Click to view attachment
Completed this case with 20.1 inch Viewsonic widescreen internally wired, keyboard internally wired, and wireless mouse and network.
More pics on my worklog at saxxon.net

the goodies inside are:

Saxon Computers Hemmed LCD Case with Keyboard Slide
4 Honeycomb Flow Straighteners from Saxonpc.com
GIGABYTE GA-965QM-DS2 LGA Q965 Express Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
eVGA GeForce 8800GTS 320MB Superclocked PCI Express Video Card
Western Digital Raptor X WD150GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive
HIPER HPU-4B580 12V v2.2 580W Power Supply
OCZ Platinum 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 (loaner chip employee benefit)
ViewSonic's 20.1" VX2025wm widescreen LCD
HIPER HCK-1S18- Silver Slim Clavier Keyboard
Sony NEC Optiarc 18X DVDSATA Model AWG170S-B2
AeroCool TURBINE 1000 120mm Fan
LINKSYS WRT54GL Wireless-G Broadband Router
HAWKING HWUG1 USB 2.0 Wireless-G Adapter with Removable Antenna
ALTEC LANSING Speakers
Logitech 931379-0403 Cordless Notebook Mouse
Fieon Digital HYN104-BLU 4-Port Hub

Click to view attachment
With the CD player open and mail up,
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Difficult to film the LCD with clarity, any tips?
Click to view attachment

That looks slick.

Do you have any progress shots of it? And where does the keyboard come out of?

By the way, I see that you are new, welcome to OCC!

pretty sweet. Would have liked to see more pics of the actual build process though. Excellent work though.

That's great. That's one of the most functional all-in-one computers I've seen in awhile. Do you take that to lan parties? And welcome to OCC!

nice. I like it.

by the way, I went to your site and saw the pink computer, I was afraid at first, but then I saw that it was for breast cancer awareness, so that's cool.

btw, welcome to occ, don't touch the lammas

Very nice...!!!

Yes please tell me you have more pictures.

or more accurately http://saxxon.net/

Thanks for the welcome and great feedback. I am new to the site so I will upload some more pictures. With some build shots:
Click to view attachment
there is a shot of the hardware before the monitor goes in, and here is a shot of the Nanaboshi connectors I have used so no ugly MB connections are visible.
Click to view attachment

The large door at the bottom is the keybord door, it is magnetically locked shut and has roller hinge to keep it in place while transporting.
Click to view attachment

the edges of the plixiglass is cut to 45 degrees so there is only one visible seam.
Click to view attachment

Here is a side shot of of the dual turbine fans with the keyboard open.
Click to view attachment

Here is a shot of the frame only. the frame had to have a 8 degree tilt for the LCD or it would glare too much.
Click to view attachment

The incoming air travels through this wide angle diffuser and settleing chamber to ensure the PC hardware and LCD never share heat.
Click to view attachment
The diffuser is a 120mm replica of this diffuser with vanes at NASA Ames research center.
Click to view attachment
The settling chamber is a honeycomb flow straightener from saxonpc.com, I will write to OCC and see if they are interested in doing a review of these parts. This cases uses 4 flow straighteners very effectively.

wow. just wow

Thanks for the comment. Most the "all-in-one" PC's I google searched last year either had poor components, terrible upgrade possibilities and just did not have a look I liked. This case was made so any panel can be removed without loosing stability, and to be eaasily transported and opened for cleaning/ upgrades. So far I love the portability. Since there is only 1 AC plug it can go in any room and start up instantly. I have not taken it too far yet, but once the novelty wears off , I will be taking it gaming quite a bit.

Leave the poor man alone about touching those lammas's!
but seriously don't touch them

and btw thats a fricken sick case!!!

Looks pretty nice, I like the "All-In-One" theme...

Just beautiful. Did you make the frame yourself?

I was afraid too when my sister first asked me to make her a pink PC. I said no way am I making a pink one! Then she asked to make it Breast Cancer Awarness for my mom, who has since passed away. So I really had no choice but to make it for that reason. It has 1400 pieces of acrylic rhinestones on it and I really liked the challege of making the Gucci watch replica clock.

Yes, I got the aluminum from Metal Superstore. Then I drilled out the holes for tapping, then I drilled out holes every cm to lighten the whole frame. Then it was welded together. I had to make a frame because the LCD had to have a 8 degree tilt on the front or it would glare.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I will just start here sharing my worklog pics: Here is a pic of just the screw holes tapped:
Click to view attachment
There are no phillips screws on this case, it is all done with button head allens. to look similar to WWII warcraft rivets.
Click to view attachment

The design is based on looking at cases on Newegg and thinking I had seen a case with a LCD in it, but it was just LED lighting.
Click to view attachment
Then I thought I wanted my 20.1 inch widescreen in a case, and internally wire or go wireless with everything. I had been thinking about how to avoid ever seeing a pink parallel port on a case again so I started making designs:
Click to view attachment
I started with a wooden frame to see if this was even going to be possible. Oddly the wood frame cost the same as the aluminum. It seemed as though it would work, but a wood frame PC is not what I wanted, I thought about erector set parts, but that would label the case erector set and may not hold the weight.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
It wasn't long before mother nature and my friend Barry confronted me with the fact that this was going to be a heatbox for sure. And I could not let the PC hardware and LCD "share heat". Without 8 fans I felt challenged to make this work quietly as it sits on the desk. So I spent a few weeks reading about fluid dynamics, air movement and of course wind tunnels, the highest study of fluid movement I could find. Windtunnel Design
I could not find a PC with any "wind tunnel" cooling really, lots of claims to have one with massive fans, but nothing with the simple building blocks of a true pressure tunnel. I liked many of the pictures I had seen from NASA Ames research tunnels, so I made a few replicas for testing.
This is a wide angle diffuser with vanes at NASA in San Jose. I really liked the look of this.
Click to view attachment
I made a 120mm replica which works as good as it looks:
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

This 15,000HP fan at NASA was definatly inspiring, I looked for a while before deciding on Turbine fans. They had the best resemblence at the 120mm size:
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The next step after the diffuser is the settling chamber. This consist of a open space to build kinetic energy. Then a honeycomb flow straightener. This I could not find at Wal-Mart so I had to make one. 458 drinking straw pieces later I had a very strange looking part.
Click to view attachment
This I thought may of been a waste of a few hours. So I blew on my hand and then through this part and was totally awestruck. This thing had aligned my breath to be more powerful. I wish I was smart enough to think of this from just reading, but after holding this thing I though. If this can align 3 MPH breath, and 200-300MPH wind in a tunnel, I am strapping this directly to a 120mm fan. This was more impressive than before. The cells capture and propel the air 2-3 times faster. I will show more pics later on, but there are 4 honeycombs in this case to keep it cool with only the 2 fans.
I also sell these now in aerospace grade aluminum at saxonpc.com to be used directly on the fans.

Click to view attachment

To make the keyboard work I put it on dual drawer slides. And made these mounting brackets.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I wanted to make the front panel look like WWII aircraft gauges from the game WWII Online.
Click to view attachment
I had build this Gucci watch replica clock in my last build, and I really liked the battery powered clock keeping time when the PC was off. So I chose this digital clock with room temperature.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
This was one of the first parts to begin the panel which includes: hour meter, room temp, fan/temp/volume bus, date, time, compass and many toggle switches for lighting and one for reset switch.
I toyed with the idea of making other aircraft gauges or buying them, but a slip gauge or artificial horizon is too expensive or difficult to replicate. An ammeter or volt meter would of been nice, but I ran out of real estate quickly.

Damn, that's freaking insane....in a good way. Fueler finally has some worthy competition.

Click to view attachment
The CDdrive probably did not need to be painted, but I like tinkering with CD drives
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I wanted the drive to have an aluminum door and not plexi.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The clock is a weather station also. I had to disassemble it to drill and tap the plastic frame to mount into the case.
Click to view attachment

You can see the CD door being tried on another case. I bought a $10 case to get the on and reset buttons because it was cheaper than buying the buttons themselves. And I could get the hardware running while I worked on other things.
Click to view attachment
The most difficult part of this project was the front bezel. This houses the CD, keyboard, an hour meter, clock, fan bus, many switches and a compass. On paper this seemed very easy. I had to cut 54 holes onto this 19 1/2 x 4 inch piece of plexi. This took many hours of measuring and mock up of the parts.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The keyboard door I also wanted aluminum. and overkill of screws for a military look.
Click to view attachment
The hinges are for a jewlery box I believe, I got them from Rockler. Also a small pic of my least favorite part of any project, automotive or modding. Grinding screws shorter. I don't really enjoy that much.
Click to view attachment

The keyboard door took a little work on paper to get the specifics down with little room.

Click to view attachment

The monitor I had planned to make an acrylic stand for it. But I lost the stock stand screw holes because I removed the back skin. So instead I drilled holes in the silver "bump ring" so it could be screwed right to the front acrylic panel, this worked out better for airflow.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Then once the paper was off the acrylic, 17 allen screws held it firmly to the acrylic panel. I could not find button head allens 1 inch long so I had to use cap screws.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The monitor on switch is a rubber nipple. This was the only button of 4 I brought through the acrylic. In a year I never touched the other buttons, and the fan bus has volume control. As the speakers run from the LCD amp. (for now, I may add the 2.0 amp it had with the speakers.)
I figured it was 4 screws and the Viewsonic would fall right apart. Oh boy this thing was snapped together tight. They must have a specialty tool in the factory for seperating these quickly.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Here is a shot showing the slope of the frame, without this angle the LCD would glare or you would want to tip the case constantly.
Click to view attachment
Here is a shot from the top as it starts going together. All the wires pass through a desk button so it would be easier to seal the "PC box" from the ""keyboard/control box". You can also see the Western Digital HDD with window. I really like this product.
Click to view attachment
All the outside acrylic is 1/8 inch thick. But this center acryilc that the drives and PSU mount too is 1/4 inch thick.

The hard drive was the warmest part on this build when running, so I put a few strips of plastic honeycomb under the drive to draw in air. This cools the drive well without weight or moving parts.
Click to view attachment
I never wanted to see another pink serial port or PS2 ports on my projects. And once you get Windows running I never use any of those ports. I looked at MIL connector but the cost is high. I saw these Nanaboshi connector on a wafer prober at Intel and found a vendor that sells them. It was $30 for the parts and shipping, but looks so much better than a C13 AC connector. These were really easy to solder in , and the AC splits in the inside at this port for the PSU and monitor.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
2 weeks ago I was at the NASA Ames research center, on the mock shuttle in the visitors center I was looking at the PC on the shuttle, it uses similar connectors:
Click to view attachment
I went to NASA to see the wind tunnel. I was told since 911 no one see's anything. I could not see the cool side like in this pic:
Click to view attachment
But I did get to see the far side, this structure may be my next mod theme. Look at that exhaust port, gorgeous. Here is a shot of the fans on the inside, I almost went with a "wall of fans" like this using ivory/brick colored fans. note the people standing under fan#3.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Here are some super close up's of the front bezel

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

The USB port is used for the game joystick port, the keyboard and the wireless mouse. This was disassembled, the wires were cut to fit, and then drilled and tapped the case so it could be screwed onto the case acrylic
Click to view attachment
I did not want to have to tip the case to pick it up, so after looking at chrome pulls for a while on google I decided on these door pulls from the shipstore.com. they had the best look and mounting for what I needed.
Click to view attachment
Each drive had to hang or be mounted on the acrylic so I had to make a few brackets. Here is the speaker grills, HD mounts, fan bus and CD mounts and lifting handle backing plates.
Click to view attachment

The PSU was a big challenge, these things take a lot of real estate. And most of that is fans. After some testing airflow patterns I removed both fans from the PSU. The input fan in replaced with a plastic flow straightener, and the output cavity is attached to the lower 120mm case side fan.
Here is a pic of the top of the Hyper PSU with the honeycomb replacing the input fan. And the black wire out is the internally wired AC that runs to the Nanaboshi connectors:
Click to view attachment
Here you can see the cavity output of the PSU and the honeycomb over the components. The 120mm fan actually has the dead spot over the mass of the biggest heatsink.
Click to view attachment

Here is a picture with smoke showing what this is doing.
Click to view attachment
Again on paper having a panel of switches sounded neat, but wiring up a panel of switches is not that fun,
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
With every part off the frame it does take a lot of room.
Here is where I internally wired the PSU:
Click to view attachment

Seeing your whole process is sweet

Nice worklog dude!

Thanks, this worklog is starting to look better than my own website worklog, but Geocities is not very cooperative.
And this worklog is in some type of logical order, unlike the actual build process and endless lists of "next priorities" I had to make, or the mountain of parts that actually went into this case which only seemed to make sense as a final product.
I figured I spent about 400 hours making parts, 100 or more hours daydreaming and writing on paper. I have several saws, but the most precision tool I have, which built ~70% of this case is my hand file:
Click to view attachment

Here we go with some more pictures:
The MB, I really like the chrome look of the OCZ memory.
Click to view attachment
The CPU is a "loaner chip" from Intel. All Intel employees get a free chip every year. Loaner means you give it back if you quit or leave within the year. I get another core 2 Duo in December. the chips do not meet the thermal envelope for E6700 but they packaged them anyway for the employees. In the P4 days this was bad news, but Conroe runs cool.
Click to view attachment
And after many hours of testing CPU's with a honeycomb, this runs a 1/4 inch slice of the stuff between the fan and heatsink.
Typically on the P805D I tested on with stock heatsink, this honeycomb configuration drops the CPU 5-7 degrees C. And the temp drop from high to low load is 25 seconds VS. 1 minute 45 seconds with stock fan only. In this case the air cannot travel more than 3 inches without hitting a planned event.
Click to view attachment
I found some Paint sketches I did to see how the wiring would work out. It seemed like a challege to make it work:
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And this one is a little more reserved looking than the acrylic, I now want an aluminum case like this. With a matching panel for the LCD, then when it is not being used, it won't even look like a PC station.
Click to view attachment
Besides what was running in the "start up" case, all this had to go in.
Click to view attachment
The protective cover for the LCD is critical, You don't want to get to the LAN party and have a big scratch on your screen , or have it damaged in transport. This cover cost $8 to make and if it get scratched no biggie. I will make a blue one too soon. I have enough blue acrylic left over to remake the whole case. Here are the hinge pieces and the light blue pieces I made to hang the cover. These were cemented on:
Click to view attachment
Once the hardware started going in, the wires were a mess, every wire is usually long enough to wrap around the case. Almost every wire got cut and soldered except the DVI and 20 pin.
Click to view attachment
Many wires had to pass through the button, the fan bus had alot of wiring. For volume, fans, power, thermal probes. Also you see the Volume PCB for the bus.
Click to view attachment
Most the wires I tried to run through these trusses, they are from a toy firetruck, but they served a good purpose here and helped to clean up the wires.
Click to view attachment

I am making another diffuser today to run under the one I have. The video card and PSU and still saying "feed me", now that I have it all running I can ascertain this is effective, but a second diffuser would benefit the whole system.

Getting the monitor in there is a tight fit, and it's a juggling act to get the monitor panel on the frame, a few screws placed and started by yourself.
Click to view attachment
As you can see, it is very tight quarters inside when everything is in place. None of this had been tested with the monitor yet, it was all just figured on paper with my second most precision tool, a ruler.

Click to view attachment
I did get hardware running on another monitor for testing before I put the LCD in, this did raise my blood pressure a bit just seeing it work for the first time. And I had cut a ton of wires and removed the PSU fans, I was not sure if the PSU would sense that and have problems. Not thermally but with the 3 wire fan connections. Here the PSU fan is running on a 9volt battery.

Click to view attachment
This is probably my favorite panel, with the dual Turbine fans. I am upgrading the lower fan to a Turbine 2000, since it is on a bus it looses some power, and the 2000 will give me more control.
Click to view attachment
This pic you can see inside well, and how the monitor is situated, some pics are diufficult to see the monitor. And the plexi reflects everything. I have alot of pics that are just a mirror of the background. Hard to see the PC at all.
Click to view attachment
Here is another pic of items on the front panel. The "ON" button, the CCFL switch, the reset toggle, I put a MIC in there but have not tested it yet. The monitor "ON" switch, The fareinheight/celcius button for the room temp and the thumbscrews for the LCD cover, these have to be replaced if you remove the cover as it can breath air from these holes.
The panel seperation is the spot where the LCD panel and the front bezel panel meet. There is only one frame piece in this spot so they could not share the frame. I had planned all along to have the front bezel screwed on, and cut each to an angle where they could overlap and the lower panel would be holding the LCD panel in place. This did not work out well to seal the panels for air, so I placed a strip of aluminum across the gap. I like how it looks and it was much easier than recutting the LCD panel a few times.

Click to view attachment

And I found the pic of the Gucci watchs I copied, Click to view attachment

Here is a pic of a WWII Online screenshot, the theme of the case.
Click to view attachment
I am still working on making some good screenshots to take photos of, any ideas or suggestions on what to see on the screen.

I got a few shots of some decent looking screens:
Click to view attachment
And this one I made to mess with my friend Barry who said many times last december-janurary "your gonna burn that thing up"
Click to view attachment
And I modified a screen to look as though there is critters living in my box.

Click to view attachment
And ever since I started modding PC's I have wanted a box with this screen on the case, and now I do

Click to view attachment
I made another diffuser for the lower portion. This cut my Reynolds number in half per diffuser, but the PSU and video card need their own supply. I forgot how much work I put into this little part until I had to copy it.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
12 triangular pieces ready to go, it uses only standoffs on 4 of the vanes, unlike the force the NASA one contends with, 5MPH will be about the max this intake ever sees.
Click to view attachment
Making something can be a challenge, copying it can be much more difficult.
And I had to make another hole in the side panel,
I attempted to cut this plexi without any masking tape on it, it just glued itself right back together without tack paper, so after a few passes I just put masking tape on and it cut like I was used too.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And my scroll saw cuts anything but straight. So on edges I use the hand file to get straight and smooth. But for circles I have used sandpaper around something round and coned, in this case a drinking glass. For aluminum and plexi circles I have just used this technique and turned it until it's a perfect circle.
Click to view attachment
Since I had the side off I took a few more close up's of how the monitor sits and the hardware from this side.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And a close up of the keyboard area, you can see it is a pretty tight fit for everything that is there. When I first got my Viewsonic 20.1 inch I was putting the keyboard on the LCD stand (kinda) and it seemed pretty tucked out of the way, this is how I really got the idea to stick the keyboard in this thing. Since the drives were going to be facing me anyway.
Click to view attachment
I also added a deflector to the outputs of each of the honeycombs. Once the air has been straightened it is very easy to control. One is aimed at the video card fan input and one deflects towards the monitor.
Click to view attachment
The new right side:
Click to view attachment
Then I run lots of tests with the handheld anemometer to check flowrates and pattens.
Click to view attachment
And smoke testing also, I cannot get a good photo of smoke going through the dark plexi yet, but it is impressive. Natural smoke goes in leasurly and kind of mills around to find the fans. Through these 2 diffuser/straighteners it is all business, the trails get in, and get out quickly. And smoke crossing the entire input diffuser you can see it hits the monitor entire back panel
(great to add active cooling where it was passive), and many seperation layers in between so they don't share heat. And what really surprized me was the airflow past the CPU. I bet if I had a straight fin heatsink instead of the spiral one, I could 86 the CPU fan. I am getting 2.1MHP flow past the CPU, not much less than passes through the heatsink with the low RPM stock fan.
That was with the turbine 1000 fans. Today I got the Extreme Turbine2000:
Click to view attachment
And they seem much more controllable on a bus, here I connected them to my blue PC bus. The lowest speed is about where the 1000's topped off. Extreme, I liked the sound of that. I just need to remove the manufacturers stickers, which I have done with all the parts. It looks like a stock car if you leave all the stickers on.
Click to view attachment

I think my fascination with acrylic cases is being able to test them with smoke. The pink Gucci PC I made I spent hours messing with the fans, only to see they didn't really do much to help cool the P4 that it was running.
This pic you can clearly see how the monitor is mounted, the black and silver ring are still attached.
Click to view attachment
Compare with the stock monitor.
Click to view attachment
Well that is pretty much it for the worklog. I have tons more pics but plenty were out of focus. And some are not much different than you see, if anyone wants a close up of something let me know.
I want to thank EM3Bilko also, he has been very supportive and commented on my build many times.
And thanks to everyone who took the time to read this and took interest in my work.

Sir, I just have to say, you are a master at your trade.

^-- that's an understatement.

That's awesome. Unlike a lot of custom builds, this one emphasizes function as well as form.

I'm just wondering how those 120mm flow straighteners would affect my temps if I put a few on my radiator. I'm not a physics expert, but wouldn't turbulence between the fins be a good thing? If those work, don't create extra noise, and don't kill the airflow then I might just have to put some on the fans I have strategically placed around my case.

What exactly does that wide angle diffuser do and how does it prevent the LCD and computer from sharing heat?

Thank you for your comment, you deserved all of the backing and praises that you got during this build. After all you put in a large amount of time, frustration, thinking, testing and every other thing that is required to fit each and every piece for maximum performance and keeping them all in operating temperatures. So my hats off to you sir for a job well done and done in style and grace. Happy Modding to ya.

You do mean on your PC radiator right? I have had people order parts for their automobiles. Especially Mass Airflow Sensors.
If your fan is connected directly to the radiator it might not help much. But then again the honeycomb connected with the 1/4 inch spacing toward the fan you get a good flow in the center dead spot, so it might work well. If you want to PM me your address I will send you one and then you can give me a review for radiators, how does that sound? I have not tested them much on radiators.
"The wide angle diffuser makes the flow speed decrease and the pressure rise. The recovery of pressure from kinetic energy reduces the power needed to drive the tunnel (airflow). " diffusers
To my best understanding for the diffuser, it takes energy/work to get the air into the diffuser opening and expanded to the larger size. This comes from the fan, but as the air starts it journey through the rest of the system, that energy is not lost but captured by the settling chamber.

The vanes ensure that the 120mm area gets filled evenly. Heat cannot to pass through 200 layers of air that is traveling straight between these two sets of hardware: PC/Monitor.

That helps clear things up a bit, although that website goes into far more detail than I understand at the moment. That first sentence really sums things up: "The diffuser is the gradually-expanding passage following the test section (e.g. Fig. 4), in which the flow speed decreases and the pressure rises."

So the purpose of the diffuser is more to separate the case into two air "chambers", not ventilate it, correct?

Well as much as I tried to read about it, "Almost all the knowledge acquired about diffusers is empirical.", so once I made one it was time to test it, and it has impressed me quite a bit since then. The purpose is really to maximize the input profile. With an open orifice, air takes the easiest path. With the honeycomb cells, all of a sudden the easiest path is restricted at that "easy" cell, so the rest of the cells more evenly distribute the force.
So it is for ventilation but like wind tunnels application, is ensures consistency and uniformity.
A diffuser on the other end was planned at first, to speed back up the airflow, but it is not really needed for this application.
My next case I want to build with 1 fan and a few honeycombs to see if I can pull it off.
Here is much more info about diffusers:
wide angle diffuser
Great questions by the way!
This application of honeycomb is for the fanless input, but mated directly to the fan here I tracked out the airflow profile with an anemometer.
Click to view attachment

You've done a lot of research for this. Where did you even get the idea from? I know you said you were inspired by the diffuser in the Ames Research Center, but did you find out about diffusers first and then see the big diffuser? Or was that your motivation for researching in the first place?

I knew the LCD/PC would be hot, and the pixels can get damaged from extra heat, and my buddy kept telling me I was going to burn this thing up.. well, besides not wanting to have it burn up, I was hell bent to prove this guy wrong.
But instead of getting on Tom's Hardware and reading what the latest best fan of the week was, I started reading about how to move air efficiently. It did not take long to find the wind tunnel research for dummies... (you know minus all the math)
This is the highest study of fluid dynamics. And the more I read the more it made sense to apply to what I was doing.
Reynold numbers and all the math I cannot calculate, but It seems to have proven very effective for seperating the hardware heat and cooling each one. Another great question, no one has asked me how it came about. Within weeks of opening the webstore I had orders from Dell, Analogic, several universities and such. Analogic used them on CAT scanners in the rotating gantry that has several video boards very tightly packed, they said they could not believe the performance increase.
My other 2 PC's have honeycombs mated to the fans. These have been running for months, the biggest benefit I have noticed besides lower heat is the air moves so fast past the chipset and MB dust does not build up. Here is a pic of the one running on my blue PC:
Click to view attachment

I see you've got the "patent pending" on your website. That's a very good idea, especially if this is gaining popularity in the industrial sector. The number of potential applications for a product like this is huge! I'm curious if you have any more details on what Dell was using them for.


Nice. Less dust is always good. Which motherboard is that in the picture?

The MB is a Gigabyte GA-8I945P-G running my Pentium 805D
Dell never wrote me back about what they found, It was an engineer from the thermal server division who contacted me. It was right about the time thay had a financial issue, about May. Most companies I try to work with to get what will work best for thier application, I have a few different choices besides the sizes. Different cell sizes and thicknesses.
I was quite surprized how many industrial applications 120mm fans have. Here is a pic of the 10 video boards from the CAT scanners, this is a design guide from Coolit for fan placement:
Click to view attachment
Coolit makes thermal CFD estimates.
Coolit thermal image applications

Today I opened the other side up to upgrade the lower fan to a 2000 RPM, this is much better with the bus, I think I will get another 2000, it runs super quiet and about 60cfm at 1500rpm.
Click to view attachment
And a somewhat decent shot of the DVI connection and USB port.
Click to view attachment
I tried to go with a 1 foot DVI cable, but it was about 1 inch too short. So it has a 3 foot DVI cable.

You are awesome.

http://digg.com/design/Guy_uses_honeycombs..._with_less_fans

Hey that's cool. I better post some pics of them actually working. I had to "borrow" the clear acrylic top from my other PC, but then I was able to film the inside with smoke going through.
I can only supply a small amount of smoke at once. But this is what the flow looks like all across the inside:
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I will try to get more like this.

Awesome job!!!!!!!! Hats off to u and your craft. Simply amazing!