well i was just sittin and i though....dang i am friggin cold lol, so i look at my mbm5 monitor and i see the best temps i have ever gotten

wish i could build a box so my pc could sit outside my window and not get wet...or nasty lol that is a dang good temp for an overclocked presc-hott

Wow, what kind of cooling do you have on that? Those are nice temps or inaccurate sensors, lol.

no my sensors are right, i go the zalman which dropped me down to a idle of 35-36 from the mid-high 50s with the stock, and as5 with that, my normal ambient temp is around 27-28 though lol so yeah that has alot to do with it

also i have 4 case fans ( 1 80mm intake front panel, 2 80mm lower side intake, 1 120mm rear exhaust), then the 120mm exhaust fan in my fortron psu, i want to get some nice delta fans though, just gotta get some funds lol and i am going to be doing a ton of internal mods coming up to get better airflow, so i hope at some point i may be able to get around 30 all the time

i dont mean to contradict, but i have an Abit IC7-G mobo, Prescott 3.0 cpu, and a DD H2O kit setup, ambient room temp stays about 18-20c, and the coolest my cpu is gonna be at idle is about 38-40c

mbm is notorious for being wrong if not set up correctly but usually better than the motherboard utility that come with it, then again, i dont even trust software temps too much

like right now my room temp is 9c(window was left open), cpu at full load is at 45c, but idles at about 40c

lol that is ridiculous man, i would be ticked if i had a dd kit and i was still that warm...

how do u set up mbm wrong, i dont see that happening, also everest detects and sets up the sensors itself and i had the mbm set up previous to installing everest, i would go get a pic of my bios temps for u but im lazy and my cam is at work so im not

but back to ur dd kit i dont see how u can be in a room at 9c and still have temps that high, there is something wrong with that...heck i have seen a resonator run that temp and they are passive cooling, i am guessin u have passive cooling if not, i would move the rad outside the case quickly...

hey whats that your running there? super pi? whats that, like burn in?

i was running super pi at 32M and i was running prime95 torture test large (it creates more heat than, small and blend)

gravy, your temps are kinda high for a DD kit and an ambient of 9c. Are you sure the block is seated correctly?

cbk04, that is a pretty good temp for a presshot lol. I have done a duct mod to the cpu before(why do ya think it's called "The Meatlocker" lol) if you want tips on how to do one PM me.

i have been wondering myself, my temps only dropped from 52-54c to 44-48c when i went from the xp-120 to the DD kit, did it all correctly, but no matter what my room temp is 10-20c, my cpu temp is between 44-48c at full load, i tightened the tdx retainers until the springs were compressed to 10mm, but it was putting a serious bow in the motherboard, so i backed off on them just a little to relieve the stress, might try tightening it down again, but i am afraid the mobo may crack or something

gravy, what are you using to monitor your temps? When you board bow's stop tightening lol. Did you use AS5? How about your cases airflow is it decent? What coolant are you using?

the Abit EQ utility is what i have always used, so although it may not be the most accurate, it is what i have always used, so at least the amount of variance is right

ceramique applied properly

case airflow is decent, three 80's in front intake, one 80 plus psu exhaust in back

radiator is mounted outside on back of case with a swiftech radbox, two sunon 120mm fans in push pull config, 200cfm total

using a 10-15%(approx) water wetter and distilled water solution, no air in lines

I think your problem may be that your radiator is inside your case, try moving it outside your case and then see what your temps are

gravy I have seen those software temp monitoring utilities like that be off as much as 20*C before so get a temp probe and find out what you temp really is

any suggested temp probes?

sdy284, it's on the outside

gravy, you MAY have added tomuch thermal paste. i have had the prob before.

possible, i'll reseat it in an hour or two when i get back home and report back

good call, and dont seat it so tightly lol

ok ok, i was just following the instructions, but common sense told me to stop ....lol

EDIT: nope, no difference

idk, then temps still sound high to me a for wc comp

but i hope my temps get lower, i plan on gettin 3 delta 120mm 1-intake 1-exhaust 1-blowhole, then gettin a hardcano 13 to control em all, and then installing the temp probes so i have some nice real numbers lol

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12ff.html

Hmmm...

My Xaser III Skull case has one 120mm high-CFM intake (though fairly quiet--it's on a Hardcano controller), two 80mm side intake fans, two 80mm rear exhauists in addition to the 120mm Antec fan, and a 120mm blowhole dead center in the top of the case.

Here are a couple of screenshots to show just what a properly-vented case can do for your temps:




These were taken just after (about 10 minutes after) a 3-hour HL2 marathon, in a 71F room. Max CPU temps I have been able to get with any burn-in program or Prime95 stress test have been 42C so far.

And the temps reported by these two utilities are corroborated by the Asus PCProbe, my Hardcano's thermal probe, and the BIOS HW readings.

So I'm guessing it's a pretty accurate reading.

^^ see he knows what he is doing lol

that is what good case ventilation can do, forget wc lol i will take some air

And im gonna help you design it LOL

well, i decided to drain the system, re-route and shorten(removed about a foot) hoses to make it run pump-radiator-block-res-pump, also diluted the mix a bit, very little water wetter, just enough to make it barely pink, re-mounted block, etc.......

very little change, maybe a degree or two at most

i dunno what to think, in my old case which had tons of case fans, two 80's in front intake, two 80's in side intake, one 80 under psu exhaust, psu fans of course exhaust, and a 120mm blowhole exhaust with an xp-120 i was running 54c full load, 40c idle

with this i am at about 40c idle and 45-47c load with a room temp of 18.7c

i moved everything to a new chieftech dragon, have all three 80mm mounts in front filled intake and one 80mm exhaust under psu, but i wanted it quieter, the temps inside, video card, northbridge, etc...are as low or lower than before, i guess more room for heat to rise, of course PWM temps are a bit higher as there is no 120mm fan on a HS, just a block, but the pwm temps are okay for now, they run about 5c less than cpu, but it's the cpu temp that bothers me

now i have been talking to nuclear and r_target over at the VO forums about this too, and they seem to think these temps are pretty normal..............i just dunno.......


oh and fastfvr, i just don't believe those temps, a prescott 2.8 at 3.0 at 28c..???that cant be full load, as in both "cpu's" fully loaded, it just doesn't happen, that's 8-10c roughly above room temp, no heatsink fan combo can do that, trust me, if an XP-120 can't do it, that Zalman can't, i think you are falsely reassured by those unrealsitically low temps

he said it was just after being fully loaded

his full load is 42c

10 minutes after to be exact

no, 10 minutes after full load is idle man, it only takes like 10 seconds for the big temp drop to happen, and after a few minutes it will go down a degree or two more, but i am here to tell ya, there ain't nobody gettin' 42c full load on air with a room temp of 70 F using a prescott cpu, especially one overclocked(even though that's a very small oc)

asus boards are notorious for reading too low, Asus PC Probe, your BIOS HW monitor, and Everest all agree because they are all getting the same information from the same sensors, so no surprise there

i mean, if you really want to believe you are getting enormously better temps on air vs. h2o(and not no big water crap) at full load with similiar room temps, similiar cpu's, etc....., i got a piece of "oceanfront property" i need to sell

if you ask me, it is more likely that my temps are actually lower than what is showing up by the temp sensors

ok that confused that heck outta me, so u think his load is lower than 42c?

A 21 degree temp change is possible thats not a stretch. i know that all software monitors use the winbond chip or whatever isa or other is on the board. But 21 degrees to 42 degrees is about right. But you are right , your temp sensors could be off , check with a laser thermometer or other temp gauge and see if they are , and if they are wrong recalibrate your bios accordingly. Do you happen to know what your water temperature is? you might wanna try a large resevoir(or however thats spelled) cause i have seen that help alot of people.

no, i said if you ask me, the problem is MY temps are actually lower than what MY temps sensors are reading

keyword "MY"

as in, i think his temps are reported lower than actual, and mine are reported as higher than actual, but i would rather be erring on the high side than be falsely assured that my cpu is godlike cool

http://www.bleedinedge.com/reviews/abit_as...s_temps_01.html

i'm not saying a 21 degree temp change is a stretch, i'm saying the temps are not right, it just doesn't happen, if so he is doing better than anyone on h2o that i have seen, and that just isn't gonna fly here, at least not with me, only if the room were extremely cold


something else to make you think, everest shows my PSu voltages like this at full load:

Voltage Values:
CPU Core 1.30 V
+3.3 V 3.20 V
+5 V 4.87 V
+12 V 11.67 V
+5 V Standby 4.95 V
VBAT Battery 3.25 V
DIMM 2.58 V
DIMM VTT 1.26 V
AGP VDDQ 1.49 V

this is completely wrong, way off, confirmed with Fluke digital Multi-meter at the ATX connector while running full load, my voltages are dead on for the most part, and these are the same values that MBM, BIOS, Everest, etc....all read the same sensors

ahh, see i told u it confused me lol

EDIT: monitoring of voltages isnt ever right from a program, they are just an average for a time frame, just like the temps

LOL, dude thats what i just said , i didn't say his temps were right, but the idle to load was right. thats why i said use a temp probe of sorts to get your actuals and then recalibrate you bios readings. also remember to add a couple of degrees fo compensation since the mobo sensors read from the cpu's internal diode not the socket or hsf. do the same with your voltages and multimeter and you should be golden.

p.s. do you have a way of getting your water temp or a larger resovoir?

i think so, i have an indoor outdoor digital thermometer with an external probe that i can drop in the res, lemme check that

water temp is 25.5c

thats not bad , from what i gather thats only a couple degrees above your room temp, right? what is your flow order (ie, cpu then gpu or vice versa)?your hydor pump is definately sufficient , so i would not even worry about that , but also how big is your resovoir? I did not mean to sound like i was being an @$$ to you i was trying to get the facts. LOL maybe we should start a new thread so were not thread jacking also.

yeah, room temp is 19.6c

5 1/4" DD bay resovoir

pump-radiator-block-res-pump

all 1/2" nominal flow fittings, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing, nothing restrictive, no 90's etc.....200 total cfm on radiator in a push pull config, radiator mounted outside with swiftech radbox kit

started a new thread, agreed, please don't mistake my being dissapointed as being as a$$, i just want to make this worth the trouble and expense, thanks for helping

Have you tried running it with the rad right after the block instead of right before? You c an also dryice your res too.

yes, i just finished changing the order, before was

pump-res-block-rad-pump

dryice......naw, this is supposed to be becoming a more tame beast, sounding quieter and looking more "pleasing"(to wife), but still performing

you still want outdoor cooling or similar?

go to pepboys and pickup a med size transmission cooler then run your water cooling setup through that

long enough hoses will allow you to put it outside your window if you so desire

but then condensation becomes an issue, and summer is coming, it will be much cooler in here than outside, but thanks

im workign on a water coolign system, that is useing a Heater Core out an '87 Datona Shylbe z, hopefully it will work well.

Well, thinking about it if you give the onboard's temp sensors their regular 5-10*C break in temp readings then for a presshot I would agree that your temps are probably about right. Like I said in my last post