Wow that looks great, love the color scheme you've got going.

The green sleeving and A.C.Ryan fans really match the DFI P35 very nicely.

yea they do thats crazy
i almost replied asking him if he painted it to match but i didn't want to look stupid so i searched newegg first

Normally I wouldn't be a fan of the color scheme of the DFI P35; but it really does look good in this build.

Thanks All!

Well its been a long night. I have to work today @ 18:30.....one of the unlucky bastards who keeps the light on during the holidays.

Before I hit the hay, check it out - back online. There's still more to do but its alway nice to have things work after a transfer. Especially after the trouble I had......again it was a long night! My drink of choice is in the background, helped me stay awake. :eek2:






Time to rest. :nod:

I personally am not a fan of the green, but that's a sweet setup you got. I like the cleanliness of the loop and the wiring. Can I get a close-up shot of the optical drive and the fan controller?

I like the green, looks alien or poison green or whatever, anyways it looks really nice.

The only thing I would say is to try to get rid of that light leaning on the PSU, try to tuck it in maybe behind the frame in either location 1 or 2 I marked on your pic:



You'll lose some light, but it looks so much neater. I usually place mine in location 1. Just a suggestion.

Font and back

The CF film on the drives looks sweet

I just threw the uv's in for effect. :cool:

The two places you said, I already tried and they didn't fit. I would rather have them not show, like you mention....maybe a couple smaller 8" uv's and tuck them away somewhere.

Yeah, that would probably look better.

Very nice job

The fan controller, drive, and memory fan cooler film was an earlier mod (sorry no pics).

I will be using the CF film to cover the AC Ryan sticker on the uv fans.....it went like this






I want to cover the space below the hd's.....maybe use the same mesh as I did on the top with a uv green acrylic behind it.....any ideas?
The picture also shows the silver backed case panel, something that will be painted a different color.




Thanks everybody for your ideas and compliments.

Put a peice of that two-way mirror acrylic to hide that spot :tooth:

Great job on the paint job. I do know from recent experience that painting a case is time consuming & somewhat of a PITA.
The AC Ryan fans are awesome fans and the UV green sleeving really stands out in that case. The UV green on the DFI board should look awesome with the help of the AC Ryan fans.
I also noticed the fine job you did on the sleeving of the Front panel wiring.
I think a piece of the modders mesh will look fine covering that area. I used some of this to go around the edges of a piece of modders mesh to give it a nice finished look.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...oducts_id=21505

Awesome job on the mod, man. I really like the CF film covering the retail sticker, it creates a hypnotizing-black-hole-effect. :eek2:

Very nice, indeed.

That stuff is liek gold and would have been perfect. I do have a green and a blue sheet of uv acrylic.




Painting a case requires patients, something I have little Thanks for showing your work, painting and sleeving. The mesh should work.....




Thanks! Like you say I put the CF film over the sticker, it had a metallic backing for the fan.



This is what I had in mind to cover the bottom hd cage

A few other ideas for hiding the pump area:
- black acrylic (translucent would probably be best)
- frosted acrylic (any color); just wet sand it with maybe a 200-400 grit

The cover is turning out OK. Still more work to but here's the general idea of how it looks.

I cut the mesh and used the wooden block the form the edges.




Mesh bent and acrylic cut.



I sanded all sides of the uv green acrylic and just set the cover in place.



UV lights ON





I still have more work.....for the next few days.....I'm on vacation . I'll be going to Nashville and meeting up with the family, it should be fun, I never been to that part of the country. My mind could change on the cover by the time I get back. I really don't like how its turning out.

That came out pretty cool man, you got yourself one mean looking rig there. :cool:

How's the mobo working out? I am starting to eyeball the X38-T2R....

Good thinkin' on that lil' cover!
You turned a "negative" into a "positive"!

Just went and looked at all the work you did! GREAT JOB! Looking really nice!

Thanks for all the compliments!

I'm still vacation Got to visit some neat places in Nashville. I was there for 2 days and seen the Belle Meade Plantation and the Grand Ole Opry. Country is not my choice of music but it was still a great time. The best was hitting all the bars/clubs and hearing the different bands play. My family and I left Tennessee and headed to Michigan, where my sister lives. Here we celebrated New Years, drinking and playing games. I'm now in Indiana at my parents. Tomorrow I travel to Chicago to catch a flight back to Colorado (home sweet home).


@ t ski: The P35-T2R has been a great MB, I have no complaints. The X38-T2R should be a good choice.

mknwatt, you did a good job of painting the casing. I like to know what brand you use. I was using the krylon fusion flat black but the result was terrible. The texture was rough like chorcoal and after sanding it off , black powder was everywhere i had to put the casing into the shower to give it a wash. Really demoralised

From the pics yours paint texture looks very smooth and constant black all over. How do you do it? Hope to get your advice. I was actually inspired to spray paint after i saw your post.

Thanks

Welcome to the Street. Go to www.mnpctech.com for a tutorial on case painting:

http://www.mnpctech.com/Media.html

Lots of thin, light coasts, sanding in-between.

I used the Rustoleum Pro Flat Black on my case...you get the rough texture from over spray. To get rid of it you need to sand it off (I used 400 grit) very lightly and then use a lightly damp rag to wipe down where you sanded to remove any loose paint. The most important thing is that you take your time.

Thanks for the reply. So how many coats did you do on 1 side & the time between each coat?

So is your a smooth texture? Flat black don't have to mean rough right?

Thanks

Flat black means the paint is not shiney (not glossy). The more sanding and the more coats you do, the smoother the finish should be. I would venture to say you should do at least five coats on each part, but you are going to have to see what works best for your situation. I think for a mi-tower case you should probably use most of two cans of quality spray paint.

Thanks nez. I’m very new to painting cases, this being my first. I read a few guides and posts on users experiences in various forums. themodnation-forums.com is full of info (t ski linked to it also).

The paint used on this case was Rustoleum Painter’s Touch (gray primer and flat black). There's better paint, I just found this paint easy to use.....it worked just fine

Before painting, I sanded the case with fine steel wool, getting the shine off but leaving the powder coat. Steel wool allowed me to reach the tight corners but left me with a big pile of dust. Wet sanding will eliminate the dust, but is done with special wet sanding paper.

I blew the case off with compress air, washed with a little soap and water, and let it dry or compressed air dried.

I applied the first coat of Rustoleum gray primer. Let it dry for 40 minutes and recoated…..touching up the light spots. I let it dry for 24 hours and repeated the sanding and cleaning process as stated above ^^^^. I recoated with gray primer, sanded, and cleaned. Then I started with the flat black paint…..repeating the same steps of sanding, cleaning, painting, drying......doing two full coats with 40 min touch-ups in between coats. I used 7 cans of spray paint (4 gray primer and 3 flat black)

Spray paint will create a paint-dust that settles when drying (over spray?) I don’t know the correct term. I also had this; you called it a rough charcoal look. Sanding and cleaning was the right move and is very importance to achieve a smooth constant texture.

you have no idea how many times i said "that looks bad ass" to myself

Thanks SuppA-SnipA!

I should have more done soon. I'm working on the hd/pump cover, trying different things with the acrylic.

ya keep it coming, how do u like the dfi p35?

The P35-T2R runs my hardware perfectly. OCing it is a snap; CPU and Memory.... its comes with a lot of tweaking options. A good PSU is a must! It has turned into my main rig, replacing my old dfi nf4 expert. Very pleased with it

"I like to watch"

Just some awesome pics in this thread.
Very very impressive work and attention to detail.
(I loved the shot of MNPCTech "U"-Channel vs Frozen CPU "C"-Channel molding.)

Painting and cutting looked flawless.
Need more pics.
Have someone take a pic of yer badself with you next to the case.

We bow to your uber nerdiness.
Excellent Mod

just like any dfi mobo psu wise

deleted

Thanks. Am looking for Matt but smooth to touch look. Don't like the glossy look. Thanks for the advice.

mknwatt, Thank you very much for taking the time to advice me. Much appreciated. Now i have a better understanding. I will check out the website for more understanding

Thanks Bro.

btw, for a first timer, you did one hell of a job.

More Progress:

I cut a new acrylic piece with a simple design cut out.






The mesh needs a fresh coat of flat black.




The mesh painted with the acrylic behind it. (front and back)





Installed cover inside case.




UV lights ON

That's very very nice work bro!

I think an organized abduction, er, public viewing is in order. :shake:

Nice work!

More Progress:

I put together a Y-floppy cable.

2 uv green floppy connector housings, female floppy power pins, and 22AWG wire (red, black, and green)




Used a needle nose to crimp the wire, then soldered the connections. There must be a better crimping tool, making a more secure connection (I choose to solder). The picture only shows one part crimped with no solder (I would crimp the back before I would solder).




Here's one end complete and another end; ready to be put together.




Getting ready to make the male molex pin connections. I put the 1/8" (3 mm) sleeving and 3/8" (9 mm) heat shrink on before tying the wires




Floppy power ends tied together and soldered to a molex pin.




Finish cable and installled




UV lights ON

ooowww, very nice indeed.
Great Pics man.
Keep it coming.

Good job man, that looks really good, only suggestion I would make is to zip tie the sleeve then put the shrink over the zip tie

Bingo! Looks like out Reels a little anal about stuff just like me! He He!

I'm gonna say the same thing in fact that's what I did for my sleeving; it looks better using smaller zip-ties and color doesn't matter much when it's under the heatshrink.

Awsome man. I am going to start my P180 Modding soon to fit a 240 BlackIce II and a 120 50mm thick (not sure brand). I use mostly asetek parts with 3/8" ID tubing. I would have upgraded to larger if Asetek didnt have 1/2" OD connectors.



Not sure if I am going to paint it and all. If you could PM me with the exact paint types I would consider it, since I will be cutting a bit of the case.

Thanks! :nod: I will try the zip-tie under the heatshrink.....maybe redo cable

I'm working on replacing the front mesh, don't care for the Cooler Master emblem.










They haven't learned how to work the camera yet! They enjoy watching a case mod in action. :nod:

I wouldn't take the cable apart, it was more a suggestion along the lines of "Next time..."