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Tokey

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  1. Yikes, you're on air at those temps? I've using the stock hsf and at 1.575V cpu I can't get above 240 without stability issues. At 250 I hit 70 degrees under extreeme load. Higher than 250 and it won't boot. Good job on that overclock!
  2. I'm so indecisive right now. Dropped a lot of cash last week on building this PC, and it looks like a "good" water system would run about another $300. That and I don't understand what a pentier is, and if I need one or not, so I'm not sure if I would be buying everything I need. My case is only a medium size tower, so if I got into water I'd also need a new case to make it fit. Dangerden does have a "kit" that sells for $200. It's their power kit and looks like it has everything you need except for the video card cooling, which would only be another $50. Lol, i'm talking myself into water again I guess what I'm asking is this: what is water really going to get me over air? Will I get another $200 in performance out of it, or it is not that much of a difference? I'm assuming with air, I'll be able to get my video card higher than 410/340. What would be reasonable with water? I know my cpu tems will benefit greatly from water, i'm only stable in prime95 at 240fsb and lower... so how's the video card going to do water vs. air?
  3. run the dangerden from the koolance, or use it completely seperate from the coolance, so I would have dedicated water cooling for the cpu and the vid card? Sounds crazy!
  4. Well that makes my day I realized i'm running at 68 degrees CPU on load though, so I do need some new cooling fast. Rather than spend $50 for a cpu fan, and another $40 for a vid card fan, I'm thinking I might as well go water cooling. 2 that caught my eye are the corsair hydrocool, and the koolance case. I guess they both caught my eye because they are complete kits and seem idiot proof. So... if I do go water, I could also cool my card and I should be able to do much better all around? Are either of those good choices?
  5. Alright, got it to 410/345 with no artifacts. I'm pretty disappointed in my ram, I thought I could get at least 360 with it. I have 2 more of these 9800 non pro's with the samsung ram laying around, i'll try both of them and see if I can get it higher, but here's what I got with the card in there. Snagged a 6200 in 3dMark03 though, which i'm happy about. I was only at 5000 before I overclocked my video card. I used ATITool to do it... seems like a good program. Is there anything better out there? http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=2013331
  6. Well, considering the XT is 365 I'd be thrilled to get something like that in the 355-370 range. I know the engine speed is 325, so would 400 be something within reach? If I could hit 400/360 I'd be pretty crap happy, but I'm going to do what I can to get over 6K in 3dmark.
  7. Thanks for the reply. I've been looking into water cooling, but since my 245 is not being limited by temperature (only 50 at load) I don't really see the point right now so I'm going to stick with air. I'll push it tonight and see what I can come up with. How does everyone determine stability? Just look for artifacts?
  8. Updated the bios last night from 1.0 to 1.9 and.... yay I have overclock sticking in windows. Now the problem becomes, even though I'm setting ram to 400mhz in bios, it's showing 1:1 in cpu-z in windows. System won't even boot at 250fsb. At 240fsb I can get it to boot just fine, but that speed is going to kill my PC3200. Anyone have a problem like this before? Should I believe what CPU-Z is telling me? In a perfect world I'd be running 250fsb in 5:4
  9. Yea you're right, his problem isn't temperature related. We shut it off overnight, and when we booted it in the morning, it did the same thing (I have the bios set to 225fsb now to be safe). Showed 2.7Ghz on the boot up, and then when I got to windows clocked an even 2.4 I'm gonna try reinstalling windows tonight on a spare drive to be safe, and if that doesn't work I guess he'll need a new motherboard.
  10. Try clearing the CMOS. If you can find your mobo jumper sheet that is... If you do that and it still doesn't boot, you fried your mobo. If it was your chip, you would still get the bios.
  11. Yea he was on stock cooling. Since October it's never been a problem, but I'm thinking because the PC was left on for over a week with poor "stock" cooling and a very bad very cheap case with only 1 fan in it, it just got too warm over time. Is that not a good water cooler? I was gonna order one for my rig too. I don't really want "the best" but I want one that's easy to use, I'm not shooting for crazy overclocks or anything (250-260 FSB on his). Tom's gave it a good review, which is why I chose that one. edit: when I checked in the bios the chip was about 63 degrees C. That's pretty warm for a P4 right? The highest I've seen it before that has been in the low 50's.
  12. FYI I figured this out. He had left his system on for over a week without shutting it off, and running stock cooling and a 250mhz FSB was a bit much for it, so the temps got really hot. So it was registering the correct speed when I was booting, but was turning itself down to it's rated speed to keep it from getting too hot. I just ordered him a Corsair Water Cooler, so he should be all set now.
  13. I think a reformat is in order, just to be safe. I do have a IC7 and 2.6C coming in 4 days, so I'm going to put his chip in the IC7 and the 2.6 in his MSI and see what happens. That way I'll be able to know forsure if it's the motherboard that's messed up. I might try clearing the CMOS too, but I'm too lazy to take the case apart at the moment.
  14. It's only PC3200 so I don't want to go over 400 if I don't have to. When I tried to up it to 205 I left it in 1:1 though, so it should have been 820 bios/ 410 ram, but it was 800/400 I'm starting to think it's defective for some reason. I've overclocked a dozen computers with no trouble before, and there's no explanation that I can think of for this.
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