temps were like 55-60C, that was about the most I would want my Conroe to see, but it is reasonable for them. They stay stable to about 65C, but I wouldn't wanna test that out.

HT Link voltage is your friend here. Max that out and watch the OCs fly

Turn off speed step, spread spectrums, FSB @ 1.4v. SPP @ 1.5v (Assuming you install the chipset fan)

I do have the chipset fan installed. I just don't really think that I am ready to mess with anything until I get a better cooler.

NO single voltage will help you OC more on a 680i board than the HT link voltage, other than that it's a divider game with the ram/CPU, and what's unstable today might be a gold setting tomorrow, it seems to be 100% hit or miss.

Anyway, I've got a little addition @ 3.5 to add, not max that's for sure, but I did run 2x32M to test a CPU speed that was 100% useless less than 3 days ago, and yet all i had to do was drop teh voltage down some (still need to go a bit lower) and set the ram speed higher for a different divider.

I would be concerned about my semi-crappy ram, but replacement sticks are on the way

Click to view attachment

I've got to get to REAL OCing for this thing, but the folding points make it hard to make myself go test

Okay, I got my new rev.A1 board last week from evga and have found it to be WAY more oc friendly than my original 680i. Before I could get to 3.2 pretty easily but couldn't for the life of me get much further, no matter what timings, voltages, or voodoo, I tried. This new board, cross-shipped to me on evga's dime, is AWESOME! I'll keep going, and get some more stability benches but here's super-pi at 3.4.
Click to view attachment

I envy you... argh, stupid me already RMA'd my BR

I am using the T1 versionof the 680i. I know one of the product managers with eVGA who informed me that the only difference between the AR/A1 nad the TR/T1 is that one is retail and the other isn't. He never mentioned anything about a BR version, in fact, I have never heard of it. I looked at the eVGA website and it doesn't list a BR version. Where did you see that model number, and what is the difference?

Do you guys think it would be ok to tweak this system a little bit with stock cooling, or should I wait?

OEM=BR, first revision. I traded in my AR and RMA'D it for free. But lo and behold, it didn't fix it. Then they come out with these new revisions... so there went my free trade in

I vote tweak. Just don't dump more than 1.45v into your CPU and you'll be fine Just make sure it doesn't go above 70C.

Aren't the T versions the OEM?

Yeah, but apparently the BR versions are the retail OEM boards. The TRs are the "lite" versions (but they call them OEMs)

updated the front list, I got something from myself as well:
OCCT 30 Minute Test, running 3304MHz with the RAM @ 413MHz @ 4-4-4-12

In that post I really meant the Zalman 9700. Is the tuniq Tower a better cooler than the Zalman?

Do you seriously advise bumping the HT voltage to max and the vcore to 1.4 right out of the box?

I think the A,B,and T series evga 680i boards had different stuff in the packaging. Like, the AR series came with a ludicrous number of cables, and manuals, and stuff. The T series only comes with a couple of cables, and the manual is on the cd--no hardcopy. The B series, I thought, was a non-US release, but I could be wrong(my wife says I often am!). But the A1 board is very fast. Don't get me wrong, my AR was fast, but not like this. The A1 also resolved the PS2 port issue, seems to have less voltage droop, eradicated the cold boot issues(although they were rare with the newer bios) and just seems solid as can be. I haven't felt this good about overclocking since I got my DFI expert oh so long ago!

By the way, that memory that is running at just over 1000 is some fairly inexpensive Corsair TwinX 6400. I'm only running 1.925V and it is stable at 1008 5-5-5-18. My harddrive sustained read speeds with the new board went from 48MB/s to about 61. That is on the same drive, same clock speed, same OS--just replaced the board.

I wanna tell ya, evga has won my loyalty with the service they provided in this swap out, and the quality of the product they put out.

Can you give more detailed info on settings and voltages that you are using? I could use some help getting started.

The Tuniq Tower will walk all over the CNPS9700! It's simply the best air cooler out there right now!

Thanks for the info!

I have a question about my RAM. I have G.Skill model # F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ. I can't find any info about it's ability to overclock, except in German (hint hint to King). Can anyone give me advice on what settings to use in order to make sure that RAM is not a limitation?

First off you can set the board's fsb/mem ratio to unlinked mode and go from there, however you may very well find that sone ratiso jsut dont work worth a dang, even so the freedom to keep ram @ a low speed while you toy with the CPU (and of course the other way around) is priceless. Other than that you can loosen timmings to 5-5-5-18 and see how high the ram makes it, If its the same I have...and i think mine's NQ (5-5-5-15 default)...then 950mhz @ 2.1v was my mostly stable result on the P5B-E. I havent tried pushing it with the up to 2.5v i can give it now so it may have much more heardroom, and may even be able to do CAS 4 in the 800mhz range. I might play with it a little later to see if i can give you a better idea of what works well for it.

Oh and as for the eVGA T1 vs A1:

T1: 2x SATA cables, 1 SATA power adapter, Rounded IDE cable, Rounded floppy cable, Chipset fan, Driver/Manual CD and quickstart guide were in the box

A1: has 6x SATA, 3 SATA power adapters, Rounded IDE cable, Rounded floppy cable, 4port USB bracket, COM port bracket, firewire port bracket, Chipset fan, Driver/Manual CD, RAID floppy, Manual and quickstart guide

I dont think i left anything out...

Either way im personally starting to love this board more and more, and thankfully the urge to set fire to ASUS headquaters is starting to go away after all the P5B-E problems, though I'm still not even remotely attached to that board...

chavalchito, you wanna hook me up with a link?

http://www.gamezoom.net/artikel/show/0,0,1,15293.html

that says nothing about OCing

I figured that out and I only speak American (silly UK speak)

ahh, gotta love german

anyways, I see you have them already, take a look here for the chips on them --> http://ramlist.ath.cx/ddr2/

Thanks, and anytime you need help finding out if something has nothing to do what you are looking for in Spanish, I'm your man!

I don't see my model number in that list...

mhh, that sucks then... google not helping you out either? Post over at www.diy-street.com or www.xtremesystems.org for OCing results, people should have that set there.

I can't find anything on this RAM. I guess the worste case scenario is that I run it unlinked at DDR800.

Ok, I really feel like such a noob now, but I am scared to mess with this thing at all. I guess I have a hard time getting to it after spending this kind of money. Can someone walk me through the first steps that I should take to get this thing overclocked?

EDIT: What are the other 680i owners using as a temp monitor? I would assume that you could use nTune. Nothing else is really needed to run OCCT, Orthos, etc., right?

Sorry I disappeared over the last few days, I got some nasty sinus infection--hard read monitors. Anyway, here's the first guide that I used to get my feet wet overclocking the 680. This is the "official" nvidia how-to pdf. I think they go a little overboard on some of the voltages, but it's a good thorough guide. Check it out!

Intel TAT, and core temp both seem to be fairly accurate. At least they seem to agree with each other. nTune always reads a couple of degrees cooler for me.

the nview monitoring tool has been VERY accurate to me in terms of temps. But RPMs and voltages are off (voltages are read off of BIOS, not exactly monitored, and the fan speeds are just plain off. Sometimes my nforce fan reads as 10k RPM )

See nview and core temp with orthos SS.

Yes, that reads 68c, It's actually hitting 74c now... This Si-128 ain't doing what I want it too, I'll be upgrading here in a bit.

A .pdf under NDA, that is awesome! I guess it not confidential anymore.

Wow! 74*C, that is hot. What cooler are you looking at upgrading to?

EDIT: I just noticed a big difference between what CPU-Z and the BIOS voltages say vs. nTune and OCCT. OCCT also lists my Conroe as an Allendale.

EDIT...AGAIN: I got the newest version of OCCT and it shows the right core.

I am starting of very slowly. Right now I am at 279*9, MEM default voltage/Linked @ 2:3, SpeedStep off, Spreadspectrum disabled, CPU core default, FBS 1.4v, SPP 1.5v, and HT 1.55v (maxed out). What is the max safe voltage for the HT?

I am going to run Orthos overnight and see what happens. Suggestions, please!

One more thing...what does"Tjunciton" mean on Core Temp? Yes, I looked it up. Is there a simpler explaination than CoreTemp=Tjunction-Delta?

Finally, which one do I trust, nTune or CoreTemp?

Did this thread just die all of a sudden?

Core Temp... heh ntune is usually the same as core temp for me.

But 55c already? I hit that with 1.5 volts @ 3.4ghz I think there's something wrong here. Unless your still on stock?

Max HT voltage, there is none. Everybody seems to be running it just fine at max volts

But keep pushing, and I believe tjunction is the max temp in which the CPU will automatically turn off. I tend to ignore it

I am still on stock cooling right now.

sorry to only get to you this late, but I was in Edinburgh, Scotland for a week as a class trip.
For questions OCing, you might also want to check out the 775 OCing guide in this section, it mainly lists general information but it might help.

I'll check it out. I am way to used to overclocking my MSI K8N Neo2 Plat.

yea, you get used to boards/sockets after a while don't you? I still have problems with DDR2 and stuff since I upgraded from 939!

Ok, right ow I am at 3GHz with the stock cooler. It runs at 65c load with FAH and Orthos at this setting, though. Time to get out a better cooler. I currently have the vcore at stock, SPP at 1.5, HTT at 1.5, and FSB at 1.4. I'll keep it here for a while and put a new cooler on tomorrow. Then I'll tweak it a little bit more and dial in the RAM.

Any advice is welcome.

EDIT: This morning I installed the CoolIT Eliminator. I haven't changed the overclock, but I am running ~19c idle and ~35c load with Orthos. I have room to grow now!

My CPU is throttling and I don't know why. I have HT 1.5v, SPP 1.5v, FSB 1.5v, SpeedStep off. What the hey??



EDIT: Apparently it is a CPU-Z problem; a conundrum!

Are you sure its off? Looks to me like its on. On the Gigabyte boards its called EIST.

CPU-Z says the multi is 6 and it is 9. It shows it at 2100MHz instead of 3.2GHz.

EDIT: Oh, you mean SpeedStep. Duh... Yes, I'm sure it is off. CPU-Z just suddenly shows the right speed now. Wierd.

Super Pi 32m. yes I know, temps sky rocket unfortunately So it's not stable at 3.6

My System is running smooth and fast, business as usual...


WeldZilla

Wow! What kind of voltages are you using to get that E6600 to run at 3.6? Is it 24hr stable with Prime95/Orthos?

nice thread here

Nice to see you stick you head back in here weldzilla! Nice pi score.

Thanks ccokeman, not sure why I was gone so long..

You have some serious juice going through that board. I should be able to push my cpu pretty hard with my TEC Cooler. How did you know when to stop pushing the FSB voltage and give the vcore a boost, or vice versa?

2.4vs into Micron D9, 1.5 into FSB, and a massive 1.65v into your vcore. Wow! I'd scared to have those running 24/7

With the cooling he has 1.65v is fine. I run 1.61 into my 6700 with 48 to 50c load temps on air.

There was no smoke or sparks coming out so it is ok!