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Everything posted by ir_cow

  1. First if you haven't already, I would disable all your overclocks for the time being. I know many motherboards will also auto overclock when enabling XMP. At least my 4770K did on all the motherboards I used. It has been a number of years since I played around with it, but I still have it laying around. It was a good CPU. In any case, assuming you already checked for a high overclock / voltage that would account for 100c at idle. My next guess is if all the cores are reporting 100c, I would have to assume it is the AIO. My 100i only lasted 2 years before I RMAed it. Those old models didn't last long and its very common to find similar threads to exactly the same problem you are having. Either the pump would fail or the liquid would get so low it started to make that bubbling sound. For mine, it first started to bubble and after poking around / troubleshooting, the fans locked up at 100% RPM and I lost all control over anything in the corsair software. That was the last time I used a Corsair AIO, I sold my RMA one. Corsair and all AIOs on the market are much better now. 80c on the coolant seems really high to me, It should only be a few degrees above room ambient. Lastly I wouldn't rule out a faulty sensor, but if it downclocking due to Tj.Max, not much you can do besides override it in the BIOS. Which I strongly advise against. If one core is saying 100c and the rest is 70~, that would point to a faulty sensor. However not for all of them being at 100.
  2. Hmm. I didn't think you had another computer handy. If you haven't already, pop that GTX 1080 Ti into your dads computer if you can. When it BSOD than you know it cannot be anything else related to your system. I'm hung up on why it works after being re-seated for a few days. It is such a odd thing. I don't like telling people they have bad hardware because the amount of times I thought I had something bad over the years is a lot. Only to find out it was something really odd and unrelated. But it is starting to look that way for you. What is causing your card to fail is beyond my knowledge. I'm good at troubleshooting down to the hardware in question.
  3. Also I see you said re-seating the card is a short term solution. I'm not sure how that factors into this yet. If I was wildly guessing why this works and the card indeed is fine for X amount of time once your re-seat it in ANY PCIE slot, it could be a broken tracer. As the PCB sages and settles in over hours / days, the tracer pulls apart and that is your issue. However I wouldn't go that far just yet.... focus on one thing at a time.
  4. Sorry to hear about your troubles. Good news is i'm sure we can get to the bottom of the actual problem if its the 1080 TI or not and go from there. To rule out the power supply, just in case. Download MSI Kombustor https://geeks3d.com/furmark/kombustor/. Run it with the GTX 980 Ti. Since both cards have the same power draw at stock it will be easy to eliminate the PSU being the problem. If the GTX 980 Ti goes for 10 minutes, give the GTX 1080 TI a try. Seems like from what your describe its pretty constant on the crashing (30 seconds you say). It probably won't last that long. But keep on eye on the temps just in case. If it ends up being the GTX 1080 Ti and seeing you done all the system trouble shooting. Evening going as far to reinstall windows. The only thing left to do is run GPU-Z while stress testing and seeing if its overheating. The fan could have died, or something like that. In any case I'm afraid if its not a PSU issue, you could narrow down what is the problem, but no way to really fix it in the end.... Bad VRAM or bad Silicon can't be replaced without proper lab tools. Which leaves just some capacitors and MOSFETS that can be replaced with a soldering iron. In the event that you cannot get the GTX 1080 Ti boot long enough to trouble shoot and the GTX 980 Ti works fine, Other than new thermal paste, not much more you can do without running around with a multimeter and testing all the capacitors.
  5. The RTX 3080 Ti like the rest of the cards are extremely hard to find. I only have the Founders Edition. Without waterblock I didn't get very far. 400 Watts is a bit much for air cooling.
  6. I would normally say give the newest drivers a try but that will lower the hash-rate on the RTX 3060. Only those developer drivers can be used if you want to keep the hash-rate up. I suppose if you do not have any control over the power and since you want to go low as possible, you could create a custom frequency curve by hand. I would work, but time consuming.
  7. Hey if you didn't catch the news, AMD FidelityFX Super Resolution is out today. Only notable titles that support it right now is Godfall and Anno 1800. I'm not going to write a article on it anytime soon. Waiting for more games and a A-B image comparison would be nice as well. From what I'm reading (could turn out to be false) is that the image quality will be on a game per game basis. 1) The developer must choose internal settings to go along with the up-scaling. Embedded into the upscaler is a sharping assist. If the games normal sharping is left on, it will make a mess of the image. The work around of course is to manually disable it. 2) FSR has a multiple presets with Quality (Half Rez) and Ultra Quality (Slightly higher)being the only ones worth a use. Otherwise it is a blurry mess. 3) Personal opinion - Anything below 4K Quality is not worth running. I would lower the graphical settings first. However it depends on the screen size. If you have a 27" monitor, no worries. 65" TV, no way. At this point even without a direct comparison, I think DLSS 2.0 is the winner at this juncture. It is nice that FSR works on older cards and NVIDIA as well. Seems like only a 20% increase in FPS with the highest preset. Not the 100% uplift AMD was showing off last month. Not without losing the image in a blurry mess. Hardware Unbox has the best video so far for FSR. Give it a watch.
  8. @kitfit1 Nice score! Just the default stock boost right?
  9. ir_cow

    Mozilla Browser

    Alright I got it back to the way it looked before. I just reset to defaults, right-clicked near the toolbar and did Customize Toolbar. Took a big of fiddling, but it is pretty close to how it looked before. It still looks a bit like Chrome, but at least it isn't a Internet Explorer looking clone now.
  10. ir_cow

    Mozilla Browser

    The other option is to install the old Firefox, but than I lose security....hmm what to do.
  11. Its hard to get a monitor below $100 new. Just make sure it has VESA mounting as a lot of the basic monitors cannot be removed from the stands / no VEGA mounting holes. I don't know why, but I have come across this a lot.
  12. ir_cow

    Mozilla Browser

    Yeah I'm pissed at Firefox, my bookmarks all moved around. Maybe someone will make a old GUI.
  13. @kojack How are you liking Resolve?
  14. Looking up your memory specs it says 1600Mhz, so it is running correctly if the BIOS reports it as such. If you are getting errors in memory86 it can be a number of things. Test 5/6 is usually CPU Memory Controller issue. lack of voltage or the frequency is too high. The rest of the tests generally point to memory stability issues. First I would re-enable XMP profile and run memtest86 again. If errors still pop up. remove one stick and try each one individually. It is possible one DIMM is just bad.
  15. Update: Deleted spam and locked thread. This is old and outdated.
  16. Congrats on wining, though I'm not really sure why you switched to a AMD 6700 XT if you already have a RTX 3070. Anyways from your post it seems like you already have a Ryzen 3700X. If you are building another PC, the AMD 5600X or 5800X is a nice choice for gaming. I switched my test system from a 3800X to a 5800X and saw a 30% increase in FPS. Of course this is game dependent. Some barely saw any changes, but the Ryzen 5000 series is where it is at in terms of cost-to-performance. So I would grab a B550 Motherboard, a 5600X and some DDR4 3600 CL16 memory for that 6700 XT. You could get more out of it by switching to a 5800X and 3600 CL14 memory, but now your adding cost. Mind you this is a quick list, I'm sure you can find better deals. Newegg Ryzen 5600X MSI MPG B550 GAMING CARBON WIFI G.SKILL Trident Z Neo DDR4 3600 CL16 16GB F4-3600C14D-16GTZNB
  17. Well Ethrium coin is going to Proof of Stake this fall so that's the end of GPU mining for that. Still tons of alt coins around, but not nearly as popular. Even with the demand drop, I think it wont be until this time next year we will see prices "return" to nornal. Now AMD and NVIDIA see consumers accept paying higher prices I think the next round will be 25% higher MSRP. Just my thoughts based on the current market and the fact that TSMC is booked for the next 5 years.
  18. This is copy-pasted from a different site. My guess this one is spam bot..... https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/zen-3-5600x-overclocking.282483/
  19. Yeah I think the paid version includes HDR grading. Not sure what else it does.
  20. I'll stop you here. Do not flash laptop video cards. Just because you can doesn't mean it is a good idea. Laptop GPUs have a lower TDP for a reason. Edit: I guess I should explain more. Lots of people have read my 20 Series flash guide and applied it incorrectly to a laptop GPU. While I have been told it will work, the reason you do not want to is because of how a laptop is designed around a certain TDP. So first off your thermals will be out of control and second the VRM on those laptop GPUz are half of what a desktop card is, so you are surpassing what those MOSFETs can do. As for editing the vBIOS. Well Maxwell was the last one you could do it on. Everything since has been encrypted by NVIDIA so you cannot edit the values. Only solution is to flash another cards vBIOS (Same GPU) on to yours that has a higher TDP., thus allowing more room for a higher overclock until you reach the voltage limit. The maximum allowed voltage is the same for all the RTX 2070s (1.096v). So once again I have been told my flash guide applies to laptop GPUs, I have personally never tried it or can verify what vBIOS was used on what laptop cards. I suggest not to try unless you are done with that laptop and don't want to sell it. I think it will be a giant doorstop afterwards.
  21. Regardless if its a X or not, you are going to run into a hard wall around 4.4Ghz - All core. Top 1% can do this and it requires 1.4v. 4.3Ghz is around 1.3-1.35v. I couldn't find the actual VRM part number but it is a 4+2 design. Since its a lower end MB I would say 50 Amp stages. @1.35v It can handle upwards of 275 Watts. However that 100% load on the VRM. You would need some serious cooling on those MOSFETs. Realistically 75% is about the highest you want to go for normal use Which is closer to 200 watts output for the CPU. So in short, a nice motherboard with a beefier VRM setup would help, but you will still be limited to 4.3-4.4Ghz - All Core regardless of how much voltage you pump into it. Add in the fact you will need a good cooling setup, it is just not worth it
  22. Well Gen 2 of Ryzen has limit around 3200-3400 depending on the CPU. Luck of the draw. If you really tweak the voltages 3600 is possible, though not worth the effort and validation. But first before doing anything else I would update the BIOS to the newest. AMD has done major improvements to Ryzen AM4 platform since it was first released. I've had memory go from not bootable at all, to being top performers just from a BIOS update. If that doesn't work have 2 solutions for you. 1) Enable the XMP and than manually set the frequency to DDR4 3000 or 2) Raise the SoC voltage to 1.125v-1.150v and enable XMP.
  23. @Fight Game For the most part yeah, components these days come with a "Turbo" or "Boost" and saves a lot of headaches. Still though you can squeeze a good amount of extra performance from the CPU since those Turbo clocks are for only 1 core at a time. For graphics cards, it has been like 2-3% gain. The biggest improvement is actually getting a card with good cooling as it will auto boost the clocks fairly close to the limit and you don't have to lift a finger. For memory. Well there is a reason why XMP profiles exist. Technically anything above the rated frequency the CPU official supports is a overclocking the memory controller. So Ryzen 5000 series is DDR3 3200. Above this its a overclock on the memory controller, which is why not all memory is plug n' play and why lot of people fail to even boot with higher speed memory.
  24. Well it's never in one place that's for sure. I'll tell you right now most websites just copy and paste from the last without understanding whats really going on. A few exceptions of course. Anyways the way I learned was reading white-papers, watching and reading countless topics that could be considered really boring to some. Like last night was learning about superconductors and how less energy is lost the colder something becomes. This translates to CPU overclocking (or really any overclocking that deals with voltage). On the extreme scale the colder something is, the less voltage it will leak out, thus requiring less voltage to achieve the same results. Thats the short version of this. Next if I didnt know how it applies already, I would do experiments following this claim. After a few days of playing around I have found that watercooling has a higher overclock vs air cooling. Than you have something like memory overclocking which frankly is extremely lacking any information. Ive been reading lots of old textbooks regarding DDR and applying that to what I know elsewhere. So for the Ryzen memory article I wrote, while it is flawed in some ways, I did it all myself by testing hundreds of different settings to see if AMD DDR4 3600 "sweet spot" claim was real and how memory really was tied to the infinity Fabric. Now I wasnt the first to undercover this, but the Ryzen Gen 1 and 2 articles I read never explained the correlation very well. When Gen 3 (3000 series) came out, I just setup a experiment to see what the facts where. You aren't going to find it in one place. Best to jump on forums and ask questions. People will point you around the web or answer it directly.
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