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ir_cow

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Everything posted by ir_cow

  1. Hands down Divinci Reslolve
  2. I think the problem you are having is windows was installed with CMS enabled instead of the now standard UEFI mode. The simple solution is to reinstall windows with UEFI enabled instead of CMS, but I'm sure someone on the internet has a better way.
  3. I entered the Newegg Shuffle drawing for fun to see if its possible to win. Tomshardware says its more likely to win the lottery. On my 2nd attempted I was notified I won the rights to buy a AsRock RX 6900 XT Phantom D. But I declined because it was a $1899 bundle with a B550 motherboard. After taxes it would have been close to $2100 for a worthless (low end B550 motherboard) and a RX 6900 XT that scores 7% higher over a RX 6800 XT. So it's possible to win, but do you really want to? These forced bundles are stupid and newegg is artificially jacking up the price by selling you e-waste along with that you wanted to buy.
  4. The 1.21v update gave a 10-12% FPS increase for AMD 6000 series. It also adds ray-tracing which is practically unplayable with it enabled for AMD.
  5. I got both, but for a while in 2006-2012 I was exclusively console player. It just make sense to me. Its cheaper, hassle free to play games (no driver issues) and you can sell the games when your done with them. It's practically free gaming if you do it right. However the downside is your are playing at medium graphical settings and usually at 30fps. Very few console games are native 4K. 99% are upscaled from 2K or lower for the PS5 / Xbox Series X. Last gen things were upscaled to 1080P. Add in the fact that some games are not just available on the console like Counter-Strike or really any "good" MOBA. I prefer to play with controller on the PC anyways, so unless Its a game I either want to enjoy with the highest graphical settings or one that isn't on the console, I'll always pick console first. So to me paying $1200 for a video card or buying a console and getting 3 years worth a games is a easy choice. Don't buy games new and you'll have 100+ for $5-10 a piece.
  6. Yep those prices are real, but from scalpers since none of the RTX 20 series is in production anymore. Basically from what I can make out is multiple factors. Covid lockdown saw a increase in gou sales due to people staying at home / working remotely. Also because production stopped in china for a few months it finally caught up with world demand after the initial backstock ran out. Now these new generation from AMD and Nvidia has a chip shortage due to the chip making facilities at max capacity for the next 2 years. Also in the US, Trumps China import tax kicked in Jan 2021 adding 20-30% price hike as these companies arent going to eat the cost like Trump thought, instead it was passed onto the customer as most people assumed would happened. Essentially demand exceeded supply and now scalpers are taking advantages of this. Add some import tax and that's why a $800 RTX 3080 is selling for $1500+ This will continue for another few years I think. Time to switch back to console gaming.
  7. Follow people around haha. Its only fun to play with friends on discord because you can figure out their tatics.
  8. Well here is my recommendations if you were to buy today. It is really just a version of my test systems I use. What I picked is for no fuss and little to no overclocking. I have mine overclocked and memory optimized, but this is still a good starting point and more or less the best bang for your money without having to play around with memory settings and CPU overclocking. If you want a overclocking system, I got a slightly different parts list. I am a fan of G.Skill for their overclocking potential and MUCH better timings (especially for AMD Ryzen), but Corsair makes much better lighting software. I also picked 32GB of memory for future proofing. The memory costs more but I think if your going to use this system for 5+ years, 32GB is necessary unless you buy some at a later date. F1 and Drit are CPU/GPU intense in their own right, but nothing like Flight Sim. I'm what i've read, on 4K ultra settings it eats up 10GB of VRAM. Though it will scale to how much you have, just might be a lot more blurry ground area while it loads in. Second thing it seems the CPU core count is less important at 4K because your GPU is struggling to keep a steady 30FPS. Which makes the game 100% GPU bound at higher resolutions. You will probably want a RTX 3080 or RTX 3070 for DLSS support in other games as well as 35-40 FPS in Flight Sim 2020. A quick note; Intel is slated to release its new LGA 1700 socket with DDR5 in Q4 2021, while AMD is sometime in 2022 for it's new socket/CPU. Also PCIE 4.0 has no really impact gaming performance. Nothing even eats up the bandwidth of 16x PCIE 3.0 right now. Not even close. So I don't see a reason to buy Intel's 11th Gen just for PCIE 4.0 support. Its overpriced and sucks compared to the 9th and 10th gen counter-parts. The real improvement that both systems have with a BIOS update is Re-Size Bar support. AMD: AMD 7 5800X ASUS X570 HERO (This ones missing the Wi-Fi) G.Skill 3600 32GB TridentZ NEO CL16 or CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 36000 CL18 32GB For AMD you can swap it with any memory running at 3600 CL14 for best results. It can be a 10 FPS swing from CL18 to CL14 in some games. 3800 CL14 is the absolute best for Ryzen, but you will most likely not be able to boot to this without SoC voltage tweak. Above 3800 you break the Infinity Fabric 1:1 ratio and are hit with 20ns+ delay making it slower than 3000 CL18 memory. Intel: i9 10850K MSI Z490 Unify (best MB for 10850/10900K overclocking for the money. No nonsense marketing BS.) ACE model is the same but with RGB lighting. G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 4000 CL17 or ???? (Some 16GB Corsair kit??) 4000 CL15 is the most optimal settings for Intel in the cost / performance ratio. You can go up, but the memory controller voltage needs to as well. At 4000 you shouldn't have to touch the default 1.1v. Above 4400 its all manual timing setting. Most likely it will not boot with XMP without BIOS voltage tweaking. I had some luck with the MSI "Memory Try It" presents. Able to run DDR4 5000, but it took 1.6v on the memory controller, not good for daily use!
  9. Whats your buget without the GPU and how long are planning on using it before upgrading again? If you arent aware the a GPU market is 2x - 5x the price of MSRP. You can get lucky and snag something when its in stock before the bots get it, but it will take a week or so of watching.
  10. Well I was wrong about the X299 / Xeon combo. Intel dropped support for Xeon with the X299 chipset so you will need a server MB for that. The other option is to get a X99 with a 12-16 core Xeon. For about $200 total. But I think that isn't a great option because those older 2011 V3 Xeon are old and below 3Ghz. I still think a 1920X Threadripper is a good starting point strickly for video work. You can always spends more money and get more cores. IDK your budget. As far as the 3570K goes, I think that 2600K is faster because its 4core and the i5 is 2core. I don't know what kinda of video work you do or want to do. Hard to recommend hardware for editing and rendering without knowing specifically what you are trying to achieve.
  11. When upgrading from the 2nd gen intel its going to be a major difference in encoding time for video. Heck the 11th gen i3 is 4core 8 thread with a higher clock. Just switching to that would be faster. Depends on what you are doing but I don't think you can expect a 4K 10min encode to finish under 2 hours with your current CPU. Of course you can use the GPU now to offload the encoding in Adobe Premiere CC21 and Divinci Resolve 16/17. With either a dedicated video card or onboard intel graphics (with lighting shrink for Intel). But you will still run into issues where CPU encoding is necessary. If your not into overclocking or buying new stuff you could go get a Threadripper 1950x with a motherboard for $300-400 on ebay. Maybe grab a X299 Intel motherboard and buy a 18 core xeon. All cheap options that aren't good for gaming but a major step up for video work.
  12. 2400 CL11 is pretty good for DDR3 memory. I call that a win. Just make sure to validate your overclock with Memtest86.
  13. Its generally a 30-50% markup for mid-range. Ultra high end is 200%+. Once in a while I would compare what it could cost for a pre-built equivalent. What cost ms $1500 in parts is usually $2500-3500 for the pre-built. However now that GPU market is extremely outrageous, it actually might be cheaper to buy a pre-built, though I've seen complaints that Dell/Alienware will take your money for 2 months and than cancel the order for a RTX 3080 system or offer you a lower card that is in stock. As far as upgradability goes, thats a hard one. I would just watch those undercover buys on YouTube for Linus. See which one screws you the least.
  14. Thanks for the headups. Yeah its pretty bad. People selling boxes, images of boxes. Video cards with a RTX 3080 sticker on it, etc. If you do happen to be scammed. Paypal will always side with you the buyer unless the seller has 1,000 rating or higher. I found this out as a legitimate seller. People take advantage of the system. As long as you do not leave feedback, the money is locked to paypal for 30-days. This will also help you get your money back.
  15. Under $50. Probably old GTX 480s, 580s on ebay. Don't expect to play new games with them though.
  16. Can't say for sure but everything I have RMA'ed to Corsair came back new sealed in box.
  17. Ghost Recon Break Point doesn't work. I emailed NVIDIA about it during the RTX 3060 launch. I don't think it has been fixed yet. Only work around I have found is to disable Re-Size Bar.
  18. By now people have heard that NIVIDA has added support for Re-Size bar in all Ampere cards. You will need to download a vBIOS update from your cards vendor. If you have a Founders Edition, you can find the information in the link below. It it is well worth enabling this if your motherboard supports it. Easy 10-20 FPS increase in games like Borderlands 3 and AC: Valhalla to name a few. https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/news/geforce-rtx-30-series-resizable-bar-support/
  19. Hey if it works for you, thats all that matters really. I'm not brand loyal, but it takes a lot to win me back for more than a single product launch. The one thing for me is if the RMA sucks. They will never get my personal business again. Luckily Gugbayte is not on my shitlist.
  20. Or just not buy Gigbayte . After owning plenty of gigabyte boards with the last one being the Z490 Vision G, I think Gigabyte needs to take a step back and rethink how they design stuff. Maybe the Z590 is better, but the Z490 I had barely kept up at stock and failed any sort of overclocking with memory or CPU.
  21. This sounds like Intel just renamed Turbo to better fit into todays naming scheme. Trade the word Turbo for Boost. Same thing in the end. But really It doesn't effect any overclockers because we just leave it at max clocks anyways.
  22. Corsair has a good RMA. I once submitted a ticket without* a receipt. Got it replaced anyways. After receiving the new unit, I got another email saying don't forget the receipt next time.
  23. Sounds extremely unlikely. I have NEVER needed the second EPS to power the board. I have 3 computers right now running without the 4pin pluggged. The only one I use a second EPS for is MSI Z490 Unify because the 10900K usage 333 watts under maximum load. It does work with a single 8pin, I just don't like the idea of so many amps on a single cable. . Its on the same power plane and I believe the 4pin EPS has no sense pin so the MB can't even see if its plugged in. Rokkahoik, unplug that 4pin and see if it boots. I bet it will.
  24. Well I can tell you for certain that you don't need that second EPS cable (4pin) with that 10700K. It is on the same power plane as EPS-8Pin. The only reason would be if you need over 350 watts for the CPU. Even though the connector / cable could handle this, it would get warm after a bit pulling that much amps, so my rule of thumb is 250watts per 8-Pin EPS to avoid any melty wires. What I'm stuck on for this diagnosis is that once you get it to power up, it stays going. Only when the power is full cut will it do this non-booting. So I guess my follow up question would be does the motherboard turn on briefly from a cold start and power off, or noting at all until you press the power button a few times?
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