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AntitrustSpider

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About AntitrustSpider

  • Birthday 10/23/1986

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    ZeRoCoOl850
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OCC

  • Computer Specs
    Intel Pentium 4 Processor 630
    3.0 Ghz @ 3.75 Ghz
    800 Mhz FSB @ 1000 Mhz
    2 MB L2 Cache
    1 Gb PQI PC5400 @ 334 Mhz
    FSB:DRAM 3:4 4-4-4-12
    ATI X700 430/517
    FoxConn 925XE Motherboard
    Western Digital 250 GB SATA HDD

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  • Location
    Las Vegas

AntitrustSpider's Achievements

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  1. I got my 66 when I was 18. It was $7,400. It may not have been perfect or all original. It had a little rust in a couple places that could be repaired. Exterior was in good condition, paint was in good condition. Had all the panels and hadn't been in any wreck. It had the original engine that had been rebuild and modified. Original transmission and differential. Paint color and interior weren't the original colors but were the same style. Insurance wasn't very expensive either. You can get special insurance for classics for cheap. Mine is about as much as a newer car because I have it fully insured.
  2. Well when I was shopping around for my subs I had originally looked for an amp that was around 600 watts RMS at 4 ohms, but later found out they could be wired for 2 ohms so that'd make the 600 watt RMS amp be 1200 watts RMS at 2 ohms. The amp I bought was a JBL GTO1201.1 for $375, which is about 1117 watts RMS at 2 ohms. It was just about the best deal I found for power to price ratio. Right now I'm running the one 1242D off one of the channels from the amp and I'm definately buying a capacitor this week because it's a ton of power. Also, I've heard those punch subwoofers as well and they're not as good as the Alpines.
  3. They were talking about max power. A pioneer 800 watt Max amp. If you read all of my post you would have noticed I told him to get an amp that matched the RMS power for the subwoofers he's getting. Alpine 1241D's are 300 RMS and 1000 max. The 1242D's that he's getting at 500 RMS and 1500 max. The new Alpine's he's getting are pleanty loud enough. They'll make his ears bleed just fine especially at the price. Also they'll have the sound quality as well. Two of them will make his car rattle all over. They'll get pretty close to the same power as your Type-X and get better frequency response. If your friend can get you 60% off, then go for it. But I'd make sure to check pricegrabber.com to compare the prices because you may be able to get a better deal. As for the boxes, those subs are supposed to have a sealed box between 0.7 and 1.0 cubic feet I think. 0.80 or 0.85 cubic feet per sub being the best. Just find something with that size and you'll be good. I don't suggest ported for those subs because it wouldn't sound as good.
  4. I just ordered one of the 1242's today :-D I had 2 1241's before then but they got holes in them because of a bolt in my trunk. The ones you got are dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofers. But they can be wired to run at 2 ohms pretty easily. As for the amp you'll need something that is 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms and is mono. As for installing it yourself, it's easy! It just depends on whether the time to hook it up is worth the 50 bucks it would cost to get it installed. All you'd need is a $30 amp wiring kit from wal-mart. You just need to run power from the battery or your fuse panel to the trunk and run RCA cables from the CD player to the trunk along with the remote wire. It would probably be easier to have it professionally installed because running the wires is a bit of a pain. Just go buy the kit from wal-mart and take it and have them install it. As for the third question, I believe the kit from wal-mart has a 0 gauge main wire that splits off into 2 gauge or something. That amp you picked out from Best Buy is 800 watts max. Your subwoofers total 3000 watts max so it wouldn't even power one of them. You need something 1000 RMS or 3000 max. I'd also suggest not buying it from a retail store. Go to pricegrabber.com and look for the amp. I got a JBL GTO 1201.1 which is about 1100 watts RMS for about $375. Alpine Amps aren't really that great for loud bass. They are good for sound quality though. I'd really suggest JBL or Rockford Fosgate for the amp though. Also with all that power you should probably get a 1 or 2 farad capacitor to make sure the power is there continuously. If you don't get them your headlights may dim and your battery will die a lot faster. No, he doesn't need a 1500 watt amp but he does need a 3000 watt one. He's running 1500 watts times 2. Also you don't run your speakers from a mono amp that you have your subwoofers running off. That'd be completely stupid. For the other speakers, if you have stock speakers it'd be a good idea to run them from just the deck. If you have good aftermarket speakers you should get a 4 channel amp that matches the RMS power of the speakers, which is usually around 40 or 50 watts.
  5. I like the AWP, M4, and the pump shotty. All depends on what map it is though. b41b6b14b7b81b84 Buys clarion or galil Buys ammo Buys deagle Buys seconday ammo Buys kevlar Buys HE nade Works in CS, CSS, or CS CZ.
  6. I'd suggest just getting stuff over-nighted from newegg.
  7. The only thing I can think of is he's one of those people that spent $2,000 on ebay to get it as soon as possible and broke the danged thing and since he can't return it, he's pissed and wants to make money out of it.
  8. http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20051205/tc_nm/media_xbox_dc This man is a complete idiot. If there's something wrong with it, take it back. You don't see anyone suing Microsoft that Windows crashes or has glitches in it do you?
  9. Well it does come with several other water blocks.
  10. Anyone seen this kit? http://www.vantecusa.com/product-cooling.html# (STG-100) Looks pretty cool to me. Comes with waterblocks for the CPU, north bridge, south bridge, and the video card. Also comes with a pump, resevoir, and radiator. Anyone know if it's any good?
  11. It was on sale from $65. I was overclocking my computer from 3.0Ghz to 4.0Ghz on the 230 watt PSU that came with my $30 FoxConn case.
  12. Well I HAD a 230 max watt power supply in my computer LOL. I thought it was a 400 or something before but I checked it before I took it out. X-Connect HAS to be better than that POS. Besides it was only $15. With the X-Connect there's actually more cable clutter because the cables are thick and my case is small. The old power supply only had a fan in the back and this one has a fan in the back and the bottom which is probably the reason why it's running cooler.
  13. I finally got a modular power supply. My old idle processor temps used to be around 40C. Now it idles around 37C. Usually when I used to start using my computer, like using media player and downloading stuff and browsing the internet it would go up to around 45C. Now it stays around 38C. Never really though that the power supply could affect my CPU temps by several degrees
  14. I have around 10 hard drives. I don't remember exactly how big they all are though. 36.7GB 40GB 60GB 120GB 120GB 160GB 180GB 200GB 250GB Only the 250 and the 36.7 are in my desktop at home right now. The rest are full and can't fit in my case right now.
  15. I think it's just probably un-practicle. I think the companies that produce all the parts would rather have other companies manufacture power supplies rather then them having one other thing they need to add to their products. Also it's one more thing that could go wrong with them which costs them money from RMA's. Plus, you need some sort of central power source. If all the parts regulate their own power, you'd need to have every single device plugged in.
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