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SebringTech

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  • Computer Specs
    Case: Antec Nine Hundred
    Mainboard: Gigabyte GA-G31M
    CPU Cooler: Zalman 9700LED
    Memory: OCZ Reaper - 2 x 2 gig
    CPU: Intel Q6600 G0 2.4ghz @ 3.52ghz - 32C idle 52C Full Load

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  1. I tried reseating the heatsink following the screw order shown in the manual. It's definately on good, and I also used less thermal paste than I did before incase I applied too much. Still idles in the 50's according to CoreTemp. I think I have a bad sensor.
  2. Well, I literally just took a screen shot to show my friend the temps, obviously HP does some screwy stuff with their boards. In the second picture SpeedFan is showing the correct vCore at 1.4 volts. Yeah, at 2.1 volts I'd have a cooked cpu. I did hook the pump up to the molex connector just in case, it made no change. I don't see mounting without the Arctic Silver as a good idea, I've always used it, but I guess it's possible I put too much and perhaps it's acting as an insulator. I think the likely problem is that the CPU's sensors are shot. BIOS shows a boot temp of about 30c. I don't know how that temperature would sound for the CPU, this is my fist AMD chip in a looooooong time.
  3. Adding Pictures for the Temperature readings. The first is in the HP case and on the HP motherboard. The second is in the Antec 300 case and Asus EVO motherboard.
  4. I recently bought a Corsair H50 contained water cooling kit for my computer. I had it on an HP branded AMD Athlon II x 4 CPU. When it was on the factory HP motherboard, it was reading idle temps of 13c to 15c. I will note that the fan on the small radiator was replaced with a Scythe Ultra Kaze, because I didn't feel the factory fan was enough. I recently upgraded to a better case with more air flow (Antec 300), and a better motherbaord (Asus M4A785TD-V EVO). The problem: CoreTemp now shows my idle temps being 54c. I'm starting to think it may be a problem with CoreTemp itself. It is reading the Tj. Max for the CPU as being 99c which I know is impossible. I have done the following: turned off Cool 'n Quiet, reseated the cooler using Arctic Silver 5, removed the fan controller ensuring the radiator fan is going 100% speed. The only other thing I can think of is if the water cooling pump, being connected to a fan spot on the motherboard, is not getting 12 volts. I will use an adapter to hook it to a molex so there's no chance the motherboard is meddling with it. I know I read somewhere that the pump MUST have 12 volts. Any other information would be greatly appreciated. I've always liked CoreTemp, but this seems really strange. I'm running Wiundows 7 x64.
  5. Depending on the software you use, it may or may not be worth it. If you use programs such as Photoshop, As of CS4 there is a 64 bit version that is able to make use of the 64 bit OS and extra memory. From my experience in the past I just used the 32 bit and lived with having less memory. With the x64 OS it has Program Files and Program Files x86. My technical knowledge of how the additional memory addressing on the 64 bit editions works is limited, but almost all my games and programs (besides Photoshop) were being installed as 32 bit in the program files x86 folder. So in my case, I didn't see much of any improvement. A lot of games are still coded for 32 bit OS. For another example, to the best of my knowledge World of Warcraft does not take advantage of much of any new technology. For the longest time it only used 1 core, I think it supports dual core now, but it still doesn't fully support dual video card like SLI and Crossfire technology. IMO, unless you're like me and had a rig with 12 gigs of ram, stick with the 32 bit, especially if you have 32 bit now and would have to buy the 64 bit OS. The price to performance ratio just wouldn't pay off. Just my $0.02 :thumbs-up:
  6. http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=proddesc...amp;prod_no=196 That is my exact board on MSI's website. Is there anything anyone can see on the description that would keep anything other than XP from working properly? I don't want to buy a new board for an already outdated cpu, that'd be pretty pointless. I see it says designed for Windows XP, and that due to the chipset it can't run anything like 98/ME. But that shouldn't keep it from going to a newer OS should it? The board supports my 925 cpu with the bios updated. I have bios version 1.5 - online newest version is 1.5 so that's up to date. I only have 2 gigs of DDR2 installed, and I'm only trying to install the x86 version of Vista/7. The tower has no problems at all with Windows XP Professional. Nothing is currently overclocked - BIOS has optimized defaults loaded (with exception to disabling the floppy drive it enables by default.) I'm about to chuck the stupid thing out the window. EDIT: The only thing I can even remotely think of being a possible problem would by my cheapo power supply. It's a Dynex 400watt psu that I picked up for cheap @ Best Buy a long while back. I don't see how it could be the problem since XP boots without a problem though. :-\ The Windows 7 install completely finishes, it even goes through all the setup stuff like network, user name & password, detecting video performance, ect after the installation. I've tried replacing the video card hoping it might be the problem - with no luck. Then again the 4830 should work on 7 anyways.
  7. okay I'm really getting pissed off now. I've set all my bios settings back to defaults (no overclocking of any kind). I tried a fresh install of Windows 7, it does the reboot cycle. I then decided to try and install Vista, to my great annoyance Vista does the same thing. It will just reboot over and over. This is truly sad. There's no reason that this computer shouldn't run Windows 7, let alone Windows Vista. I don't see how it can be a hardware issue when XP will work perfectly, stress tests and all. But it can't install Vista / 7. Guess I'll be sending a nasty email to MSI and see what the heck is up. The only thing I can think of is if something is screwy with the support for the board. the P45 Neo was a fairly popular board I thought :-\ Don't see why it's not working.
  8. I know I can't upgrade from XP to Windows 7, my plan of action was clean install of XP->Upgrade to Vista->Upgrade Vista to 7. I might try reinstalling 7 with no overclocking, but it's only overclocked a few hundred mhz. 3.0 -> 3.3ghz. Not anything huge. My RAM passed a memtest check, I only have 2 gigs of ram, so I only plan to run x86 OS. I didn't even consider that the OC might be the problem, but my Q6600 was overclocked 1ghz and installed 7 fine. Granted the components in that build were much much better quality than this makeshift tower that's only meant to last me till the end of June.
  9. I think I have a copy of Vista that should upgrade. guess I'll find out if it will or not. lol I figure if I can get Vista on, it should upgrade to 7. Then again 7 should clean install without the hassle -.- I might try to slip the drivers onto the 7 install disc and see if it's a driver issue. I just am having rotten luck getting the software from Microsoft to do it. Was so easy using nLite and vLite.
  10. As dirty as it would make me feel, any opinions on if it might help to *cringe* upgrade to Vista, then upgrade Vista to Windows 7? I hate the very thought of Vista going on the system.. but my end goal is Windows 7.
  11. I have Windows XP on my desktop, but I want to go to Windows 7. The copy I have is from the college I attend, so it's a good copy. It boots from the DVD, installs fine, reboots to show the loading screen. Right when it should show the welcome screen after install, it reboots. Scans memory, drives, shows loading screen, reboots again. Over and over, endless cycle. My desktop is older, but meets every requirement for Windows 7, my wife's desktop is older and runs Windows 7 fine. I can't figure this out. I've tried getting a different copy of the disc, switching optical drives out, ect. Nothing seems to work. System having the problem: Pentium D 925 @ 3.2ghz MSI 945P Neo motherboard 2 gig OCZ DDR2 ATI Radeon 4830 SATA optical drive and hard drive This particular motherboard I believe I made a slipstreamed version of XP for it, with it's raid drivers. But with XP it wouldn't see the hard drive and that's why it needed the driver. I don't know what could be causing the endless reboot. Any help would be simply epic, since I'd really like to switch to 7.
  12. So is it safe to guess from that picture that temp1 would be the CPU? I'd hope it's not temp2 since that's obviously not getting a right value. The other ones make sense.
  13. I just recently upgraded from a P4 HT CPU (I know, lame) to a Pentium D 920 (I know, STILL lame). I have it overclocked about 10%, just a modest 3.3ghz. I only paid $25 for the CPU so I don't need it to last long, but I'd like to keep it for a lil while to make into my file server when I upgrade to a new build this summer. When I bought the CPU, I picked up a Cooler Master V8 for $15 (wouldn't pay the price for a new one, but this one is just like new with all mounting stuff so I figured a fair deal). So I think I have a decent cooler for the kind of budget build I'm on right now. lol I recently was trying to use several programs to pick up the temp of the CPU so I could monitor it. I have had no luck at all. I've tried the latest version of CoreTemp but it came up saying unsupported processor. I tried CPUID Hardware Monitor, it is showing a reading, but I have a real hard time believing with 5 system fans, the decent heatsink, and a very cold AC'd room that the chip is running at 117c. I know the Pentium D's run hot, but if that's accurate, WOW. Is there any available free app that would pull the cpu temp? HardWare Monitor is saying my sensor is: Winbond W83627THF. I'm running Windows XP Professional x86, and my motherboard is a MSI P35 Neo. If the temps in CPUID HardwareMonitor are accurate at 117c, what's the max safe temp for this 925 chip? I'm used to my previous build of a Q6600 that had a chilly idle temp of 40c even with a 1ghz overclock. o.O Thanks for any help that you may be able to provide.
  14. I had an i7 920 for a while. I had it OC'd to 3.67 ghz and I was happy with that. I know no one really likes the cooler I used, the Cooler Master V10. I wouldn't recommend it, but I personally liked it, it kept the CPU cool for me, and it kept my ram chilled too. Obviously there's much better coolers, and much better performance to cost ratio. I've used the TRUE 120 Xtreme black on my Core 2 Quad Q6600 and overclocked that cpu from 2.4 to 3.44 ghz and still had a cool 40c idle and around 55c under load. Granted on that cooler I had two Ultra Kaze fans in a push - pull setup. As anyone will tell ya, every chip is different in regards to how it will overclock.A lot also has to do with a solid high quality board and power supply. I just got lucky with that chip and had one with a need for speed :-p Just take your time overclocking and stability testing to where you get the lowest vcore but yet still stable. That was the hardest part when I overclocked my i7 920. I could get it pretty stable at a high OC but it was taking too much vcore to be stable and resulted in way too much heat. I made it a goal to never let mine get over 60c.
  15. Okay after more searching it seems mild soap and water for detergent, nothing that has ammonia, and a shammy is what people seem to recommend. I decided to use that method. I put a couple small squirts of dish detergent into a two gallon bucket of warm water and used a shamwow **yes they really DO have some kind of use** to clean the case up. The soap left no kinds of residue and the shamwow made a soft cleaning tool. Just let it air dry and it's all nice and shiny :-)
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