Good upgrade from a GTX 470 SLI

[feetfats]

As far as the 290X goes, it was along the lines of the top that I would spend on. I am not really partial to amd or nvidia, both have been excellent in my systems.

I was considering the R9 290 but I just bought a 7970 and it's awesome and much cheaper. I'm playing bf4 maxed out at 1080p and usually hover around 55-60 fps (vsync on) When overclocked it doesn't seem to dip under 60 fps at all.

[Voltes_5]

 

THanks IVI, in fact that was one of my choices when I mentioned it on the OP. Much appreciated. Would that work also for a future SLI move?

 

feetfats, no credit card debt here, its just to keep our credit score at the 720 and above ball park. My wife and I have three credit cards, BB/Macy's/Credit Union. All three combined have under $1500 debt. And we have no other debts, well apart from our 2011/2012 IRS audit which they tell us that we owe them $149/$200 respectively, LOL. The BB cc have an option to pay for the item in a certain ammount with no interest for a period of 6/12/18 months. Like I said, to keep the credit score stable, just dont mess it up, LOL. Two weeks worth of work pay will pay for all that debt.

So your paying interest each month on the credit cards?

 

Not the Best Buy Credit card, like I said, if purchasing more than $400 on a purchase I get to pay for it in 12 months same as cash, last purchase I made on it is my wifes iPad Retina 128 gb with all the cases and what not that came out to almost $1100, had 18 months to pay for it same as cash, paid it off in 7 months, no interests at all. Now my Credit Union credit card is for phone bills/car insurance/cable, I paid $5.77 interest last month. For Macy's with a low debt ammount, I paid $14.76 interest on it, which comes out to $.50 a day for 30 days? I never do pay for a minimum ammount on each billing cycle, lets say for the last purchase on the iPad, I paid $150 a pay cycle on it, sometimes $200 and a couple of times $300. I do the same on Macy's, on the Credit Union card, I normally do 80 percent of the total of that cycle month just to have a small ammount on the card. All those phone bill/car insurance/cable/electric have to be paid in full anyway if paid in cash right? For $5.77 interest for a month using a Credit card to pay those and only putting 80 percent on it, why not right. Gas and food purchases, we like to use cash.

[feetfats]

"no credit card debt here"

"All three combined have under $1500 debt"

"I normally do 80 percent of the total of that cycle month just to have a small ammount on the card"

 

 

I hope this works out for you   

Has someone told you that you should keep a balance on your card so you can build credit?  

That's like shooting yourself in the foot so you can get a free band-aid.

Edited December 3, 2013 by feetfats

[Voltes_5]

"no credit card debt here"

"All three combined have under $1500 debt"

"I normally do 80 percent of the total of that cycle month just to have a small ammount on the card"

 

 

I hope this works out for you   

Has someone told you that you should keep a balance on your card so you can build credit?  

That's like shooting yourself in the foot so you can get a free band-aid.

Yes, its been working for us. Its not a hope thing, its reality.

No, nobody told me how to do my financing, I studied and learned, so I can keep most of my hard earned money for myself, even after the IRS.

All in all, I pay for a less than $30 a month for a band aid...................take a good look at yourself in the mirrror and tell me how much is your band aid is costing you for a month.

[KillaCam]

Getting back on topic.....  A GTX 770 would be a good upgrade for you.  It would have more VRAM, use much less power, generate significantly less heat, and make less noise.  All along with being below your $400 budget.   

[wevsspot]

Voltes,

 

Just to clarify a couple things on "building" your credit score.  Keeping a balance on the card doesn't do a thing for improving your credit score, and in fact most financial / credit experts will tell you that it's best to pay the credit card balance in full each month.

 

If you are considering your FICO score as the primary metric for your credit worthiness and credit history here are the primary factors that constitute the formula for calculating your score;

 

Payment History = 35% of your score

Amounts Owed = 30% of your score

Length of Credit History = 15% of your score

New Credit = 10% of your score

Types of Credit Used = 10%

 

So you can see that paying your bills on time (credit card, utility, mortgage, car payment etc. are critical)

After that, the percentage of credit used compared to the percentage of credit available.  Example: using a credit card with a $27,000 limit once in a while and then paying the balance in full does great things for your credit score.

The longer your credit history is with a specific lender or credit card company the better

Lenders willing to grant you new credit based on historical credit performance and/or your FICO score can improve your overall credit score

Lenders (and FICO) like to see various types of credit being used and how you manage that credit load.  Example: mortgage credit, revolving credit, installment credit etc.

 

In closing, there's nothing wrong with using "free" money (i.e. interest free credit purchases) and in fact it's a smart way to buy stuff (assuming you pay it off when or before it's due).  Say you have $1,000 in your savings account earning even a measly 0.06% return, it is still earning something.  You could take that $1,000 dollars and make a purchase, but now you're not earning anything and you've probably purchased something that won't return anything on that investment either.  And, if it's computer parts then it's almost guaranteed that they will depreciate a bunch within one years time.  So why not use the lenders "free" money and keep the $1,000 in your savings account?

 

Check your PMs. 

 

Wev

[FUZi0N]

Well, back on topic again. I'm pretty sure the guy came on here to learn about video cards and not how to build his credit score, which he can learn elsewhere. I'm going to say go with the GTX770 that Braegnok shared. I have it's lesser form (GTX670) and it still handles everything I can throw at it on high-ultra settings @ 1920x1200 res.

[feetfats]

...................take a good look at yourself in the mirrror and tell me how much is your band aid is costing you for a month.

 

 

I accidentally short paid a cc bill one time and so I have unfortunately paid $0.75 credit card interest in my entire life. I usually earn about 2-$300 annually in cash back from my credit card and pay zero fees or interest. 

 

And I'm sorry for derailing this topic.  My bad.

[wevsspot]

Here's a 2GB GTX770 for $312.98

 

At 1920x1200 or less it would be hard to beat that PNY GTX 770 card for $312 and some change.  

[Voltes_5]

Then its sold, will get that card. In the near future, will it be good to get another for SLI, maybe in a year or so? Thanks for the help guys. I only wanted to get Skyrim, but my wife insisted I get the three for its cheap price, LOL.

[FUZi0N]

Then its sold, will get that card. In the near future, will it be good to get another for SLI, maybe in a year or so? Thanks for the help guys. I only wanted to get Skyrim, but my wife insisted I get the three for its cheap price, LOL.

 

It would be an excellent card for SLI in the future if you want to go that route. It all really depends on what's available on the market at the time you plan to buy another. If there's a single card solution that actually beats 770s in SLI at the time for a reasonable price, I'd consider selling the single 770 and upgrading to that card.. hypothetically.

Edited December 5, 2013 by FUZi0N