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Exactly. It's like having a smaller engine and saying it makes more power than others just because it spins to 8000 RPM. If it's only making 150 HP at that speed, a boosted larger engine could make twice that power at 2500 RPM. It's all about the card you're running, not the speed it's running at.

If you're planning on running SLI in the future, reconsider your choice of motherboards as SLI is not supported on P35 chipsets. As motherboards can get pricey as you climb into SLI compatibility, you could also consider switching to an ATi board (HD3870 would be around your price range) and go Crossfire with the P35 chipset. An X38 board would be better for Crossfire, but you might as well go with the 780i boards for SLI because they'll be around the same price. EDIT: philbrown beat me to it ;P

Definitely try installing one of the more problematic games on your storage drive and see if it fixes the problem. If so, your raptors are acting up.

In a reply on the first video he said 19,000. I'd love to see proof of that with a single 8800gts.

Thanks for the responses guys davidst converted me with his 2nd link, I'm going with a 22"! Just did some measurements and it will fit my desk like a glove.

So I've grown sick of playing games on my fading Samsung 17" CRT. It just doesn't do my HD3870 justice, and my desk space is limited as it is I'm in the market for a 19" widescreen LCD with a decent response time, say 5ms or less, and good image quality for gaming and some photo editing. My target is around $180. Anyone have my perfect match? Thanks!

If you're not overclocking your card any more the stock fan speed should be fine. Running the fan at a higher speed won't "kill" the card by any means, it will just be a lot louder Glad to see your computer is game ready finally! I went from a score of 600 with my x1300 to 12204 with my HD3870

COD4 was epic. You could just tell the developers had fun making the game. Online was fun for awhile but IMO all the game modes are basically the same. At least they're played that way. And the EXP system makes for too many spawn killers.

QFT. Keep the $10 and use it towards a linksys or similar.

It's integrated graphics. You can't expect to get a good score at ALL. I ran it with my x1300 graphics card (non-integrated) and only got 600 something, so that seems accurate. With such a nice system, why are you bottlenecking yourself? Get a decent card and score 10k+ That being said, you should look into upgrading your power supply to a decent 550w if you get a video card.

I didn't lap the HSF in-depth seeing as it was flat already. I did a quick 10 minute job on it using 600, 800, and 1000 grit to smooth it down. It's not a mirror finish, but it is reflective.

At 1152x864 max everything I get 80-90 FPS online (even 64 player free for all) in COD4. Stock I get about 70-80 FPS.

After finishing a 12 hour Prime95 Small FFT torture test, I can officially say she's finished. I couldn't have gotten to this point without you guys, for that I'm extremely grateful. I got so much advice from this site - from motivation to switch to Intel, the P35 chipset, advice on a PSU, TONS of overclocking info, help with voltage, lapping, testing, etc etc the list goes on and on. Specs: E6750 @ 425x8 (3.4GHz): Lapped, AS5'd, on an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L mobo: Thermaltake copper HSF for northbridge 2GB A-Data DDR2-800 mushkin enhanced 580W modular PSU: AWESOME quality, I'm in love with this psu. Diamond HD3870 512MB DDR4: mildly OC'ed on stock cooling Hitachi 160GB (will expand in the future when needed) LITE-ON 20x DVD-R w/ Lightscribe, FDD, and memory card reader NZXT case Windows XP Pro x64 After lapping the cpu and reorienting the Freezer, at 3.4GHz and 1.41875v both cores are at 36

Sounds like the problem I had with my recent build. Turned out I didn't plug in the seperate 4-pin power connector on the mobo. Check to make sure you have it plugged in - it's over by the CPU usually. Mine was hidden by my heatsink so I didn't catch it when installing. EDIT: looksl ike your board instead uses a standard 4-pin accessory connector, by the main 24-pin. Nevermind.

Figured that out the moment you posted this. Thanks