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exangel

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About exangel

  • Birthday 09/03/1983

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    exangel83

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    Female
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    Tucson, Arizona

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  1. I haven't crashed. I ran OCCT for an hour when I meant to nap.. but I slept for about 6 hours o.O If it was going to crash it probably would've during that hour, but I'm gonna give it 24 hrs of use before I try OC's again with manual voltage adjustment. I'm reading more about my processor and OC'ing by FSB seems to be more highly recommended than multiplier. With OCCT my temps ran higher than they ever got with Cinebench (42ish) though, peaking at 50 and staying around 48c in an apartment with the refrigerated air keeping the room temperature at around 68f. Cinebench uses all 6 cores to 100% too but my CPU completes it too quickly to gauge properly, or so it appears (even when I ran it a few times in a row). I've got NO real-world environment where I'll be utilizing the processor anywhere near a consistent 100% though. With so many others reporting OC by multiplier adjustment to this CPU's default turbo setting & no voltage increase being stable I was pretty disappointed by the recent crashes when I had that configuration. Edit: I spoke wayyyyy too soon. I just had Firefox 6 crash when attempting to close the window and then Paint.NET crashed when I tried to close that as well. The first crash while it was OC'd was started by a freeze of Firefox 6 but the second started with the freeze of an Aion game client. I recovered from this crash without the system freezing though. On my previous system Firefox 6 was never unstable and I ran 2 Aion clients as often as my browser so I'm thinking this is still a problem on my end and not necessarily with the CPU/voltage. Maybe I should set the memory down to 1333 as some say is preferred by the Thubans.
  2. Well, I know that it's 1024, and that's why I remarked that CPU-Z reports the accurate 8192 I expected. My BIOS post screen seems off by a meg or two when the memory check finishes. Within the configuration settings in BIOS it says pretty much what CPU-Z says. Every time I've booted since making this build, the All CPU Meter gadget has shown 8189 though. I'm wondering if there's a problem I should seek to correct that's causing the discrepancy. I've never had a system with 8 GB before (previous build ran with 4 (2x2GB DC) but with all of the builds I've done in the past 10 years I've never experienced ANY memory size discrepancy in a machine without IGP graphics. Since my memory isn't posting at exactly 8192 I'm also slightly concerned. Never had it be off before, like I said. I've done somewhere between 15 and 20 full builds and heavy modifications. Edit: I've had a crash (while running two Aion game clients, first one froze, then the system slowly locked up when I tried to get to the task manager..) since my original post. I'm returning the machine to optimized defaults. (only non-defaults at time of crash was disabled Cool'n'Quiet/Hardware Temperature Protection & bump up the multiplier to 18 for my CPU. the board is designed to do voltage control automatically) I have also checked with my MoBo manufacturer and I have the current BIOS. Hmm.
  3. For any clarification, the build included: GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 AM3+ AMD 990X SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) (@1600 Dual Channel due to AM3 CPU limitation) Just wondering why I wind up with my system info (actually, the "All CPU Meter" gadget for Windows desktop) showing ever-so-slightly less RAM than I expected, if anyone can explain. CPU-Z still reports 8192 megabytes. Every place I've looked in Windows 7 (System Control Panel, System Info) reads 8.00GB with no detail. For extra credit, if anyone would mind, have a look at that CPU-Z dump & tell me if there's anything I should do manually to improve my RAM settings (which were actually set to 1600 rather than 1333 by default according to the bios). I haven't had an enthusiast system for a LONG time and I haven't gotten to researching that part yet. I don't really remember anything about tweaking RAM. Full build spec in spoiler for those curious. I don't recall how recently I've messed with my old sig, it may get left there for amusement.
  4. Yeah, that's me. It's my birthday today! I'm 21. On topic, that google result was exactly why I posted this question here. All the results are just other forum threads except that Sharky article which answers nothing at all for me, since I am looking only at Socket A >< btw Thank you, everyone, I have some perspective now ^^
  5. yeah, i thought it was 256kb. I already have a machine with an XP Mobile 2600+ and its the greatest value I've ever bought (*cough* forced my bf to buy for me *cough*) I was honestly just wondering if anyone around here had done it, as I expect its price to drop in a while and thought it might be a nice new toy to tweak with. I probably will just get another XP Mobile.. but I'm still curious about the Sempron.
  6. Google has not turned up much in the way of people results overclocking the Semprons. I'm curious since I am going to be on a very strict budget for my upcoming folding machine and I would rather get the 333 FSB Sempron than the Thoroughbreds in my price range... Would it be the same as OCing a Duron? Does anyone know if it will have any sort of OCing lock(s)? Thanks.
  7. ASUS have been nothing but perfection for me and all of my friends regard them as best mid/high range for AMD ;_; I will never argue that DFI is better because I've never seen or touched one.
  8. if you /might/ use sata raid in the future the controllers are cheap get an A7N8X-X for $66 at the newegg
  9. Wow the price has really dropped. ;_; I only bought it 2 months ago for at least $200! But I bought it at OfficeMax I think. You shouldn't hesitate on this printer just because it costs less. The way they manufacture these these days, you should start to consider a printer as something that expires the way a desktop system does, not a long term purchase like a monitor. They have low manufacturing cost on even very good printers, and make ALL their bank selling cartridges. One of the plus sides to this printer is that its cartridges are not as expensive as some, because it uses cartridges from a handful of common mainstream consumer printers. I'm really only reccommending it for frequent text printing/web page printing, and for anyone who might want to use it as a removable media drive as well. It's also a decent copier and I have scanned a photo with it in very high resolution with satisfactory results. It's probably only going to have a drawback with using a different, expensive photo cartridge for photo-image printing, but I don't know anyone who prints their own /photographs/ on anything other than a dedicated photo printer unless they have 8x10s printed at walgreens. Just pay attention to its monthly use cycle, if you plan on printing more frequently than it specifies, it will wear out more quickly than 2 or 3 years. But the way my father and I have thought about printers for a while now is that printing technology can only advance so much before the prices drop significantly, and you can buy cheap, fast printers but they're still selling you tons of cartridges. The models they will be selling in 2 or 3 years may have higher resolution scanners, even faster output, support more media types, and do better photo image printing.. but consumer printers are always going to be like this. Even laser printers are far, far cheaper than they were 4 or 5 years ago. If you consider it that important investment that you WANT to spend more money, you should get a laser printer for text printing and an inkjet for color only. Or even get a color laser, why not?
  10. Lighten up. I also happen to think its a frivolous luxury and could afford to get an A64 and a nForce3 mobo or a P4 and a new mobo if I wanted to, honestly, but theres really no reason to waste my income like that when I'm saving to buy a house and a WEGA projection TV with my boyfriend. It's as if I drove a lexus and decided hmm I should get an H2, that'll really show up my buddies at poker night. I already get more than satisfactory benchmarks and use my computer constantly for gaming, graphics editing, and using the horribly inefficient and resource hogging program called Outlook that just happens to have all the features I need in communications... ;_; but it handles it all, and gorgeously so. Resent me calling geeks poorer for having XP's? Gimme a break. I was referring to myself, and the original poster, and I never pointed at you. Congratulations DBZ, sounds like you've got it down fine. Your temps should improve for about 2 weeks of uptime, slowly but surely. ^-^ I am jealous of your temp, I run abnormally hot for someone with a Volcano 12, but it's because I can't get a stable overclock at any lower than 1.85 voltage for 11x200. I also don't run the fan at full speed though it brings the temp down better just because it gets Really loud any higher than 4k RPM.
  11. I would recommend my PSC1350v if you do any digital photography or use any type of flash cards because it has removable media for CF, SD, MMC, Memory Stick, SmartMedia, and xD. That's why it cost around $200-250. I think the price has dropped significantly since I got mine. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documen...cname=c00033421
  12. Since all I care about is P4/AMD64, thats the part I read. The other part where you smear it with a card or whatever is for old AMD32 CPUs. I lap the heat sink with Ceramique and apply the AS5 to the core as instructed. I'm sure other methods are good as well, but mine definitely work. The original poster never said he had a P4 or A64, so I assumed it was an XP like most of us poorer geeks. >< Sounds like you know your stuff. *kneel*
  13. The HP I have is really fast and has 6 different Ink-saving modes. Mine was a little more expensive than yours but I imagine that yours will be just as fast as mine, especially since you'd probably use a faster (lower ink) print mode since they are only flyers and not presentation portfolios.. i wonder why my sig hasnt been showing up in my posts? oh i figured it out.. they must have it set so that signature only shows up on someone's first post in the thread to save bandwidth/page length..?
  14. Maybe if you're lazy, and have a superflawless hyperfine grit lapping job done on your HS you can skip it and have the same result as if you had rubbed the AS5 into the heat sink... Just do it for good luck?
  15. That's not true. there isnt enough pressure on the die from the heatsink being latched to the board with a spring to "squeeze out the excess" though it may seem tight to you. It's very hard to get the right amount on with precision, and too much would cause an unnecessary buildup around the edges of the die which would inhibit efficiency as well. Thermal transfer in this case is about the precision of the contact.. you gotta be careful as a jeweler is. You can always remove the excess and reapply until you get it right but you will not see the peak thermal efficiency of AS5 for about 3 weeks! It WILL make a difference right away but the bond improves to a cure about 2 weeks of cpu-on time. I would definitely not reccommend GT's method for AS5. It's fine with Ceramique. But not AS5. It is hard to get the layer perfectly thin without any depressions in it with a razorblade or a CC (I used my Gamestop card) so take your time. Don't you guys read the website's instructions? Sorry if I seem anal but if you're going to even bother getting into this much detail in CPU cooling, why not be a perfectionist?
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