hardnrg Posted November 13, 2008 Posted November 13, 2008 That's a nice rivet tool Nate, but the craftsman I bought will accept larger rivets by using alternate nose pieces. The one in the link is pretty much identical to the one I have, the nose pieces are in the front of the handle, so I've been able to do the different size rivets in my case with it... I'd agree that it sounds like you haven't removed the rivets. If you're breaking the drill bits, I'm afraid you're doing it wrong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted November 13, 2008 Posted November 13, 2008 Ok I was able to remove the rivets and take out the drive bay cages after some hard careful work. Both Drive Cages removed: The case completely naked : As you can see all over my moms kitchen chairs that taking out rivets leaves a big mess: Time to get out the vacuum!: Be sure to vacuum the case out cause the mess and blasting out the case with a can of air is recommended since tiny pieces of the rivets went everywhere: So far so good. I still can't paint today cause it's raining the whole day. I pulled my car out of the garage but my mom's stuff is still freaking everywhere!! Oh and thanks alot Hardnrg, I appreciate the advice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardnrg Posted November 13, 2008 Posted November 13, 2008 my advice now is to carry on deriveting the case until there are no rivets left, and you are left with individual metal parts, but not on the kitchen chairs! at least do it on the floor with some newspaper or an old bedsheet if you are gonna carry on in the kitchen... kitchen workshop... lol... next you'll turn your bathroom into a paint booth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 my advice now is to carry on deriveting the case until there are no rivets left, and you are left with individual metal parts, but not on the kitchen chairs! at least do it on the floor with some newspaper or an old bedsheet if you are gonna carry on in the kitchen... kitchen workshop... lol... next you'll turn your bathroom into a paint booth lol I prefer not to de-rivet anything else cause it just becomes more and more work. I could understand doing it to the drive cages cause they were actually in the way but nothing else. But I actually might de-rivet the mobo tray cause it looks like I will be running into problems down the way cause the mobo tray left a little gap in the back where the cause meets the mobo tray and it might make it hard for me to paint in there. BTW do you guys think I should wetsand before applying the clearcoat? And after the clear coat is applied do you think I should buff it with some polish to fix any paint imperfections (if there is any) and light scratches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardnrg Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 you're going to find it's harder to spray paint a surface at an angle, especially near the mating edges, without causing runs and drips or overspray, than to derivet and rerivet... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewr05 Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 (edited) kitchen workshop... lol... next you'll turn your bathroom into a paint booth LMAO what kind of schmuck would do that? You would have to be some sort of idiot to do that.... -_- Edited November 14, 2008 by Andrewr05 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 you're going to find it's harder to spray paint a surface at an angle, especially near the mating edges, without causing runs and drips or overspray, than to derivet and rerivet... ok fine I'll take the whole thing apart Should I really sand the surface before priming? The surface is already smooth enough to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardnrg Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 sanding before priming is to prep the surface, not just to smoothen it... paint sticks to roughened surfaces better... you could use etching primer on unsanded panels though - I only sanded the exterior faces of my panels because they had that horrible paint spattering texture that most PC cases have Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 sanding before priming is to prep the surface, not just to smoothen it... paint sticks to roughened surfaces better... you could use etching primer on unsanded panels though - I only sanded the exterior faces of my panels because they had that horrible paint spattering texture that most PC cases have ok I'll sand it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocmooz Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 (edited) LMAO what kind of schmuck would do that? You would have to be some sort of idiot to do that.... -_- ME! Umm Queen... I think you bought too much paint. Those cans really go a long ways, but whatever its never a bad thing to have extra paint laying around. I couldn't help but notice that the case already has paint inside, not the kind you are going to use, but instead powder-coat. This would have been to prevent rust and should be expected from any case worth its rivets. I also think that this powder coat paint would make excellent primer and would require sanding only if you're really into the fine detail bs like my pops is. Any way... good luck. :thumbs-up: Edited November 14, 2008 by ocmooz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy_Nate Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 I take it you've never powder coated something before? It's not something you do at home... PS. This powder coat "paint" you speak of...is POWDER. It only sticks to the surface because you electrically charge it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Queenz Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 I don't know I just want to make sure everything goes well. I'm wondering did I buy the right primer? I bought all auto products cause from what I've tested auto paint is alot more durable than any arts and crafts paint from companies like Krylon. And I never powder coated before. So are you guys saying I should sand everything down before starting? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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