i think its got style.

and we were all a n00b in our own time, right Caebron?
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26805
/burn

oh, and look at all the other threads you've started..

http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=n00b3yi.jpg

/nooob :shake:

Stay on topic !

Heres my rig in sig

nothin special just thought id post it up

and yes my room is messy









Yes I know blurry pics lol but my hands just shake constantly

must be the caffeine

Id love some constructive criticism :nod:

puter would look so much nice with out all the wires and stuff

Easy on the caffeine

Did any of you guys running the Antec Super LanBoy change the low speed 120mm fans or somehow got them to flow at 12v? Great setup for both of you. Very very nice, great job.

Note: The reason i'm asking is that i'm lacking the knowledge of how to change fan speed. I know it's easy to hook them up to a fan controller and blah blah, but these 120mm (two) are not doing a good job and was wondering if i can get them both to speed up to 2000 or just go and buy two new fans and junk these. Any ideas...

Well the biggest wire issue is the molex/floppy for my board

Im in the process of making another one so im able to hide it because my current one isn't long enough to reach my cd and be hidden from sight lol

and I could easily hide the wires form my xp90 but im just lazy lol

it's really alot cleaner in r/l then it looks

just my bad camera skillz

heres some pics of wire mods for your fans if i read your thread right

oh btw i wasn't commenting on your case looks quite neat more the room i've got wires and leads runnig all over the place gonna kill myself one day

You can pick up a molex pin remover then move the pins to the appropriate position.

I changed my 120mm exhaust fans to intake fans on the Antec P160 and SuperLanAlterBoy. There are more than enough holes in the chassis to vent the air.

Changing the rear fan to intake dumps room air right onto the RAM and CPU. It did wonders for my temp without changing the fan speed.

-=UPDATE-=

Yes, i'm putting a 120mm intake fan on the side case window because i know the difference it will make. I have to use my dremel and mount the fan on the window. Thank you for your suggestions. Specially the guy that has picks of the mods, thank you. So it's just the black and yellow/red 12v/5v wires i'll need eh? The 120mm fan has thin red/black wires and it's like this..

from 120mm fan to 12v PSU
1- red (thin wires) to yellow (thick wires)
2- black(thin wires) to black (thick wires)
3-empty
4-empty

So it's going to the 12v, but the fan seems low speed. It's because of the current that the wire can produce? Thick 12v yellow wire going to thin 5v wire doesn't make any sense. Color doesn't matter anyway, but the reason must be the thickness of the PSU yellow wire that can't produce enough current to go through the thin red wire to the 120mm fan. What can i do, i'm curious now...

Okay i'm sort of confused about the difference of 5v, 7v, and 12v. 5v is red, 7v, you got the red wire to yellow and the black to red? 12v seems the same how i have it hooked up, but the molex cable that i'm using from the 520 Modstream has only one wire of each, yellow, black, black, red. The picture that has the connection for 12v, has two wires of each, wtf?

Wire gauge has nothing to do with volts; it has to do with the amps. Smaller wire gauges don't require more current to "push it through"; what happens is smaller gauge wires can't tolerate as much current (amps) because there isn't enough conductive mass to distribute the current evenly, and the wire begins to dissipate excess current as heat. This is called resistance. If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough resistance to cause a problem. I doubt that tiny motor could ever draw enough current to cause a problem. In fact it's almost impossible. But just to make sure, is the wire getting hot?

Red is 5v, yellow is 12v, and black is ground.

5v: red to red and black to black. This is the standard configuration.

7v: red to yellow and black to red. Connecting the fan's ground to a hot wire seems counterintuitive to me, but apparently it works.

12v: same as 5v, except you change the supply from the 5v red wire to the 12v yellow.

The reason there are two wires going into each pin on the molex is because the other wire is going to another molex; it's still the same thing though.

I don't know, but the 120mm fan says 12v .27amps. So there is no way from pushing it from 1200rpm to 2000rpm? I got another fan that's still in the box that takes 12v .38amps 2000rpm. So the wires are connected fine, the fan just won't allow it, right? You know what i'm trying to do is set the 120mm fans (intake and exhaust) from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, but i don't think they will run that fast or could it, and how?

Well, whatever speed it runs at on your PSU's maximum voltage is as high as you're going to get it I'm afraid.

cheers :cool: It's taken a bit of effort to get it finished. :sweat:

BTW It appears that MBM reads a couple (approx 4 degrees) lower for the Expert(Venus) board than it read on the SLI-DR, but the temp in the PC Health check of the BIOS on both motherboards appeared to be correct.

But it's effen huge .. it looks neat but it would need it's own postcode

btw, what did you make it out of exactly?

Kind of true .. the wire resistance won't change for the same length and differing thicknesses ... what will change is the dissipated power from increased current flowing through the same resistive load. A wire might handle 5A as it's thickness allows it to dissipate the power generated (in heat) from the resistance in the wire. You double the current then you are doubling the power generated through resostive loss in the wire (the resistance of the wire has not changed significiantly the current has!!) You were right up until the comment "If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough resistance to cause a problem." This should read "If the wire's not getting hot then there isn't enough current to cause a problem."

:angel:

It works because Voltage is also known as "Potential Difference" Earth or 0v is purely relative to your reference.. you get 7v because the 5v is your fan negative (most cases it is ground or earth but not this one) and 12v is your posative the potential difference then for current to flow is 12v-5v which =7v potential for current to flow.

In that case the only way to increase RPM is to increase voltage which could kill the fan.

Er never do this... please .. this will cause you a world of hurt, dead PSU, possibly motherboard and anything else that is electrical in the computer .. if you touch the 12v to the 5v it is the same as shorting out the rails. not a good idea.

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...ht=Fan+Question

Please discuss there!?

Can a Mod move the relevant posts plz

[QUOTE]But it's effen huge .. it looks neat but it would need it's own postcode

btw, what did you make it out of exactly

the main frame is made out of square all tubing called qubelok can get in melbourne comes in 6metre lengths and just cut it to size then get the nylon joiners and hammer them into place the rest is ally angle from the suppliers that i got the tubing and perspex

How thick is the perspex?? That stuff is damned heavy, I made the rear wall of my Sub Box in the car out of 12mm perspex and it was not light

the perspex is 6mm which is the same as the lip/shelf on the framework

Guys - keep it on topic here. If you want to discuss casebuilding/psu voltages fine, but make a thread somewhere else for it.

/thread cleaned

I was confused for a second, but perspex is plexiglas, right? It's kind of heavy but not as heavy as steel. I'm actually building a computer case out of it, though I might use metal trim and stuff. I would think a sheet of it is about as heavy as you'd expect it to be.

Well PSU voltages is one thing, but isn't this the case thread? Well anyway, whatever you say haha

No, It's actually the case "picture" thread.

i know i'm new here but isn't that a bit fussy are we just ment to go oww err isn't that nice and not ask how they got the job done

Eh, you're not going to win haha. I would think a thread like this is for exchanging ideas on case building and not just showing off, but I've learned not to argue with the mods. If you want you can make your own thread about your case, I'd love to know more about it. :nod:

i did a little while ago
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49574

Heres my rig, shes still kind of a work in progress... hoping to switch to WC soon and get rid of the blue orb, although its a great cooler. Just sleeved the psu, it turned out ok.

It looks cold (like ice)... in a good way.

Soon to be DFI inside












Other then that, im gone change the Fans to UV Orange ones and a Orange glow by day s-ata cable to finish it of.

Enzyme, You got pm.

original fan on the sink....



now, fans on the side...tis better

looks good Enzyme

enzyme just curious is there legroom on that desk? looks like it's just full of drawers. but nonetheless very nice.

function, nice lil windowm mod you might want to get a filter tho if one of those fans are intakes.

oook


i just took these pics of the current build in my sig, but the camera is pissing me off and honestly it is time to get a real digital cam as mine is about 3 years old and my patience is wearing thin...

Looks familiar Happy. What CPU block are you using?

thats a DangerDen tdx block but it has a chrome universal top so it will fit every single cpu socket type.

Thats a nice looking setup Happy.

Well anyway there sure is a lot of room in that case.

What's that on the bottom of the case? I'm talking about that slightly raised platform.

What I want to know is,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811125444

That's my old case only mine had a different bezel. What's that purple thing on the bottom on the inside of the front panel? Not the fan mount, that bracket thing with a bunch of holes on it.

Nice one, where is that reflection of dice coming from Happy?

LOL nevermind, it's time for bed, or new glasses those are mounting holes, aren't they?

Downloaded one of your photos to look at the exif data to see what you are shooting with. You do well with what you have, but you will be happier with an upgrade. Digital cameras are like computers in a way. Outdated in a blink of an eye, tho I think the technology is slowing down a bit now. A digital camera worth big bucks today is worthless in two years.

Here is a decent place to read reviews on everything from simple point and shoots to pro bodies. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/

I have to wonder, since I’ve had a few water leaks in vehicles over the years, if you ever worry about a hose breaking inside your case? Would probably destroy the whole system in a blink of an eye I’m guessing.

I've grown tired of this camera a long time ago. Not because it takes shitty pics (it takes fantastic pictures if you know how to set it and I've spent a lot of time setting it to work properly!). But because 6-10 pics and the batteries are done. Need recharged. Even brand new Titanium Energizers or supa-special Duracells die within 10-20 pics. That's just how it is.








takes all kinds of pics but the batteries just don't last, and my brother's Olympus is loads better (but I can take better pics with my cam because I know how to adjust it and his I don't have a clue since I don't really mess with it)



anyway...I'll be looking for a cam that has at least 3mp but more than that, a lithium-ion battery I think like my bro's who can take a zillion pics on a charge. And it has to have excellent Macro mode since I end up taking a lot of macro pics...and it must be able to take decent pics when holding it in my hand as I have shaky hands and my current cam has zero tolerance for that (it's tripod-or-bust baby!)




well, i have a post somewhere i thought in the NF3 section but i cant find it...but I've had leaks before and they are always because of my error, not from faulty equipment.

I use non-conductive fluid...or regular distilled water and some Xerex...I just don't worry...worrying is for women and last I checked my toes have hair so that means I aint got time to worry

once you go watercooling (and once you got CM Stacker case!) you won't ever want to go back

Something with a lithium-ion battery would be a good idea. All point and shoot cameras are hard on batteries as they are running everything all the time. Zooming the lens, auto photo review, among other things going on all the time, but having two batteries so that you always have one charged up is a good idea. The first dSLR I bought, and still own, will easily shoot 600 photos on one charge. The cost of a dSLR has come down, and they have got better, just like computers, but they get expensive cause you end up wanting this lens and that lens.

Like I said, I think you do well with what you have, but there is nothing like a new camera to learn and play with.