Had a freezone CPU cooler sitting for 3 weeks (after waiting 2 months just to get the darned thing) and finally got to set it up. The local PCclub had a Stacker 810 on sale which is perfect for this unit. I'll post a review when I get my NF4 back on line as I did some screen shots of temperatures and of course I tore it apart before uploading the images Put it all together and ended up with this mess...



I've grown so tired of cases having absolutely no "real" cable management (I'm sure there are some but I've never owned one yet). You put it all together and it looks all pretty and clean...then all the cables are connected...and it's a rats nest.

Another thing is the PSU mounted topside...while the stacker 810 has no cable management, it at least mounts the PSU on the bottom and the extra 120mm exhaust in place of the traditional PSU mount was perfect for the Coolit Freezone...

Once I got it all assembled and found that I was very happy with the Freezone unit (aside from some quality control issues) I decided to tear it all down and proceeded to add a blowhole, some holes for zip ties, a notch for power cables and clearance for the Freezone 92mm to 120mm adapter...(Pile of poop. I'll save that for my review)

Tools used:
Dremel
Jigsaw
Drill motor
1" Mill bastard file
Utility knife/Razor/Exacto (any sharp pointy object will do)
Cutting/Drilling Template
Two sided tape
Sharpie marker
Masking tape
Safety Glasses :cool:
Re-chargeable mini vac

Unfortunately I forgot to pick up some dust masks...You'll be blowing metal flake moco's and have a lovely metallic taste in your mouth without one of these (sounds funny, but not too healthy).

All images are Thumbnails, so just click em' for a better view...

Started by completely gutting out the case...



Next, I masked the top of the case to prevent scratches (I did end up removing that top bit of plastic)...I used a utility knife to cut around the existing grill so I had a good reference point for my template....



A shot of the template with some two sided tape and then attached to the case. I left a piece in the center of the template so the jig saw would have a level surface to work on...Got lucky that it ended up being almost the exact size of the existing grill which made it easy to position.



I drilled some entry holes for the jig saw blade and the mounting holes as well. I used a .125 diameter for pilots and later reamed them as needed. This keeps the holes nice and round. Ever try to free hand a large diamter hole in steel? The drill tip wants to walk/drift on ya and the holes generally come out looking like they were chiseled

After the holes were drilled and the cutout was complete I removed the template then all of the masking tape. I then re-applied four strips of tape around the cutout to give myself some straight lines to reference while filing the edges...



Fan mount/bezel installed. Fan mount and trap ring are .060 aluminum with 6-32 pemnuts for mounting. Since I only made one it would have cost too much to get it anodized black and I'm not a big fan of do it yourself Krylon jobs so I left it bare. I picked up the 6-32 X 3/8 socket head screws at the local hardware store. All they had was black oxide finish but it goes well against the silver.

[img]http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/3323/blowhole24jv.th.jpg[/img]

Continued in next post....

Next up was creating some clearance cuts around the upper 120mm mounting hole to accommodate the Freezone adapter. The supplied adapter is shown in the picture next to the one I had to make myself. First off I didn't notice that the 92mm fan hole was offcenter until I went to mount the unit. It's pretty obvious in the picture I don't know that this is intentional to maybe allow optional positioning of the cooler but the picture in the owners manual is clearly on center. The other thing that is botched on the adapter is the countersinks to allow the use of flush head screws (which they provided). The countersinks are nowhere near deep enough, offcenter to the holes and out of round. They must have turned the new guy loose on this thing with ZERO training and the inspector must have been on vacation or hungover...enough rippage I could have countersunk my own adapter and avoided the dremel work, but hey, it's more fun to go nuts with a dremel in the midnite hour.



The rest was just a clearance notch for the power cable routing and lots of holes for zip ties...



And some holes in an expansion slot cover for fan controllers...Sporting 3 Silverstone 120mm FM121's (front intake, rear intake and blowhole)...



Final results...



Still a rats nest, just slightly more organized :sweat: I can clean it up a little more but I really wanted to get it back together and start torturing some hardware. Air flow is great. Blowhole does absolutely nothing other than look cool. Temps pretty much stay the same with or without the covers. That is another goal I had before I started all of this. I absolutely go nuts after you get some decent temps going and then it all goes out the window when you button it all up. Tired of computer case covers scattered all about the apartment...This setup works great.

And what slide show would be complete without a picture of the disaster in progress? (and of course a king size bunny sleeping on my couch)

[img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/6178/disaster27rj.th.jpg[/img]

Anybody interested in blowhole template/fan mount kits just shoot me a PM. If there is enough interest in these kits I can make a dozen or two and have the bezel grained and anodized. I'll create a "For Sale" thread if any interest exists...

Lastly, a preview of the next slide show....

[img]http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/2998/casebase7vv.th.jpg[/img]

Oldguy,

Finally got around to coming back here and commenting. After the first attempt, only to find the forums down for the revamp (awesome job!), and then spending the next two free evenings (very rare free evenings) nearly gutting my own system for a complete reconfiguration of aircooling etc.

I've got two blowhole projects lined up, I'm glad I've been putting them off because I see a couple of things in your method here that I very much prefer to the old "hole-saw" method. The biggest benefit is that I don't have a hole-saw drill bit, and they run over $30 for a single large one, sheesh! Anyway, this method has a much cleaner finish to it, and are all straight cuts!

I know what you mean about new parts (highly anticipated and coveted) sitting on a shelf waiting for enough time to install them. I finally got my XP-120 installed, after no less than 2 months on a shelf -- granted I was giving the previous cooler a very good test and workout. I'm a patient man, and there is plenty other tweaks and things to occupy my shorter durations of spare time to keep my mind off the big one I really want to do but can't because it would take my system offline for days.

LOL! Sorry, but I simply must LOL about the cable management comment! LOL :nod: :angel: :sweat:

Laughing with you, not at you!

I think everyone can relate to this, even the most anal cable master had a computer with spring-loaded wires that looked great when routed, but sprang into a rats nest once you stand back and look at your work! :eek:

There is definately an art to it, where talent isn't a necessary trait and ability only improves with practice. Every time you return to the inside of your case for one reason or another, you make a small change to cable routing here and there, and your system evolves into a more perfectly managed cable environment.

If I could only show you some of the computers I used to own, before I got into presentation and cable management, unhindered airflow and home made sleeving. You think yours is bad?? LOL. Alas, that was all pre-digital camera era.

I will dig up a few before and after pics of some recent work I did to client systems. I'm sure a couple examples I have start out much worse than what you have, and end up pretty clean.

Out of all the things I do with computers, I find managing cables, particularly other people's computers that are a complete mess, is one of the most rewarding, fun, and relaxing of activities. If I look at some of my earlier work, I sometimes cringe because it doesn't match my current standards. So again, it is very much like an art, because like an art the artist hates his early work regardless of what others think about it.

Looking at some of the finished pics, I must say I really like some of the cable work. You have used a technique usually only present in industrial equipment, where wires are routed sort of like roads and highways, in straight lines horizontal and paralell to the view. This is rare to see in a PC, looks awesome and takes a lot of time and effort to get right, not to mention a lot of extra cable. Working on a large web offset heatset printing press fresh out of high school, this is something I've been exposed to since before computers were in the home, and where I picked up my first ideas and techniques from. This printing equipment takes an army of electricians about a month to wire in a press install, and the work they do is excellent. I watched, and learned, and copied. Unfortunately, my P180 has neither the room nor cable length to do this, so I envy you!

My only critisisim would be that some of the wires are not following these tracks, but I am sure there are valid reasons for this such as not enough wire or the need for unhindered access to that wire, etc. I'm sure that over time, one wire at a time, you will find a solution whether it be replacing the wire with a longer length or rerouting it so that it is completely hidden, and eventually this case will be a model of perfection! It is nearly so now!

That case comes normally with the PSU in the bottom? Odd I never noticed that before, and I've looked at plenty of stackers. :confused:

One question I have is how you made the template for the blowhole. I think I downloaded the PDF to print out, but how did you actually get the thing cut out so acurrately? The middle crosshairs would be a bitch without some percision machinery...



I'd be interested in one for sure. PM me for my address (in Canada) and let me know the postage and handling, I'll either mail you a check to cover the costs, or can paypal it to you if you have paypal.

Anyways, great work, great job, nice livingroom lol, and NO it is NOT still a rats nest, far from it... THIS is a rats nest:







This is a P4 450mhz Slot 1 (SEC?) system, hard to say because... I can't see a FRICKEN' CPU!

Not to highjack this thread, let me know if I'm intruding and I'll edit this out. But here's the story with the above system...

It belongs to a nice retired widow who uses it to do research on the internet (family tree) and play a few windows games (she is a bridge player, plays with my mother-in-law).

Problem: System shuts down randomly, progressively getting worse. Owner has very little income and disposable cash, so no upgrade to new computer Mr Salesman! Testing the rails at boot to desktop, load and idle shows normal results. Within 30 minutes of testing, the system now shuts off before even hitting windows splash screen.

Solution: Take the system to Litho Labs and swap the PSU with a spare to verify it isn't just the PSU even though the DMM readings looked OK. System ran fine with the spare PSU.

Ordered a Fortron SPI 350 (way overkill for this system, but allows for modern motherboard if she manages to save enough money for a budget upgrade):



Her case doesn't have an exhaust fan, so this big 120mm fan on the PSU should help with airflow. Also, the PSU is located directly on top of the CPU, so this fan will be sucking right overtop of the only hot area of the system.

PSU cost: $32.50

I've found that there is really no point in looking at any other PSUs for these replacements, this model and the 400w version are excellent quality and only a couple dollars more than the cheapest POS you can find.













Nice stuff... paint it blue and it's a Blue Storm. Well, almost heheh.

Finished install: New power supply installed, cables managed, dust cleaned, cpu fan cleaned, and added a 80mm fan in the front intake. Cleaned the outside of the case with Windex Multi Surface (Sparkling Orange) -- yellow stained case is now Beige again, looks new. Damn, she's looking empty!

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/7056/aafterocs4ij.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1227/aafteroca1s3pu.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3799/aaftero1s1db.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/5773/aafterm2s1yc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6533/aafterm1s7ju.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9661/aafterc2s0rs.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/4791/aafterc1s8du.jpg[/img]

That was the last repair job I did recently, was a lot of fun doing those cables, totally satisfying... I spent more time taking pics than doing the job lol!

It was actually very easy with that PSU and simple system components. The case layout helps hide most of the BS too.

.

i dont understand how you guys get your cables done up so good. i have tried way too many times to get a clean inside, and what do i get?... ill show you!

any tips!?

LOL!!! I feel your pain...

A drill motor and zip ties do wonders. I if you can't hide em' at least you can route em' and lasso the lil' buggers

Tip:get your cables behind the motherboard tray, or as close as you can.

Very nice work Litho...you be a cable artiste!!!

The reason I can make such nice straight templates and other goodies...it's my job http://www.sheffield-mfg.com

Just click on the products link and pick a category to get a peek at some of the parts we make...I have a very cool owner and can pretty much make whatever I want.

My most ambitious project for the moment is designing my own case from the ground up. I've put at least 80 man hours into the CAD work and it's time consuming when you are trying to make something that will be appealing to EVERYONE. Just not possible So I've moved beyond that mentality and just want to make a case that I will like. Clean. Spacious. Good air flow. Easy to add watercooling. REAL Cable management You know...A nice case!!!

OldGuy and Lithotech: Outstanding work!

Is there something special in the air today that's making people think "get organized'? (I was poking around inside the rig I recently built to see what I could do to clean up the wiring when I saw this thread!)

It takes a lot of patience to get wiring organized, but after that any little change you make seems to disproportionately destroy all your gains! In my case (no pun intended!) I'll be better off just pulling the MB and starting over from scratch!

driff_lock, take a look at my p180, ive put way too much time into organizing this.
first off, for extra psu wires, just shove them underneath the psu where there is a good 1/4 inch area.
go and grap urself a big bag of cable ties and just go crazy, i got 100 pack from newegg for like 5$ and i used it all.


http://img435.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1...kcloseup8eg.jpg

Ripken, that is simply outstanding. The P180 is the most challenging case to really get a clean finish to, and you've done it in spades. I think I've seen a total of TWO examples that match yours, out of hundreds!!

Curious how that Zalman NB47J is working for you? What is your chipset temps normally at idle and load, errr and overclock voltages? Any active cooling passing that way other than the intake? (does the vid card help?).

Do you run with the drive bay out like that?

Man, I have most of my cable stuffed behind that drive bay, I need to leave it in to hide the mess! lol

Mind you, I've used maybe 3 plastic ties, since everything falls into place and most of it is crammed in such a way that it stays put. But if I pop that drive bay out to get at my floppy cable to flash the bios for example, it is a bit of a chore to get it all back.

I can't make it out exactly, but I think you did exactly what I was thinking of doing last night. You pulled that huge fan out of the bottom and put in a regular fan, and that allowed you to pass through wires to the front area of the chamber?? If so... wootage! Finally, a big problem solved for me, except that I kind of liked that fan, super quiet.

I've been agonizing about a couple ways to put the lower chamber fan up front by the filter, leaving that mounting slot completely empty for wires to pass through THEN up into the mobo area. Most of my mess is due to the fact that I am routing a literal ton of cable right past the lower front of the mobo, very ugly and difficult to work with.

One of the only other clean examples of a P180 I've seen did take this fan out and ran without one since he had no HDs down there. It was a major factor in allowing him a number of tricks he used to facilitate a perfectly flawless job of hidden wires.

Here's a link, if you haven't already seen this guys case and work, definately worth a look:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.as...9&enterthread=y

.

To be completely honest, what you have there isn't bad at all. The P180 is one of the most difficult cases to work with for pristine clean cable management, damn near impossible with all the crap I have jacked in to my system. However, cables aside, it is a phenominal case with outstanding quiet cooling. I have mine set up to accept a couple of hard drives at a moments notice, no worries and no hassles looking for cables they are already there ready to go. I sacrificed a bit of cleanliness for that, but it is my main work machine that I game on, not the other way around. Eventually that will change.

Routing behind the mobo isn't an option, at least not with the standoffs that I'm currently using, believe me, I looked just the other night and there is slightly more than 1/8th of an inch clearance. So unless your atx cables are made of ribbon, or your mobo of rubber, it ain't gonna happen.

Having said that, the link I posted in the previous message, that guy originally had all his wires running behind the mobo, with his old PSU. I've NO idea how, I can ONLY assume he somehow got taller standoffs for the mobo. If you can find some please let us know! If I could only route the main atx cable back there a major problem would be eliminated!

I suppose one could find any sort of stud that would fit the thread, and then tap the top for the standoff screws... what say you Oldguy?

So here's what I would suggest, should help a little and get you occupied if not well on your way to a much cleaner look.

1) Like Ripken says, stuff your extra PSU cable above the PSU itself, tons of room up there.

2) Whatever that red wire is draped accross the mobo to the upper left of the case, has to go. I know you let it stay there because you needed it for some reason, and couldn't find another solution. We all run into this problem, it is part of the challenge. The trick is, there is always a solution, you have to stick to your guns and accept that it cannot drape accross the mobo like that and you will find another way! If it is just 4 pin power, try running it down the back of the case, then straight down into the PSU where there is probably an unused molex already waiting for it.

3) The drive bay that goes in front of the upper intake fan has a fairly good storage area behind it when it is installed... use it to store as much cable as possible. You'd be suprised how much cable I have stuffed there in mine, I'll try to get a pic of it and post back here later.

Note: I leave the drive bay itself completely empty, no wires or anything in it (I'm lying, I currently have a wire or two in it, just little ones) to allow unhindered airflow into the case. It is really hard to resist using it as a storage area, and also really tempting to pull it completely out so that the airflow is completly maximized. For me, I chose to use the hidden storage area, and leave the bay empty, and I have no trouble with intake since I also mounted another 120mm in the upper 5.25 drive bays lol.

4) For the drives in the lower chamber, tuck the power connections inbetween the drives. So that if you were looking down on the drives the power wires would look like a letter M where the outsides of the letter are the drives, and the cross in the middle is the wires. Therefore, no wires shall stick outside of the drives, at least not very far and unless they are on their way in or out of the chamber. Here is a great pic of what I mean:

NO!



Yes!



5) OK, so the bottom area is taken care of, and you now have unused storage in the top so lets use it. Start by removing all the smaller wires that should go in last, molex power, 12v power, ide cable, etc. You could leave the sata cable in if it is already nice and out of the way.

Now, pull up all the slack out of the PSU for the main ATX power and all the other heavy PSU cables you have running there. The slack will make it easier to work with. With all the slack up through the hole, plug the 24 pin power cable in, and working from where it plugs in the mobo, force it to go behind the CD drive area and then down in behind the upper drive bay tray (you may want to put the try in for this, don't lock it in, leave it movable).

Making sure the cable stays out of sight, route it down as low as it will go behind the tray, and then finally it has to come out at the bottom. At this point you want it to hug the floor of the chamber all the way to the hole, stuffing any extra slack left over back into the PSU area. Done! Use some ties where it comes out of the tray area to keep it as low as it can go.

You will also notice there is a small storage area on each side of the floppy drive bay, use this area to fasten a cable tie fastener. These are small (1" sqaure) plastic fasteners with sticky tape on one side and a loop on the other. You stick it to the case, and the plastic tie fastens to the loop, wraps around wire, and holds stuff nice. You can get them at any home hardware supply store in packages of 10 or so for a few bucks.

Duplicate the above with the rest of the wires that need to come up to the motherboard.

6) Small wires can be routed under the mobo, definately do so at all times. Use a long stiff plastic tie to push wire through when it doesn't want to play nice.

7) Forgot about the case front panel wires, they should be delt with before PSU ATX. Same deal though, pull out all the slack you can from the front of the case, plug the wires in the mobo, route them under the mobo and behind the drive tray, pull the slack back so they are snug from the mobo to the drive tray, fasten them here with a tie and stuff the excess back in the front of the case.

Good luck, have another whack at it, take some more pics and post back with any questions or more critique. We'd be happy to help.

Just keep in mind, every attempt you make at it you do make some progress, it may not all get done in one session. I'm sure Ripken would agree, this case takes a lot of time to get just right, and you do end up sacrificing things to make other things look clean. The link I posted above, Dynamic did a lot of shortcuts or cheats to get what he wanted... completely OK, anything goes man, no rules to get perfection.

.

Can't use taller standoffs on the mobo...you'd lose the relationship to the IO panel and expansion slots...

Once you pick a height for your standoffs in the design phase everything else is built around that.

EDIT: Some pics of my CAD work. All wire frame at this point...

Heheh, thanks mate!

I think I know what you mean, lol. In fact, I do, since I've done exactly that!

In my earlier work I did need a lot of patience, I used to get really frusterated. But man, I was working stuff like cheap crap PSUs with 6in cables, impossible!!

I think over time you gain experience solving problems and difficulties, and learn tricks and techniques. Eventually, you kind of look at a mess and can guage in you head exactly what you are going to do before even touching the system.

Invariably, you still run into problems you haven;t encountered before, but it isn;t frusterating at all because you have built up confidence from past experience and you know that you can solve just about any issue give time and resources.

My P180 has been incredibly difficult, but instead of getting frusterated I've just run it in a temporary condition where some of the wires were in need of a better solution and others were fine. The system will run fine either way, and as long as I can use it and it won't overheat I can live with it until I get time to have another whack at it.

In fact when I first put the mobo in, I fully intende to pull it out and redo the whole thing. That never happened! I ended up working with what I had.

Here's where I'm at now, still a mess at the bottom but I'm excited that I can clean that up by swapping the lower fan and passing the main AXT cables through the opening near the HDs.

(bunch of other recent pics here starting at post 40: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53642)

My thanks! /blush


OMG, no wonder!!! LOL!



So that pic at the end is really a work in progress? I was wondering about that... it looks only about 3.5-4 inches high, and I don't see room for a mobo... another layer going on top?

I do like the idea of opposing fans, two in and two out, huge movement, very becoming of a person in the aorcraft business lol.

I call it a casebase...As soon as I finished I decided why make part of a case...might as well go all the way



Been in the manufacturing business since I was 16 so I've learned a lil bit in the past 27 years. I sit on my butt most of the day staring at blue prints these days. Feels good to get back out in the shop and actually make something.

LithoTech-thats zalman chipset heatsink idles me around 40, for you it shuld be much better with that fan right there. and u know all those wires coming in from the front panel? the only thing i have plugged in for that is the power+restart button, the rest of the wires i have pushed up behind the 5.25" drive bays, theres a little gap there. and for between the psu and lower hdd bay, i have a 92mm fan mounted there which allows me to pass my cables right by. i also have a 120mm in front of the lower hdd bay, my hdd usually stays below 32C.

That is looking seriously interesting. It's got implications, gives me ideas, I likes it! Looks like a ton of fun to boot!

Thanks for the info!

Good thinking on the 90mm! I'm dying to see a closeup of how you mounted it there... as well as the 120mm up front!

In another thread on the P180, a fellow had to drill out the assembly that is in that area, and like him I can't seem to squeeze a 120mm in there no matter how much I try. Yet someone else in that thread said he got one in without drilling anything, yet disappeared when we all asked him how lol.



So it seems I can kill a few birds with the next stone I toss at this case: different fan mount to replace the zalman bracket, refine top 5.25 drive intake ram cooling fan and paint faceplate, pull lower 120x38mm fan and replace with 92mm adding 120mm up front, remanage cables with new room and finally improve a major mess that is still visible -- and while I am at that I just might pull the mobo and try the zalman heatsink on the chipset since I'll have nearly all the cable out of the way.

Building it up right now Probably tear it back down this weekend then drill out the rivets, put a coat of paint on the main body parts and then back together again...I want the rivets to be very visible. Probably leave the covers silver and put a better grain on em...I like silver accents I need to make a cover for the inside of the case with some cutouts for the cable run...

zip ties, twisty ties (that come with bread bags etc) or even fishing line/black string works wonders.

I prefer black ties of all kinds myself as they blend in real nice in the shadows...

but

I don't buy windowed cases anymore so I don't care what they look like...but I still prefer black ties to hide them lol


you really have to just be anal-retentive about getting your cables and wires out of the way...and use your imagination...just like there's 3 ways or more to open a window in Windows...there's 3 ways or more to route a cable to the place it needs to usually (not always tho).





as for my thoughts on this thread...a sticky should tell you exactly how much I like it (as a guy who owns two CM Stackers and is putting together the second one right now with this:

Asus P5WD2-E Premium LGA775 Intel 975X motherboard
Pentium D 930 (3.0Ghz / 2MB L2 per core)
2x1GB OCZ PC2-8000 (DDR2-1000Mhz) RAM @ 5-5-15-5
2x80GB Hitachi SATA II RAID-0
XFX 7800GTX 256MB PCI-E 16x
Enermax Whisper 600w SLI psu
Thermalright NB-1 northbridge cooler (ya...intel boards still have a NB!)
Vantec 3.5" 4-channel fan controller (18w per chan)
CM Stacker STC-101 (whatever the original model # is lol)
DangerDen TDX copper LGA775 cpu waterblock
DangerDen NV78 copper full-sized gpu waterblock
DDC 12v pump
Black Ice Extreme II dual-120mm radiator
Arctic Cooling 2x120mm fans
SB Audigy PCI sound card)



pretty good system...same one I tested X1900XT Crossfire in...but the 7800GTX waterblock is something I just aint down with removing so I'll put it in this rig and make it my new video workstation lol


which means I will have a 4400+ that has no IHS to fool around with again yay! (as the rig the above is replacing has a bare 4400+ in it!)

Honored with a sticky...Cool

Looking at those memory timings just looks tooooo weird!!!! 5-5-15-5...And the mobo brand....Blasphemous!!!

lol well

ya know...



I still like Asus stuff...and it overclocks pretty well (good enough for me dammit)

Stuckiness? Well wootiageness!

Hmmmm, it's a very nice mobo, feature rich, fully capable and high quality. Comes with a ton of loot too. If one is looking for a change of pace, particularly to abuse an Intel 900 D series cpu, this mobo would be an excellent choice to do it with!

I was looking to put an intel system together for one of my kids at the end of the summer, (that was before I heard about AMD's announced price slash due when intel releases it's new chips in late July). I admit I was looking at Asus boards, but that one is a little rich for me... err my daughter.

Talking about using whats at hand to fasten things, dental floss works wonders. It is in every home, doesn't stretch, doesn't weaken or harden over time or heat, is nonconductive, and nearly invisible.

Isn't it funny how they never put black ties in the variety size/color packs? You get three sizes and four colors, but no black... have to buy them separate.

I pass on windows for myself, I just take the side off, big huge window there, great cooling that way too lol. And when she's sealed up, no one knows what's inside, it looks like a little fridge (P180). Not all my clients would appreciate what's inside, it's like they wouldn't like their car tuned up by a mechanic that drives a sedan with a blown bigblock and open headers.

Great looking cases!