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Car Audio / New Deck.


greengiant912

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Solder and electrical tabe far easier than trying to shrink in the tight spaces you work.

Never ever use scotch locks ect or even just twist and tape.

or wire nuts they call fall off as well.

 

as for the scotch locks or t-taps, thats still debateable imho. I haven't used any in an install for over 10 years now, But I have been installing for over 21 years now, and I have never in all those years had a t-taps or scotch lock fail. It's all in knowing the correct way to use then tho.

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or wire nuts they call fall off as well.

 

as for the scotch locks or t-taps, thats still debateable imho. I haven't used any in an install for over 10 years now, But I have been installing for over 21 years now, and I have never in all those years had a t-taps or scotch lock fail. It's all in knowing the correct way to use then tho.

They won't fall off but what would you rather scotch lock/t-tap or stripped soldered and taped?

 

Plus the room they take up.

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I ordered some shrink wrap from crutchfield, it was relatively inexpensive $9, likely could of gotten it cheaper but eh...

 

I ordered the AVH-P4400 tonight I think I will be pretty happy with the unit.

 

 

I prefer to solder and shrink wrap its a lot neater, with tape it dries out over a while...

 

 

What type of solder do you guys usually use? I think I use the wrong type, it is a higher heat type that i use for circuit boards... I think I need something that melts at a lower temp, In the past when I didn't do it right, but that was in high school when I didn't know better hahah...

 

 

Also I am not spicing any wires that I know of... The harness just wires up to the one with the one provided with the stereo...

 

The one thing I am sorta kinda interested in doing is with the e-brake bypass... I am not looking to drive with video playing and what not, I just don't feel like manufactures should limit me :P

 

I think I can just wire that lead to a ground point correct to achieve this correct?

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With most units you can ground the wire not sure what the go is with new pioneer units but I know with clarion you need to have a switch added. Mike should be able to tell you ground or switch.

 

Use whatever solder you want just make sure it flows properly. Softer lead solders will flow easier than silver ect but as long as you have a soldering iron that can make it flow then dont worry too much.

 

When you are done shrinking run the tape round and clean up the loom will make it easier to tuck out of the way.

 

I did the unit in dads pos car with silver solder the stuff I mainly use on circuit boards and it honestly has no issues just needs higher temps ti flow but my weller butane soldering iron was still hot enough. Your issue in the past was likely dry solder joints.

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I ordered some shrink wrap from crutchfield, it was relatively inexpensive $9, likely could of gotten it cheaper but eh...

 

I ordered the AVH-P4400 tonight I think I will be pretty happy with the unit.

 

 

I prefer to solder and shrink wrap its a lot neater, with tape it dries out over a while...

 

 

What type of solder do you guys usually use? I think I use the wrong type, it is a higher heat type that i use for circuit boards... I think I need something that melts at a lower temp, In the past when I didn't do it right, but that was in high school when I didn't know better hahah...

 

 

Also I am not spicing any wires that I know of... The harness just wires up to the one with the one provided with the stereo...

 

The one thing I am sorta kinda interested in doing is with the e-brake bypass... I am not looking to drive with video playing and what not, I just don't feel like manufactures should limit me :P

 

I think I can just wire that lead to a ground point correct to achieve this correct?

in the install manual it tell you to attach it to ground on the e brake, which works with the e brake set however if you just ground it typically on a pioneer it will see this ground during boot up and it will not by pass the ebrake. You will need to use a 12v relay to create a automated switch. You will put ground on the relay to 86 and 87a put 30 to the parking brake input on the screen and then put the remote turn on from the screen to 85. this will allow it to only see ground once the screen turns on allowing the delay needed for the bypass to work. You can youtube videos on it if you need.

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Alright, I think I got it..

 

 

I picked up a 12v relay from auto zone...

 

 

I drew this up I think this is what you were trying to explain...

relay.jpg

 

 

Edit I also noticed that my soldering iron is only 15watts lol.. I think I need something a little better :P

 

Also would it be ok just to solder the wires to the relay? I don't clips lol...

Edited by greengiant912

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I always solder to relays :D

And speakers and pretty much anything I rarely trust anything that clips on.

 

If you want to solder anything other than a pcb the you will want a new soldering iron :lol:

 

Weller is a good brand but pricey if you don't use it often but they would have my recommendation.

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I always solder to relays :D

And speakers and pretty much anything I rarely trust anything that clips on.

 

If you want to solder anything other than a pcb the you will want a new soldering iron :lol:

 

Weller is a good brand but pricey if you don't use it often but they would have my recommendation.

 

 

Just bought a 40 watt one from Radio Shack....

 

 

I am practicing a bit and got it down :) Speakers and factory equip stuff I don't like soldering because if I sell the car then its kinda fubared... So for speakers I will pay the extra few bucks and get the clips...

Edited by greengiant912

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Don't you know how to desolder :P haha.

 

Its up to you, everyone is different. :happy:

Are you replacing stocks?

 

Can't wait to see some before after pics, don't damage your dash pulling the old unit.

 

 

I was going to replace them with some old Infinity References I had from my old car back in high school. I found them in the garage but unfortunately a few of them were damaged, one the cone was making funny noises, and the other had a tweeter that broke off :( I guess that is what I get for just leaving them sit in the garage lol... I had a Kappa Perfect subwoofer that I blew back in high school too lol, that is still sitting in there...

 

I do want to get a decent set of speakers, not to sure about if I will throw a sub in it.. I don't want insane bass if I do, just the good bass lol :P

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Well be sure to remove the stock gm crappy mounts. Don't damage them tho so you can put it back in for resell and then make/buy mdf spacers.

Screw them down, seal them off and don't worry bout deadening new gm cars (holden at least) have well sealed and deadened doors.

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