...I am seriously thinking about doing this to my whole computer...

http://www.metku.net/index.html?sect=view&...uttle/index_eng


here is pic of my PC

do it for sure but know i think it will take a long time and u will make mistakes but take pics and let everyone see so we can all copy u . i think it will turn out sweet if u have the right tools

..You're gonna need to be putting some haddles, cuz im sure you wouldn't want to take it from the polihed part..But yes it would be very sweet .

Now that would be awesome.

That looks awesome! I think you should do it so we can see how it turns out. If it ruins your case, we'll know not to do it. B)

I was questioning how it would look while I was reading the start of the guide, but the final product looks really nice! Try it and tell us how you do!

He really got an amazing finish on that puppy.I'd like to do that to the inside of my case.

what case do you have paintballer, or watever it is hehe ..

might gonna do that to my case....looks awesome..

Ive done this before to my paintball gun.... I just use finer and fine grit till i hit 1500 then i polish the sucker

Powmax somthing or other is the case (Yes i did blow the stock PSU)

Ive got some of this stuff (ECP)and it is RIGHTEOUSLY KICK A**. I wouldn't suggest doing this to a steel case though. If you HAVE to polish your case go buy a cheap aluminum one first to try. Aluminum polishes much easier than steel b/c of the grain in the metal. I ruined the side panel to a steel case already. BUT if you cant get an aluminum case, make sure you start with a ROUGH sandpaper to remove any surface textures. Wrap a full sheet of sandpaper around a 2x4 (or something long and flat) and make FULL passes across the ENTIRE surface. Sand in intersecting lines (up, down/left,right)NEVER in a circle. I say use something long and hard(Insert joke here) to blend any imperfections into the surface(Think lapped processor, you know how the concave area in a processor is the last to get polished?) Doing this and taking LOTS of time will make the surface like a mirror without any of the imperfections in the surface( it wont look like a funhouse mirror). The Shuttle case looks killer b/c it has a smaller, more rigid surface area. (i.e, its easier to polish with almost no surface imperfections or waves). The larger the area to be polished the more likely you are to end up with a distorted finish...SHINY AND REFLECTIVE...but distorted nonetheless.

Very nice, i may do this to my next rig

i like that case alot. Is it steel, or aluminum?

Thanks i do too... It is aluminum... I am woried in messing it up...And i couldnt find one exactly like this one anywhere anyone know powmaxs website?

edit:never mind i got there site


http://www.powmax.com/CASE/METAL/0209SW-2.htm

thats the site for my case

what is it.lol i want that case

Its in frames so i cant give the exact page

http://www.powmax.com/CASE/METAL/Metal4HL.htm

bottom row middle col

"CPATX02094HLSW" I need to call them and ask if i can get a new replacment right panel

Dont bother calling them intending to order they only sell to resellers.... Ill find one for both of us

Thats the only place i could find it.. I paid 30bucks when i got it...
Not bad at all huh?

http://geek.pricegrabber.com/search_getpro...sterid=2249490/

I like your case too. I have a RAIDMAX w/ the exact same side window. The RMax comes with the blue Aquatubes in the front and a 80mm clear side case fan. Yeah, They're STEEL. I know b/c I messed up the non window side POLISHING. And a replacement panel is about $20 retail, and since a new CASE is only $30, Its kinda a no brainer to just get a new case. BTW..Tough to find an aluminum case for under $75-$100, thats how I know you got a STEEL case . Thats OK mine is too. Im kinda hesitant to spend $100 on a case and go hacking on it which I know would be done(it's inevitable with people like us). Any way,

Steel is cheaper, heavier, and slightly quieter b/c its more dense.
Aluminum is lightweight, can be HIGHLY polished with much less effort, and conducts heat better.

You could even check out buying the metal yourself in sheets and have it cut to the size you want. Any good Sheetmetal shop can do this for you, and its surprisingly inexpensive. You can even get Stainless Steel Sheets(think expensive kitchen appliance, with the grain in the metal..oooooo)and bend the edges yourself with a hammer and blocks. but HEY any sheetmetal shop can do this too. Let me get a website for you, so you can do some research on your own. Maybe find something a little closer to home...

It would look sweet except for the finger prints...

Yeah, lol.. "DONT TOUCH!" thats what id be yelling at lan partys....plus it would be blinding in the day light

OK, Check this site out. They,ve got some COOL .. Depending on how serious and imaginitive you are. got the cash and want to build a TITANIUM CASE? These guys can help ShapiroSupply.com Theyve got MIRROR finish sheets AVAILABLE. AND they can do custom bends before they ship. All you gotta do is drill out the holes to attach it ti the chassis. Or you could build a tube chassis...Anyway, point is thes guys are EVERYWHERE. Check your yellow pages.

A polished case would be sweet, add some casters or attach a couple polished handles to the top and your set.

soo....how well would this work on my steel case? i think it's steel, how do i tell?

well, how much did you pay for it? If it was $30, then chances are its NOT an aluminum case. Aluminum is a pretty expensive material...did you look at aluminum on that site? I'd go for the polished stainless.
As long as you have a frame with a mobo tray and drive racks, you can do whatever you want. It's all up to your creativity and dedication. And you can use ANY material you want... and can afford.(*cough, titanium panels, cough*)

beautiful, great Idea! THat is option 4 for me

Whats for you? TITANIUM PANELS? H*LL YEAH!!, DO IT! How bout all copper? An all polished copper case? Its only $8/sheet!, Maybe I'll do it and we can set them side by side Anyway, The polished stainless will look killer. Make sure you post a pic. I want to know how it turns out.

yeah...just went online, and it's....1mm SECC steel.

Will it still turn out well? j/w

You would have to clear coat the steel or Mr. Rust will make an appearance.

soo...sand the case completely down, using a rotary sander, then apply like...6 or 7 coats clear coat? then...wet sand up to 1200grit, then apply the polish? would that work?

I guess you would do the clear coat last.I've never tried it,mainly because steel seems to do best painted in my experience.

[QUOTE]
soo...sand the case completely down, using a rotary sander, then apply like...6 or 7 coats clear coat? then...wet sand up to 1200grit, then apply the polish?


The man is right about the rust! This would probably work for you. Go that extra step and go on through a 1500 and 2000 grit paper. (AUTOZONE $2.49/pack)

We have some similar stuff on worktables where I work, but they're not finished, we coat them in Naval Jelly(not bellybutton) to keep rust away. Point is, there may be some treatments out there you might want to look into BEFORE you apply that last polish. I work in a hotrod shop, I'll ask some of the paint guys where I work and see what they say.

In the meantime, see if they have any other polished metals you might be interested in. If the aluminum is do-able, then I'd go for that. Lighter, cooler, and easier to polish.

EDIT:I just checked and the Mirror Finish Stainless is $6.90/sq. ft. @22ga thickness or .030 and comes coated in PVC which means it's got a finish already. Maybe not the finish you want but a finish nonetheless. AND I believe you can order this material PRECUT TO YOUR SPECS.
Just keep in mind how you plan on attaching the panels. Thes new sheets wont have those neat little tabson the back that just slide in. I recommend a small piano hinge(Shapiros Ebay Store, Lowes, Home Depot) on the back and perhaps a cylider key to latch it like in vending machines or on the front of the expensive PC cases that have a door.(HOME DEPOT, LOWES). Maybe a small magnetic cabinet catch with a nice neat polished cabinet handle. The possibilities are endless...GOD I LOVE THIS HOBBY!!!!!!!!

While we're on the topic of metal (Slayer!) does anyone know where to find this kind of perforated metal?I always loved the way these old McIntosh (not made by Apple) power amps look,and I was thinking about resheathing an old case in this stuff if I could find it anywhere.

The only place to get it is at
http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html

Btw i did a PSU box like that not too long ago,i kinda ran into a little problem though the metal was cheap steel and once polished it made darker spots but it really makes a mirror effect

man... i thought lapping was crazy enough... now you got people doing shuttle's and psu's... i do quite like r_target's idea of the whole inside of the case... would look really cool, maximise your lighting, would be a pure bastud to do tho! haha... lap your entire case...

hmm, on the outside, fingerprints... bendy mirrors... scratches... too much hassle

i'd do the inside, more effort to do it, but then hardly any maintenance... and i think i'd like internal reflection rather than external... i don't really fancy seein more of my shoes/floor all the time anyway!

I just dug in my toolbox and found my buffing wheel,tripoli compound and jeweler's rouge.I'm going to practice on some AMD heatsinks( ).If I decide to do it though I'll have to move my comp into a beige solution until I'm done.That way I can keep folding.

The more I think about it the more I like it.......

well...i dug up a spare piece of metal from my case from a window, and to tell you the truth, it looks not bad for a 600grit wet-sanding job.

here's a pic...

btw...it's Steel, and some people say it won't work well on steel? is this still true?

It will work on steel,you'll just have to seal it somehow.Nice job,btw. Thanks for the link Kobalt.

seal it? whaddaya mean?

It could still rust.I'm not a metallurgist but I can tell you,sooner or later it will rust.Try some spray-on clear coat stuff from the hardware store on your test piece.

just clear-coat it after i'm done?

[edit]

actually, i think it'd be quite cool to have a rusty case! interesting mod!

You dont have to clear coat it afterwards i just applied mother's car polish on it and it's still nickle shiny it's not like the inside of your case is a very humid environnement, and still mother's (or any car wax) will protect it enough so even water will beed and give a baby bottom smoothness to it

He's right about the wax! Just make sure you use a good quality wax..(No turtle wax) Liquid waxes are good too. Waiting to hear back from my bossabout the finish question though. There is a way to clearcoat polished metals without sanding to scratch the finish.

what about this part of the end of your post? ii'm confused.

spike tv is a new channel in canada i dunno about the states
but he does the lightening effect for the station

Spike Sucks, but working at the show, I've come across MANY automtoive products that would be PERFECT for modding PC's. Be it polishing and painting, metal work or wiring. Cars are all 12V and a great paint job looks good on ANYTHING. I never put 2 and 2 together til I came to the show. Point was, to watch and learn a little.

and yeah wax is good.

Good point about the wax.I started thinking about low humidity myself the other day,but wax totally slipped my mind.