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Miata rebuild thread v. 2015 {UPDATED FOR 2016}

ICANHASTURBO slow car

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#13 Waco

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 04:18 PM

It really needs to get back on the road!  The weather is getting nicer every day...
10974253_10101865521117648_6527501904093
 
Pan is off, plus the cheap head gasket (glad I'm replacing it, it already looks rough after only 3k miles)...
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Box 'o parts!
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The leak came from exactly where I expected (front of the pan, near the oil pump).  Easy to fix. :)
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Now I need to drill/tap the pan, clean up the head/block, and get the ARP studs installed.  Thankfully tomorrow is a holiday!

Tolerance is a sign of weakness.

#14 RHKCommander959

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 09:03 PM

MMMmmm forced induction :woot:

 

Cold ram-air intake to go with the turbo? The less restrictions before and after the turbo, the faster she'll spin up. Also if it isn't too late, you could ceramic coat the manifold and up pipe. Keeps more heat in to drive the turbine, and less heat under the hood = more efficient

 

Space is probably tight, if you are pushing higher boost levels you could cool the charged air with a water-to-air intercooler if an air-air wont fit, and/or water/methanol injection :devil:


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#15 Waco

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 09:12 PM

It's a short ram with a cold air box. :)

 

The manifold is cast iron, it'll hold plenty of heat. :P  The turbo bolts directly to it, so the path from exhaust valves -> turbo is about 6"-8".

 

The intercooler isn't huge, but should do the job.  Shooting for 12 PSI to start...then as things break I'll start bumping things up. :lol:


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#16 Waco

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 09:51 AM

Also, turns out my goal is 16 PSI relative thanks to my altitude.  All my tuning is absolute pressure based, so while the turbo will work harder up here, the power level should be the same as at sea level. :lol:


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#17 dr_bowtie

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 09:59 AM

1-piece oil pan gasket?


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#18 Waco

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 10:12 AM

No gasket at all, it just uses sealant between the block, windage tray, and the pan.  There are small half-moon gaskets at each end, but they're only 15% of the area or so.


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#19 dr_bowtie

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 01:18 PM

I'd leave those out too....

 

on engine that make pressure this is how i do it. more so because the engines see constant rpm and that makes bolts come loose or fall out lol.

 

I either use Adhesive silicon or you can use Right-Stuff. the later will be harder to pull the pan and clean the surfaces.... it wont leak.

 

depending I will put a 1/8-1/4 inch bead on the rail making circles around the bolt holes. I put a good bead on the end trying to make sure it doesnt squish inside the pan when set. Takes time to judge it.

 

I will set the pan but not tighten it. just set it on the silicon and press a little to give it a firm seal. usually a 1/8 gap or little less. I will usually start a couple corner bolts to hold the pan solid. then i fill the ends if they arent full.

 

 I'll let the silicon set usually over night then snug the bolts.... trim excess and and seal with a fine bead of silicon using my finger to blend it to the mating surfaces.

 

 the reason we've always done this as using sealant then tightening the pan you squish it all out and there is no room for flex... if you rpm it it will flex and break the thin seal and leak eventually.

 

makes a bear to get the pan off but it doesnt leak....

 

one of the guys we had with a truggy type offraod vehicle wouldnt do a bolt check and after i sealed his pan we went all season.... came back missing 12 of the 16 bolts and it never came loose. sometimes people dont check their stuff well enough ha ha.


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#20 Waco

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 01:30 PM

Well the half-moons are a good 1/4" thick or so.  They're pretty mated to the block at this point, I'm actually not removing them.

 

I'm planning on actually following directions to put the pan on this time with a good 1/4" bead of sealant all the way around.  Last time I got in a hurry and cranked down the pan bolts barely 15 minutes after putting on the sealant...so it all squished out. :lol:

 

 

This block and pan are incredibly strong, flex usually isn't a problem - I'll definitely have a larger gap than last time though, since last time it was basically nonexistent. :P


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#21 Puck

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 01:38 PM

I second "The Right Stuff", its the only thing that will hold a seal on the rear intake "china wall" of an LT1 smallblock. Ask me how I know  :doh: .


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Wow, puck just kinda summed that one up for most of us lol. I agree with puck. :)

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#22 Waco

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 01:51 PM

Ordered a 2-pack of 5 oz. tubes.  I was going to use Permatex black, but this looks much better. :)


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#23 dr_bowtie

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 03:33 PM

if you have to really seal an intake to keep it from blowing out you have other issues..... way to much internal pressure. Most of the times I've seen it they vent the breathers too small and when you seal the intake it blows the breather out.

 

 both covers should have open tubes to a catch can.... with good ring seal you should have minimal internal pressure but on boosted apps i set the rings pretty loose because under boost cylinder pressure spikes and rings will pinch shut.

 

 I'll set ring gaps at  .0065 x's bore size for boosted apps. looser on the 2nd ring yet.

 

 

I use sealant in Caulk gun form.... I do so many LOL I usually use permatex blue or GE blue...


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#24 Waco

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 05:54 PM

Out with the old and in with the new:

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I bent the hell out of the old one playing with it before I pulled it out.  Such a POS. :lol:


Tolerance is a sign of weakness.