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DragoslaV

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  1. If it clogs; I'll upgrade my tubes to a bigger size and in the right color, than I have a good reason to waste the money already spent. Also clogged or not, I should remove and clean all blocks properly by hand to make sure the new distilled water don't have any dye residues. So once again, I'm going to enjoy the moments I have now spent and spend some more once I got the clogging. I just got to keep my eye on the temps and flow rate to make sure it won't do any damage.... Also, yes, I would've used distilled only if I had this knowledge and wasn't so freaking stubborn.
  2. I'll give it a try, if it clog's I'll have a weekend of scrubbing with a toothbrush and than I'll def switch to distilled only. Also if that's the case, I will upgrade my tubes to a bigger size in the right color.
  3. Just got back from cleaning and flushing. First round I did the 3:1 mix for a 30 min, second round 6:1 mix for 10 min, 3rd, 4th & 5th rounds where distilled water only. On the 5th round the water was clear without particle's. Now I'm running the Pastel and it looks great. Just got to keep my eye on the temp monitor. Thanks for the advice!
  4. Thank you very much for all the info. I am going for the vinegar and distilled water solution (I'm rather safe than sorry). I have been running the Aurora for 2 weeks and after I noticed the particles disappeared I immediately started cleaning it and replaced it with distilled water. I also run my setup with a kill coil. (Also I have put in a sponge to try - but I was sure it wouldn't help - to catch the particles) The reason why I want to use - stubbornly - a dye, is because as you can see in the video, the reservoir is a showcase on my desk and with 'regular' water I think the whole effect and scheme is gone. So I wouldn't mind cleaning the gunk from components once I got this problem. (And If its weekly I need to rethink it, if its yearly I can life with it) Also I won't go for any UV dye since I read that is the most common reason for stains. I have researched the Mayhems Pastel and I couldn't find any problems other people had with it. (i.e. gunking and staining), althrough I did read it loses color quicker than the other Mayhems.
  5. Hello all, I'm new here and I have build my first watercooled system together with an IKEA hack based on the famous (yet another) l3p d3sk: (I'm totally sorry for that crappy video, once I'm really done, I will let my buddy make some awesome photos! Also youtube should provide 720p soon) I also will make another thread with more details on the build itself. My problem: I have - I think - an ok method for flushing water for my build, because my build is bolt onto the frame of my desk I cannot really flush all the water well from all the components by flipping the case. Now I have used the method of buying double what I need so that when I flushed the water I can put the new water in, let it run, flush, and repeat till the old water is gone. Now as you can see in the video I made a booboo by using the Mayhems Aurora, and as warned I got the problem of the particles disappearing. Also as you can see in the video it's because the particles came stuck in the threads and my reservoir had 2 extra LED holes where it fell down in and didn't get picked up. I removed all fittings and cleaned what I could clean. But now I want clean the system properly even where I can't reach (radiator, blocks for i.e. warranty). I have seen a video where someone was cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol and got good results with the particles. However is it really a good idea to run 5% on my first cleaning round with this, and then fill and flush another 3 or 4 times without it before putting in the final Mayhems pastel red? I don't want to create more troubles by destroying the rubbers or tubes, but perhaps running it 30mins won't do that damage? Thanks in advance.
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