better cooling for my evga gtx 570 hd

[rieds]

is there anything i can do to make my overclocked gtx 570 run cooler without getting into water cooling? would some heatsinks on the vrm's and memory with a fan blowing across them  and one of the cheaper gpu air coolers work any better than the stock cooler? 

[Nyt]

I'm assuming your warranty is nearly over/already over ?

If there still is warranty, then it is void if the manufacturer can determine that an aftermarket cooler caused the damage (unlikely).

But normally putting the stock cooler back on before sending it for RMA helps.

 

Using an Arctic Accelero cooler (like the Twin Turbo) helps quite a lot with GPU core temperatures.

But if your reference cooler is a vapor chamber design, then replacing it with an aftermarket air cooler will increase your VRM temps.

This is because a vapor chamber normally cools the VRMs better than aftermarket coolers which use little aluminium heatsinks with thermal pads on the VRMs.

And if you don't have a dual GPU card, you normally can't monitor the VRM temps yourself so you have to hope for the best.

 

Have a look here too : http://www.overclock.net/t/985134/ac-xtreme-plus-and-vr004-review-gtx570-poof-update#post_13040479

I'm not too sure that the Accelero cooler was solely responsible for that guy's GTX570 VRMs frying, but increased VRM temps might contribute to it.

 

If I remember correctly, El_Capitan ran a pair of GTX570s with a GPU waterblock and heatsinks on the VRMs with no problems though. 

 

Also, you might want to try replacing the stock thermal paste on your stock cooler with some higher performance thermal paste as that might help a bit as after 2-3 years the paste might dry out and crumble. 

[rieds]

i have some swiftech heatinks on my gtx 580 vrm's and memory attached with thermal epoxy with a noctua fan blowing across them and it keeps them around 50c at full load overclocked so i figured i could do the same with my 570. the warranty is up on it so i don't have to worry about that. ive seen some copper heatpipe and heatsinks with duel fan setups for gpu's but didn't know if that would work any better than the stock cooler. this card is in my backup rig so i didn't want to spend 200-300 on a custom cooled water setup. another option i was looking at was the nzxt cracken g10 and one of the cheaper all in one cpu water coolers. i also thought about checkin into wether i could use the stock cooler off of a superclocked or classified gtx570. what would be a good source of information on the specs for the different evga gtx570 cards to see if thats an option? nevermind i looked at some of the other evga gtx570 cards and they all have the same one fan cooler design.

Edited May 11, 2014 by rieds

[IVIYTH0S]

If you're willing to throw money at cooling, why not virtually add that money + what you'd get for selling your 570 and get a card that's equal or better but cooler

[rieds]

will a 3.0 card work on a board with 2.0? its a socket 775 p45 chipset.

[SpikeSoprano]

Yes it will work fine but you'll only get 2.0 speed, which is really not much if any difference.

[wevsspot]

Rieds, there are a few things you can try that cost little or nothing to implement.

 

1. Remove the factory heatsink, clean the OEM thermal paste from the processor core and heatsink and then re-apply a good aftermarket thermal paste

2. Create a custom fan profile that favors cooling over noise - you can use PrecisionX or Afterburner to create a fan profile that loads on startup

3. If your case has a spot in the side panel for a 120mm or 140mm fan, go ahead and add a fan that blows directly towards the video card

[bigball1]

3. If your case has a spot in the side panel for a 120mm or 140mm fan, go ahead and add a fan that blows directly towards the video card

 

Just this alone l have seen cards drop 10c+. I would start off doing this.

[rieds]

i have some fans im not using so im gonna try putting some better thermal paste on the gpu. i dont have the greatest fan setup in the case. just one intake on the front and one exhaust on the back. i have the best of the v coolers on the cpu cant remember which model just remember its the highest rated of the bunch. the exhaust fan is only a inch away from it. ill put another intake on the bottom and one in the side. theres a spot there that will blow right on the gpu. and another exhaust on the top. im sure the one on the back with the push pull fans on the cpu takes care of most of the heat from the cpu but i can tell most of the heat from the gpu is getting sucked in the cpu push fan cause the cpu temp goes up about 6 or 7 degrees when the gpu is under full load. i just put this card in this rig so i never had to worry about temps much. should i take a razor blade and go around the gpu heatplate and pull it off and replace the thermal paste under there too?     

[El_Capitan]

Main thing would be to open it up and:

1. Get rid of any dust accumulation on the fan and PCB. I see this happen a lot, and will affect temps.

2. Clean up the factory TIM and put new TIM, preferably something that lasts a long time (like Arctic MX-2 or MX-4, and not Arctic Silver 5, etc.).

 

That should help decrease the bulk of your temperatures.

 

3. If you have a blower card, the blower intakes air and expels it out the side. If you can use a fan or two to push cooler air towards that intake fan, you can also get better results.

 

If you have a dual or triple fan, it's trickier. All the fans are still intake (it's different than newer dual fan setup cards), so while getting cooler air towards the intake might help for a while, it's more important to get the heat buildup outside of the case. For this situation, I usually get a fan to push cooler air from the bottom of the case up towards the intake fans on the GPU, and use another fan to exhaust the case air out the side panel. However, this may not work depending on your case. If your case is a bottom mounted PSU location and you don't have a side panel, this won't work,

 

4. Last, but not least, is fixing your voltages. If you're running everything at stock, that means you're also on stock voltages. That's usually a couple 100 mV's over what it needs. For example, your stock voltages might be 1.05V's. You might be able to run stock clocks stable as low as 0.98V's. That will drastically lower your temperatures as well.

 

Hope that helps.

 

I'm assuming your warranty is nearly over/already over ?

If there still is warranty, then it is void if the manufacturer can determine that an aftermarket cooler caused the damage (unlikely).

But normally putting the stock cooler back on before sending it for RMA helps.

 

Using an Arctic Accelero cooler (like the Twin Turbo) helps quite a lot with GPU core temperatures.

But if your reference cooler is a vapor chamber design, then replacing it with an aftermarket air cooler will increase your VRM temps.

This is because a vapor chamber normally cools the VRMs better than aftermarket coolers which use little aluminium heatsinks with thermal pads on the VRMs.

And if you don't have a dual GPU card, you normally can't monitor the VRM temps yourself so you have to hope for the best.

 

Have a look here too : http://www.overclock.net/t/985134/ac-xtreme-plus-and-vr004-review-gtx570-poof-update#post_13040479

I'm not too sure that the Accelero cooler was solely responsible for that guy's GTX570 VRMs frying, but increased VRM temps might contribute to it.

 

If I remember correctly, El_Capitan ran a pair of GTX570s with a GPU waterblock and heatsinks on the VRMs with no problems though. 

 

They were GTX 460 1GB's I did that on, although I did put a 80mm fan to blow air across the VRM's. Same could be done on the GTX 570, I'm sure.

Edited May 12, 2014 by El_Capitan

[rieds]

I didn't realise it's best to use something besides artic silver 5. Should I take the heatplate off the gpu and replace the Tim under there too?

[El_Capitan]

I didn't realise it's best to use something besides artic silver 5. Should I take the heatplate off the gpu and replace the Tim under there too?

 

Arctic Silver 5 isn't bad. It just has a cure time, and it becomes dry after 6+ months (varies depending on the situation). Those are the only 2 drawbacks, plus there's plenty of other TIM that's just as good or better, with no cure time, and where you don't have to re-apply nearly as often.

 

I don't know what you mean by heatplate. Basically, this is what I'm talking about:

http://computerhardwareupgrades.blogspot.com/2012/10/replacing-stock-tim-on-msi-hd-7850-pe.html