Hey there. Few days ago i read a review about Sonata. I looked at it. I was like WOW! So SHINNY! i want my case to be like that! So how do you make a case liek that? all glossy and stuff? Thanks. I hope it doesnt invlove sanding my case.

sanding buffing or sanding and repainting is the way to go

an easy way to do it is to take it appart - then take a green scrubby thing like what you wash dishes with - not a real coarse one but a light soft one and lightly rub the whole case where u want to make it shiny - what this will do is ruff up the finish just enough to spray clearcoat on it -

go to walmart and buy the cheapest clearcoat u can get - i think usually its a lil less than a dollar a can - get bout 8 cans - then spray the ever living hell out of your case with it - make sure to allow at least 3 hours between coats and spray lightly - you dont want 1 thick coat of clearcoat - you want many many many thin layers as to actually make the coating stronger than just 1 thick coat - plus you wont hafta deal with wrinkles - wrinkles are bad mkay

top tip there mindDrive i think im gona do that but im gona spray a very thin layer of some redy/pinky pearlescent over my silver rig so it looks cool in the light.

thats kinda what i did with my case to get the color i got but i used bout 7 different layers of colors to get the final color (primer grey, white, silver,black,blue,silver,blue ect)

if my digital worked id take some pics of mine, my buddy works at an auto paintshop so we did some work there, the case weighs about 5 pounds more now from the clearcoat we put on, but the caselooks dang tight

DOH! dang it... ummm.... clearcoat? Will that make it shinny?

if done right yes

or if u wanted to work your . off you could enamal it the wet sand it and buff it and wet sand it and polish it and wax it

hmm... mite as well get a new case.....

most cases don't come with a good paint job...you have to do it yourself.

Hey there. Can someone make me a guide to sanding and repainting cases. LOL mite be great idea =] or make a quick guide to a list what i need to sand.... a list... Thanks!

to prep it go to your local spray shop you will need a pack of wet & dry it will come with all the grades you need,then you need a can of self leveling primer pink/gray will do fine then somwhere very clean and lots of water, if you want the best finish you will have to do a baremetal respray take all the paint off(you may need paint stripper& a paint brush for nooks and crannies)once it's all off give it a very light coat of primer & look for any paint you missed if any rub it all down again then repeat primer look for any defects if none give it a slightly thicker first coat of self leveling primer let dry and then take your 1000grit wet&dry dunk it in a bucket of water and rub it back slightly and let it dry repeat primer... keep repeating this untill you see no metal/hairs/dust then take the highest grit paper say 3000 or so dunk in wet bucket rap around a cork block and work it in a polishing motion making sure the paper stays very wet after you need to get as much clean water on it as possible and when you think it's clean..clean it again then you can move on to spray/paint/airbrush you case.

And when your done with that wet & dry sand paper, lap your heatsink with it :-P I know raidmax is popular because their paint is really good. But I'm not too sure about other companies.

and when it comes to the best paints house of kolor make the best paint on the planet house of kolor

they are great
if u wanna pay an arm and a leg

as long as you take your time paint should not really be an issue

heck walmart has a chameleon paint kit for 17 bucks, comes with everything you need, did it on my front panel and it turned out great

pics to come when i get my digital replaced

anyone care to donante to my fund

The Mirage kit is a decent kit. The clear in the kit is garbage though. OK, For the best finish, Do as Dean said, sand it all down or strip it. Look for some stuff called "aircraft remover". This will take all the paint off in 5 minutes or less. Then sand with a power sander, to remove any texture(if you want it smooth). After that, spray a thin coat of primer. This is called the "guide coat". After the guide coat has dried, you can start sanding again(Use the full sheet of sand paper for this). Start with a 400-800 (higher grits for plastic)grit for this. Sand in intersecting lines in a 45 degree angle(corner to corner). This will create a "cross hatch" look in the primer. The purpose of this is to 1. create the best surface for paint adhesion. and 2. allow you to see any high spots or imperfections in the panel BEFORE you paint your color. (this process is called "blocking")
If you're satisfied that your surface is smooth, then spray your main primer coat. After that dries, you may start with color. Apply THIN coats of color. If you block correctly, a minimum(if any) of sanding is required for the color coats. If it's not right though, then you may color sand(wet sanding) up to the highest grit you can. After you are satisfied with yur color, start applying clear. Wipe with a tack cloth first to help remove any fine dust, then spray your clear starting OFF the panel, painting across it, and stopping OFF the panel. Don't EVER start your spraying in the middle of the panel. After you get a good 2-3 THIN coats of clear. If it's smooth, you're done. If not, start polishing/buffing

And HOUSE of KOLOR is GOOD stuff. I have used it a few times, but I have found that PPG colors spray a little more evenly(and is a better product chemically).

The KEY to a good finish is in the blocking step. Take the most time doing this, and you will end up with the smoothest surface. In collector cars, the difference between a $1000 paintjob and a $10000 paint job is in the blocking. This generally is THE most time consuming step in the whole process, but will make the biggest difference in finish quality.
I build hotrods for a living so I tell you the truth!!

And if there are any doubters...that's me on the right