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slayer2cool

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Posts posted by slayer2cool


  1. lol if you tight budget and cheap kits are the only way to go, i suggest getting the gigabyte galaxy watercooling kit :P much much better than your Tt Bigwater.. really :) the block is better designed :P

     

    if money is no problem, then forget all of that and get something from dangerden or asetek or swiftech :D


  2. not really 70%..there is quite a vacuum inside the heatpipes so that the fluid will vapourise at lower temperatures. as for the exact percentage, im not sure as i didnt touch on that. but you can check out some of xp-90 and xp-120 online reviews? both uses sintered heatpipes but i dont think there is a review on being horizontal and vertical..

     

    well if you want hard evidence, the one i got it from are from heat transfer books at the reference section. LOL


  3. you are required to insulate your socket area against condensation problems :P so di-electric grease, neoprene, styrofoam and all of that sort :P

     

    then you need a dedicated DC power supply to power the pelt. you cant use your current pc psu to power the pelt, it cant handle the extra load.

     

    and you need to size up your pelt correctly, if its not big enough Qmax, you wont cool the cpu well, worst if its too small and you just end up overheating both your pelt and cpu :) you need to get a pelt that is like 2-3 times the heat output of your cpu. so if your cpu will pump out 65W like my barton, you need like at least 130-180W the least. but its always been a standard for pelts to be 80W or 226W or 437W. bigger rating, you need better DC psu :D but also lower attainable temps. below ambient is the norm if your pelt is good enough.

     

    you need to decide on a way to cool the hot side of the pelt, and most common way is watercooling it. aircooling is available but not advisable cos its not worth it. its just too loud and still not cold enough. that why they have ready made pelt that has waterblock attached to them. swiftech MCW5002-AT is just one example.

     

    and you need make sure your watercooling system can handle the heat from the pelt.. using a 226W pelt, you can expect the watercooling loop to handle 300W++.

     

    lastly you need a cold plate, a copper plate that acts like a heat spreader and also helps moderate temperature changes by increasing thermal capacitance. and one last thing, pelt cooling is the most inefficient cooling method for your pc :P expect a sharp rise in electric bills man.


  4. sintered heatpipes.. can work in any positions. horizontal, vertical, side ways and stuff.. whatever position it is at, the fluid will vapourise and move up where it will cool and condense and flow back down to the heat source to be heated up again. and the fluid can be water or a mixture of water and ethanol.. or ethanol with some other stuff. it can varies.


  5. The TT biwater happens to satisfy people who do not have the money to buy competent cooling systems, and actually looks good....

    For best results, use Innovatek; the gods of cooling....

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    lol the gigabyte galaxy watercooling kit will kick Tt Bigwater anytime man :P really serious, i think having the Bigwater on a Pentium D will make it choke :D

     

    anyways, innovatek blocks sucks!! lol no offence but their block designs are flow killers!


  6. Pump, Rad, CPU, NB,GPU, Res This is how Id route the lines

     

    Rad to CPU is a must if you want best cooling. No need for a second pump if you get at least a 150gph pump to begin with or a 300 gph pump would be better.

     

    Only 1 rad is all you should need

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    doesnt really matter how you arrange the components together, it will hardly affect the temps because pump putting heat into the fluid is like negligible. as for pumps, its not just about flowarate, you need to consider pump head too and that is discharge pressure of the pump.. no point having a 500GPH pump when its max head is like 1m :P after it flow through the Storm block, the water wont be going anywhere cos it lost all its energy through the block.. need more pump head man..

     

    1 rad would be ok if its 3x120mm or perhaps it be a tight call if he uses a 2x120mm. but you have to see that he is cooling 2 6800GT, a NB and the cpu. tonnes of heat going into the water. so yeah i play it safe with at least a 3x120mm rad if he wants to keep just 1 rad.. though adding another rad wont cause that much of a pressure drop.

     

    actually vampire, why not just have 1 3x120mm rad??


  7. I was thinking of going with a setup like this. All the work is done and all I have to buy is the water block for the cpu. The price will still be under $400.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16835127007

    Any pros or cons to the koolance setup?

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    the koolance setup is pricey for a setup kit, i think with that money, you can get the Swiftech Extreme kit. performance wise, its ok, it delivers and its quite plug and play which aids in ease of installation. but its not the best out there :)


  8. well the order i recommend is just changing it abit so that the reservoir is before a pump and that's it.. :)

     

    im not so sure about the extra pump though.. need to do some fluid mechanics and calculate the exact pump head loss :D

     

    edited: ok i did some simple calculations but im not so sure what is the exact pressure drop for the 2 NV-68 blocks so i just assumed it. from what i can gather, if you are using the mcw655, you definetely 2 of these cos the total pump head needed would exceed the 3.1m max head of the mcw655. but it should work if you just use a single mcw350 :D but of course flowrate is like nearly 4 times as small.


  9. ya its ok cos it wont really affect performance but just imagine how you gonna fill up your loop with cooling water.

     

    you fill up the reservoir with water, the water must flow through the big rad and only until the pump is primed properly, then you can start the pump. if not the pump will just run air inside the chamber and it wont pump much water.

     

    to prime the pump is to get rid of the air inside the pump and filling it up with water before starting it. its easier if the reservoir is before the pump. just place the reservoir higher than the pump, and fill it up with water.. the water will flow down and into the pump, pushing the air out.


  10. ah the famous NV-68 block :P i wont say its bad or good :P i would just say its not worth the money since i assumed you're kinda tight on budget :) the dangerden maze4 SLi block is about half of the price for the NV-68 Sli block!!

     

    i cant really find many NV-68 reviews that are appropriate..but from what i can gather, having it as compared to the stock cooler wont really improve your ram overclockability by much...cos the purpose of the block is to push the ram further!

     

    ok the rams are GDDR3 rams meaning, they are meant to be cooler..what i dont like about a single block for gpu and rams is because, the gpu can get soo hot, the heat can spill onto the cool rams.. but water has high heat capacity so im not so sure if the problem still presist :P

     

    though the nv-68 sli eliminates tube kinking problems between the 2 blocks. :P but i still prefer just using a normal gpu block and just use big butt ramsinks for the rams :D saves me some money man.

     

    finally yeah, the order is ok but i prefer the pump to be after the res so you wont have trouble filling up the system .


  11. well if you get the swiftech apex kit right, you can place the pump and res in the case itself. the rad will just be outside the case at the back using the rad box.. which mind you is the best position to place your rad IMO.

     

    better GPU block than the koolance would be the swiftech mcw50 or dangerden maze4.. but if you intend to SLi your card, then you need to get the danderden maze 4 Sli ready block. i dont know if you can sli using the mcw50.

     

    as for chipset and hdd blocks.. since your platform is a A64, there isnt much point in watercooling them.. really its just wasting money :P


  12. It isn't too overclock better, it is to make sure it is a stable overclock ;)

     

    edit: and isn't 24 hrs a bit to long? I don't think you will ever have your comp under full load for that lonk  :glare:

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    lol is it? i got it wrong :P hahaha ok then, yeah! 24 hours on Prime 95 is the nominal time :) mostly if the OC is quite small then 12-16 hours would do for me.. but if its higher, 24 hours to a week :D


  13. d00d the porsche 944 is my fav porsche car!! :D

     

    anyway some of your ideas are good but not good for watercooling beginners :)

     

    well the idea of chilling your cooling water is good! but you will have problems with condensation and that will make his life harder..

     

    the idea of using bigger big butt rad is good too! but you need more space and bigger pumping capability for that which also make his life harder..

     

    but really, if he really finds it difficult the first time, vampire_1117 can get the koolance kit..its a good kit to start with i guess.. though slightly pricey :P


  14. Hmmm.....I might have to consider this. It even matches my color scheme. Tell me that wouldn't look tight in here:

     

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    lol the tip of the heatsink fan is painted green!! haha niceee :D and i think it be nice..

     

    lol honestly, alot of pumps from different brand are like the same!! laing, DD, Polarflo, Swiftech bla bla.. some of the models are like the same!! if i can, i just stick to normal aquarium pump which are cheaper :D

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