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Car Audio / New Deck.


greengiant912

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Alright, I think I got it..

 

 

I picked up a 12v relay from auto zone...

 

 

I drew this up I think this is what you were trying to explain...

relay.jpg

 

 

Edit I also noticed that my soldering iron is only 15watts lol.. I think I need something a little better :P

 

Also would it be ok just to solder the wires to the relay? I don't clips lol...

notmally you'll have another terminal on the relay below were you have 87 on your diagram. and that will be 87 and the one you have labeled would be 87a, but it should work either way, you just want to make sure you use the N.O. for the ground so that when it switchs it will put ground to the parking brake, but with the car off it has open circut.

Edited by Mikesnow

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notmally you'll have another terminal on the relay below were you have 87 on your diagram. and that will be 87 and the one you have labeled would be 87a, but it should work either way, you just want to make sure you use the N.O. for the ground so that when it switchs it will put ground to the parking brake, but with the car off it has open circut.

 

 

The relay I bought had a slot for 87a but no connector. 87a is in the middle... and not shown on that... What do you mean by N.O.?

 

relay_img.JPG

Edited by greengiant912

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Alright so I went ahead and prepared the bypass for the install tonight...

 

 

Here is a few pictures of me trying not to burn myself with the soldering iron hahah...

 

 

IMG_2237.JPG

IMG_2240.JPG

IMG_2243.JPG

IMG_2246.JPG

IMG_2247.JPG

 

 

By the way I wanted to use the correct colors, but I am a little cheap especially after buying this $500 unit :S

 

 

Also question, the ground on this bypass gets put inline with the one on the deck? Or can it be a separate ground?

Edited by greengiant912

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You could dround with the deck or run ground straight to the chassis easier to grab your strippers strip back a bit of insulation on the ground wire and tap straight in, solder n tape off.

 

Colors mean jack inside cars haha there is no standard to anything bar the loom coming out of aftermarket decks. Every car company follows there only rules and even they change things up every now and then.

 

Most of the time well at least me and the installers I have worked with stick to one standard when adding extra wire which is red and black positive and negetive. Cept with trailers then we grab proper wire colours.

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The relay I bought had a slot for 87a but no connector. 87a is in the middle... and not shown on that... What do you mean by N.O.?

 

relay_img.JPG

ya thats fine 87a is N.C. so that one should work. N.O. means normally open, N.C. Means Normally Closed. if you test continuity from 30 with the relay not powered on it should read nothing at 87 but if there was an 87a it should read contact to 87a. If you supply 12v to 85 and ground to 86 it will activate the relay and then continuity would switch from 87a to 87. so 86and 87 ground, 85 to the amp remote power on wire from the deck and 30 to the parking brake input of the deck and your good. You can always put a fuse between the remote from the radio and the relay just in case so the fuse blows instead of your radio. 1A or 2A fuse would work fine.

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ya thats fine 87a is N.C. so that one should work. N.O. means normally open, N.C. Means Normally Closed. if you test continuity from 30 with the relay not powered on it should read nothing at 87 but if there was an 87a it should read contact to 87a. If you supply 12v to 85 and ground to 86 it will activate the relay and then continuity would switch from 87a to 87. so 86and 87 ground, 85 to the amp remote power on wire from the deck and 30 to the parking brake input of the deck and your good. You can always put a fuse between the remote from the radio and the relay just in case so the fuse blows instead of your radio. 1A or 2A fuse would work fine.

 

 

You think there is a good chance it could blow with out it? (a fuse)

Edited by greengiant912

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Got the head unit in around noon. I pulled my factory radio out and started to take a peak at everything.

 

 

There is one part that has me a little dumbfounded, its a SPDT Relay that crutchfield sent with the deck. I have no clue what it is for or how to wire it up... They didn't provide instructions, I might give them a call and see what is up with this...

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You think there is a good chance it could blow with out it? (a fuse)

oh just if you wire it wrong it could cause a short when the switch activates and if there is no fuse then sokethings gotta blow, the radio would be the first to go. if everything is wired right then no worries.

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Got the head unit in around noon. I pulled my factory radio out and started to take a peak at everything.

 

 

There is one part that has me a little dumbfounded, its a SPDT Relay that crutchfield sent with the deck. I have no clue what it is for or how to wire it up... They didn't provide instructions, I might give them a call and see what is up with this...

thats for the gm harness. Most head units draw more current on the 12v accessory then the gm harnesses output so you put a relay in with constant 12V with a higher amp rating so you don't melt the gm harness you paid 150 bucks for.

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Got the unit installed today... It was freaking to nice outside not too... 85 and sunny up until the very end of the install where it started to rain...

 

 

It went pretty easy, the questions I did have I called crutchfield up and they answered them. The GMOS harness now comes wired with a relay, crutchfield still sends them out for some reason, but the guy said don't worry about it.

 

 

The trim piece was a pain to get off, I figured out a trick to it eventually and then it came off easily... I was being extra careful not to break anything...

 

 

The bypass for the ebreak works great. I had one message pop up but I think that was due to something else possibly... Haven't had an issue since.

 

I ran the mic in the headliner to the center where my passenger airbag light is and attached it to the side of that and it looks pretty good... Ideally I would not like to see the microphone at all, there is a mic in my mirror for the onstar service, but I don't think I can tap into that...

 

For some reason too, I tought my driver side front speaker wasn't working, upon closer inspection though, it was working...

 

When the screen flips open it comes down pretty low near the shift, and I cant have my hand on it...

 

 

I also have an ipod dock that I want to mount somewhere so I can just drop my phone into it, for all the features :)

 

 

Anyways I bet you guys want to see some pictures!

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IMG_2251.JPGIMG_2253.JPG

IMG_2255.JPGIMG_2256.JPG

IMG_2258.JPGIMG_2260.JPG

Edited by greengiant912

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Very nice and you will probably keep getting a legal warning about not using the unit when driving, nothing to worry about.

 

Did you get the xm radio module?

 

 

No I didn't get the xm radio module yet, I love XM, but I think for now I got enough content to suit me... I have some rewards coming from crutchfield, so I might add it later... It was an extra $70, if I really want to I can use the external unit I have used in the past that broadcasts to your fm radio...

 

And yes every time I start a movie after starting the car there is a warning about it, but I just hit ok. I am fine with that, its how it should be... Your unit shouldn't lock down just because you don't have the e break on...

 

Like I said I don't plan on watching movies while driving, I just want to be able to have the car in park and do it, without the e break...

Edited by greengiant912

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