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Finding the open in a Cat5e cable run


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#1 Scott P

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 09:01 AM

Our house was pre-wired with Cat5e when it was built, but installing jacks was not included in the deal. I've successfully toned and installed installed ports in a couple rooms, but haven't done them all yet. I am trying to put in a port by the entertainment center, but am unable to get a connection. The tester I have is showing an open on Wire 1. I've installed the keystone jacks several times, so I don't think it is the jacks themselves. That seems to leave the cable itself. Is there an easy way for me to find the open in the wire? Am I looking at trying to make a whole new run?


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#2 wevsspot

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 09:15 AM

Since other wires in the run seem to be testing fine I think we can rule out cross talk interference with electrical wiring or parallel runs of CAT (even though one of the primary purposes of 5e standard was to reduce that potential in the first place).  If all of the cable was accessible you could inspect for physical damage to the cable (i.e. pulled too tight through a stud or perhaps even a nail or staple ran through the wire somewhere).  If you can't inspect the entire run of cable then you're pretty much stuck with making a new run without being able to confirm where the break actually is.

 

Depending on the electrical codes in your city, county and state - the CAT may or may not be affixed by anchor points - in which case you might be able to pull a new run by getting a length of new cable, attaching it to the old and pulling/snaking the new run through the same holes.  However, it's possible that a good electrician used plastic anchors along the runs to hold the CAT up against wall studs / floor joists etc.

 

Good luck.


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#3 Scott P

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 03:12 PM

I was afraid of that answer. The wire runs from a closet upstairs through three attic spaces (only two accessible) and though the walls. I do not know if they are attached to the studs in the walls or not . The components I want to network are already wireless, but I wanted a wired connection for reliability as my TV and BD Player tend to drop the signal on Netflix once in a while.


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#4 wevsspot

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 12:43 PM

I understand.  I pulled a new run specifically for my HTPC.  It was a pain in the arse.  No basement, but a mult-level home with only two rooms accessible through the attic.  My final solution was to pull a run through the nearest wall, then hide the cable from that wall to the next room under the baseboard trim.  Fortunately when I built the house I left about 1/2" between the bottom of the drywall and floors.


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#5 bishop245

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 04:01 PM

I own a Fluke micro scanner 2 and it has told me how many feet away the fault was in the past, but keep in mind this tool aint cheap



#6 Nerm

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 04:05 PM

I own a Fluke micro scanner 2 and it has told me how many feet away the fault was in the past, but keep in mind this tool aint cheap


:withstupid: tools like those are priceless at times.

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#7 wevsspot

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:00 AM

Around $500 priceless  :)


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#8 Scott P

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 09:30 AM

I got lucky here. There was another cable in that wall that feeds the master bedroom. I fed new line from that outlet and used the drop to connect to the network. Everything works fine. I installed an extra jack on the wall plate so if the bedroom wants to be connected, I can just plug into the switch at the entertainment center.


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#9 olokul

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Posted 23 January 2013 - 10:11 AM

I own a Fluke micro scanner 2 and it has told me how many feet away the fault was in the past, but keep in mind this tool aint cheap

 

 

I just ordered the Fluke MicroScanner2 Termination & Test Kit very $$ but worth every penny.   saved my butt a few times already


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