AnUnknownSource

Maybe, but I can be a pack rat forever I was feeling rather destructive today... New Request: Empty bottle of Crown Royal Extra Rare

Others have had that problem. If you can't take that router back and get it replaced, try either the reset method below, or flashing with the latest firmware from linksys or dd-wrt: Long Reset Method: Hold reset button for ~ 1 minute While still holding reset, unplug the router, and continue holding reset for ~30 secs Let go of reset and power up the router Firmware: 1) Unplug router and all cords 2) Connect to router via Ethernet Port 1 3) In a command prompt, type the TFTP command that corresponds to your firmware upgrade, but DON'T hit enter yet. 4) Connect Power to the router 5) When the LED for LAN Port 1 lights up, mash enter in the command prompt. DON'T Power off the router until the flashing is done or you'll brick your router. I'd suggest the DD-WRT firmware.

That link doesn't show a specific kit, but Swiftech get a thumbs up if you're going to buy a kit. :thumbs-up: Sucking air through the radiator will get you more efficient cooling than blowing air through it... and you want the hot air leaving the case, rather than entering. I've used both in the past.... clamps have leaked on me, and Zip-ties have not. Nope... looks like a waste of time and money to me... but if it makes you more comfortable, go for it. Personally, I wouldn't want a package arriving at my door with the contents listed as "Luberex" but that's just me...

Your components were fine because you bought non-conductive liquid to use in your loop... the same disaster with distilled water and you'd be browsing newegg with a cup of coffee in a cafe somewhere right now I had a similar thing happen not long ago... but I too was lucky to be using non-conductive liquid... whoever though of the stuff deserves a medal... or at least some cookies.

USAF here... I'm a Contract Administrator (6C0) stationed in Okinawa, Japan.

takes me 7+ days every time... but 7 is great considering how far it has to come

If you can find a setup for cheaper, with all new GOOD components like this one, all the clamps, tubing and all the blocks, everything, I want a link... but I don't see you finding it anywhere. The 655 alone is $75 new, plus the Apogee GT: $50, MCW30: $30, MCW 60 GPU block: $64, Radiator: $50... That's $269 without the Res, Clamps, Tubing, Additive, Radbox, Fans... Try piecing it together from different sites and you add shipping at each of them and you're over $300 without thinking about it. If you don't need the chipset block (and you really don't for normal use), sell it, and you get your kit even cheaper. So... cjloki, I bet you'd find a lot of people that would recommend this kit, especially with it being all quality components... don't get thrown off by people harping on a kit just because it's a kit...

http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-apex-ultra-plus.html Swiftech H20-220 Apex Ultra+ Water Cooling Kit Regular: $369.99 Sale Price: $239.99 - You Save: 35% ($130.00)! Normally kits suck, but you can't beat the components in this kit at this price... I wish this was around when I bought all my gear...

You probably will need AnyDVD or an alternative. If you need to, you can Grab DVD43, which is a free utility like AnyDVD. MaximumPC's guide is a good starter: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/...4enabled_player

Check out Handbrake for ripping/encoding/transcoding. There are a lot of tutorials if you google it. I second the TVersity option and 264 encoding... can't beat it!

Nice Link! Looks similar to Petra's Testing... but with a wider range of hardware. Made for a good read, but he didn't go into noise from the pumps... I like the 24V testing of the D5 though! J2K - That tubing will do just fine... PVC tubing is pretty common... Tygon too, but it's more expensive. FluidXP is a coolant liquid... non-toxic, non-conductive and UV reactive... but you can buy clear since you're getting UV tubing... or you can see if putting UV coolant in adds to the effect... up to you, I think they cost the same...

Just found this at SVC... They also have the one I use (only controls 4 though). This one's on sale for $17.99 right now too! http://www.svc.com/rhk-ex-bk.html I'm about to order one for myself! I'll be selling my old one when I get it if you want to wait

They're not saying all computers would be that way... they're patenting an idea similar to 'pay as you go insurance'. You'd still have the choice to buy your own rig, or to sign up for the service and pay as you go. It wouldn't be double billing at all... I think the point was that you basically rent a computer, and only pay for the computing power you use... It'd be great for Mr. and Mrs Computer Illiterate next door that knock on your door every weekend needing their PC fixed... with a rental unit like that, they'd have to take it back to the man (M$). It is another one of these "broad terms" patents that everyone's getting sued over lately where some obscure company threw a bunch of terms in a patent application 15 years ago, got it, then waited for someone to bite... it's patent fishing... new sport! They can start this kind of service all they want... I'll still buy my own rig though, thanks. p.s. Could you imagine you bill if you folded on one of those things.... new prank... install F@H on your friends rental PC and watch them cry when their monthly bill comes in...

The Sunbeam Rheobus is one of the best out there, and it has Blue/Red Leds (change at 7V). You need to read into what you're getting. Some Fan controllers range from 7V-12V and some Start at 0V-12V. The sunbeam Rheobus starts at 0V, but most fans won't even kick in until you reach 7V... the 0-12 thing comes in usefull for controlling other things, like LED lights... and the Sunbeam will handle like 30W versus the Vantec Nexus' 7W. (though I've had like 20W on the vantec and it didn't flinch a bit...) You could also look at http://www.lamptron.com/plist.php - some of their stuff is pretty nice, high wattage, but I'll bet it's expensive. I think you'll find that the Tempest isn't actually very loud, even with all the fans running... I didn't think so anyway... heard MUCH louder before... like my acrylic case with 11x 80mm fans sounded like an afterburner under my desk... edit: Hey kingfisher! Long time no see!

Just to clear something up... both those pumps are mfg by Laing... Swiftech rebadges them as the MCP655, but it's the same part. (Laing D5). Danger Den and D-Tek also rebadge them as their own. You'll find that the D5 has a little more power, with less noise than the DDC (Which swiftech also rebadges as the MCP350), even with the aftermarket tops. Petra's Tech Shop did a bunch of testing and that came out as a result. Having used both myself, including the 2nd gen top from Petra, The D5 does a lot better, but you want to get the D5-38/810N model number (Swiftech MCP655 is usually this model or better), because you can dial down the speed to make it quieter, and you won't notice much difference in temp between the 3-5 setting, but you'll notice it gets a LOT quieter. Plus, you can get something like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...oducts_id=24668 B:) Do a search for D5 over there at PPCs and you'll find some different brackets for mounting too. FluidXP (I think performancepcs.com has it in stock) is UV reactive, comes in a few different colors, and it's non-conductive and all that, that's what I use, it's great... have had an accident or two and not lost any hardware... As far as sticking a Radiator and Fans int he front of a stacker... there's nothing a dremel can't fix I hear if you take the HDD cage out a 240 rad will fit vertically if you only have 1 Optical drive... but I don't have an 830, so I can't tell you for sure. What about adding it to the side panel? http://virtualrain.blogspot.com/2006/10/ra...tealth-240.html