Crow47 Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) I bought a Logitech z-560 4.1 system from a friend today, and I got it cheap. Why? Because the sub rattles! It's not that bad, just kind of distracting. He turned it up too loud apparently, and this is what it is doing. So I bought it. To me it just sounds like the cone has separated from the casing or whatever. I'd like to get in there and see what's going on. Is there anything I should know before I try to take the back off this thing? Would pictures help? Any advice would help! Thanks! To be clear, the sub works, and it produces sound. Just rattles... Edited February 4, 2009 by Crow47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrewr05 Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 I would take off the speaker grill first before I compromised the integrity of the enclosure by ripping it apart. Look for anything loose, rips, tears, separations etc.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow47 Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) I thought of that, and I took a flash light and looked through the grill but couldn't see anything that looked liked it would be wrong. However, I did notice screws securing the cone to the case, so that looks like easier access through that... *edit* I found this video that looks like it'll tell me how to take off the grill. Does anybody know what might be causing the rattle? Edited February 4, 2009 by Crow47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a93j202k Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Does anybody know what might be causing the rattle? Honestly, any loose part inside the sub woofer might be causing the rattling. Not to be pessimistic, but you might have hard time finding the source of the noise. Good luck though! Hope you find the problem somewhere simple to fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy_Nate Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Well, take out the subwoofer, look at the bracing, the area around where the speaker is mounted, all the screws, etc. You can give it a gentle shake or tap on things. Just be careful not to pull out the wiring (attached to the speaker). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_bowtie Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 you can take the speaker out and run it to see if the voice coil isnt blown... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow47 Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) you can take the speaker out and run it to see if the voice coil isnt blown... Ok, I was thinking about that, but I was afraid of electrocuting myself (I honestly don't know the electrics of this thing). Yeah I'm just gonna look around. Yeah, after looking around inside, my guess is that it is the voice coil. Any idea how much this would cost to repair? Edited February 4, 2009 by Crow47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedEuphoria Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 just buy a new sub for car audio and wire it in. Subs do rattle when they are "blown". Try and get one that has the same power rating as the one that was there(prob the lowest you can find and single voice coil). If your unsure of which wire is positive and negative, just hook it up, it will work either way. But when hooked up backwards it will be drowned out, if you switch the wires it will be instantly noticeable that its the correct way or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ordinary Gui Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 this sometimes happens when the cone warps due to pushing it to hard like you said. most of the time there is nothing that can be done beside getting a new sub because it has changed shape and will never be the same. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 Make sure before you replace the current driver that you check it's impedance. I have no idea what the standard impedance of the Logitech subs are but I'd assume it's probably a SVC 4 Ohm driver. Any relatively efficient small-box driver that's meant for ported use would work fine as long as you match it properly to the amp. I wouldn't worry about the phase relationship between the sub and the mains though, they don't play with enough of an overlap to make much of a difference either way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
airman Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) Make sure before you replace the current driver that you check it's impedance. I have no idea what the standard impedance of the Logitech subs are but I'd assume it's probably a SVC 4 Ohm driver. Any relatively efficient small-box driver that's meant for ported use would work fine as long as you match it properly to the amp. I wouldn't worry about the phase relationship between the sub and the mains though, they don't play with enough of an overlap to make much of a difference either way. small subs are typically 4 ohm or 8ohm. i've seen some 4"-6" subs in computer speakers that were 8ohm, but definitely all single voice coil. i highly doubt any SINGLE sub put into an application such as computer speakers would be any other than SVC. the only way to find out is to look at it...2 wires going to it generally means single voice coil. use a digital multimeter to find out it's impedance, or resistance. as far as finding it's rating (RMS), it's probably on the website or possibly printed on the speaker itself, although i doubt the latter would be the case. edit: now thinking about it, a blown speaker may report an inaccurate reading of it's impedance. if it's something far away from 4 or 8, then i may result to checking manufacturer specs. Edited February 4, 2009 by airman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waco Posted February 4, 2009 Posted February 4, 2009 edit: now thinking about it, a blown speaker may report an inaccurate reading of it's impedance. if it's something far away from 4 or 8, then i may result to checking manufacturer specs. If it still plays it probably just has coils that have separated from the former. If that's the case it'll read the same as normal it'll just sound like absolute poo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now