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Lontek

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  1. I would pull the RAM out again and blow the slots out good with compressed air. A dust bunny may have gotten between the contacts and the memory slots. Hope you get it working again.
  2. Hi, Be sure to find out what motherboard is in the unit and get the current chipset drivers for that Mainboard. Sometimes on a new Windows install,Windows will provide good enough drivers to make everything work--kinda well. I find that the often overlooked current chipset driver can be one of the biggest performance enhancers on a fresh install. Perhaps you did that already, but it is easy to miss. I have had installs where everything went well, but when all was said and done the unit just seemed a little slow or not quite right. I discovered I hadn't installed the mainboard's proper chipset driver, after doing that,, noticeable gains. PS- Yes, some OEM install's will check the hibernate box by default as you suspected. What made me wonder was when you said regarding tha laptop that the power button was the only way of waking the unit. That sounded like hibernation to me so I just recommended double checking,, which no doubt you have. Happy puting.
  3. In my experience (7 years pro IT department--tons of PC builds) hibernate is very bad. Standby mode not so bad--although I rarely use standby either. Hibernate usually needs something severe to wake it up again such as pressing the power button and lot's of hoping. Standy mode is usually much better and usually only requires wiggling the mouse to re-activate. Personally if it were me I would look into unchecking the hibernate box in "power options" in the control panel but leaving on the stand by feature for whatever time you decide. I could be wrong, but I have a sneakin hunch that "standby" is not your issue,, but rather the sucky "hibernate" is your issue. Additionally, they probably won't be able to tell the difference between stand by mode and hibernate, thus it will look the same to them. Happy puting
  4. Hi, A lot of things can potentially cause those symptoms BUT if they continue after a new install of Vista then I would suspect that some hardware drivers are not the best/compatible versions. Many people when installing an OS just allow Windows to find all the drivers for the Mobo/Hardware etc. And while Windows often does a compendable job of this, it is often very important to install the mainboard drivers that came with the Mainboard or are on the Mainboard manufacturers website. If the symptoms end after a fresh Vista install then you probably had some corrupt or infected code on your system. Happy puting!
  5. If you have process questions: A very good site to get acquanted with. http://www.liutilities.com/products/wintas...processlibrary/
  6. It is a cool idea but they use DDR2 533 memory for the Intels and DDR 400 for the AMD's. To me this is not a "Apples to Apples" comparison. If they are truly trying to compare the CPU's and not the whole setup then the setups should be as close as possible the same. This could have been a really cool test and some really cool information if they would have used a closer setup. The way they did the RAM just makes it a big waste of time in my opinion. Don't get me wrong, I am not anti-Intel although I do tend to favor the AMD chips but I have a real problem with that "comparison" because to me it wasn't all that fair to the AMD's beacause of the RAM inconsistency. For example: At work I have a Intel P4 @ 3Ghz but it has PC 2100 (266MHZ) RAM. (3 sticks of 256MB PC2100) At home I have a AMD Barton 2600+ Mobile overclocked to 2300MHZ. BUT I have a stick of 512 PC2700 and a stick of 512 PC3200 in it. My AMD can beat my work (Intel) machine using Super PI benchmarks,, but so what? Until my work machine can have at least PC 2700 RAM in it, the test is meaningless. Just ranting my opinion. :-)
  7. Hi, Points well taken,, although my point wasn't meant to be so technical but simply to point out that some IP's are not remote configurable. As far as your statement about not needing to be registered with a DNS server, I stand by that. When you type in a URL,, that name has to be "registered" on the NET. Perhaps my verbage was not "exact" regarding "DNS server" but somewhere along the line these DNS servers have to understand what name or IP you typed in. I appreciate your clarification regarding DHCP and the local ISP. You are correct and I should have known that. NAT was not the proper term. It is obvious that you have a deep understanding of networking but sometimes keeping things as simple as possible is more helpful. It might be impressive to read your response but will the original person who asked the question understand it? Perhaps, perhaps not. Of course, as you pointed out to me in your post, it would be good for me to be accurate. When I made the comment with the 192.xxx.xxx.xxx number in it . I did not want to get into a big explanation regarding those numbers so I intentially left it simple as that wasn't the direct issue regarding the question. I mean one could go on and on regarding what IP devices generally give out in DHCP etc. But I was trying to keep it simple. I suppose I could have just asked : Do you have a routable ip? But alas! That could have got people responding as well, because most IP's are "routable" depending on the context of that phrase. Routable from a LAN? Routable from a WAN? or the Internet? At any rate hopefully people who read this thread will find it helpful or at least a bit interesting. Happy computing!
  8. Does she have a static IP from her ISP? (one that is registered with a internet DNS server) My guess is she does not. Most people get Dynamic IP's from a NAT router from their ISP. These generally are not remote configurable. If she has a 192.xxx.xxx.xxx or 172.xxx.xxx.xxx number it most likely is a dynamic NAT router generated number. Your possiblities will be quite limited. When you send out a request to connect to another device on the internet that device needs to be "registered" or have a "Static IP" device. Otherwise it will never find the device. For example: When I set up my home network I could give my devices just about any IP number I want. But those numbers are meaningless on the Internet unless they have been registered. It's sorta like having an unlisted number otherwise.
  9. Hey man, One thing to be careful about: Be sure you buy a Mobo that has the ability to set the Multi's. If you don't, you run a good chance of the board not recognizing the CPU and defaulting the speed to 600MHZ. This is one pitfall with the mobile processors. I know,, I just went through that. Additionally, if possible stay with a ATX standard form factor. I went with the mini-ATX and it really limits your choices of boards that have the multi settings. Once I got through these avoidable hassles, I really llike my desktop/ Mobile CPU rig. Athlon XP 2600+ Mobile @2.5 GHZ.
  10. Tried it about a year ago and didn't care for it. But I gave it a try again about 2-3 months ago, and now I am very impressed overall. I have put it on as the default browser on 3 of my home PC's and I use it as my default work PC browser. I have even started to slowly introduce it to a few users at work as I often do the new computer system software setups. I have found it to be faster overall than IE6 and it has great pop-up management features as well. I also like how it gives the user the option to save login info for each site, very configurable. Letely I have also been installing it on some of the machines I do tech/consulting work on and I encourage the user to use it instead of IE6 as their main browser.
  11. Thanks for the tip Nemo. I believe I have found another one also: Biostar M7NCG 400 mainboard about 60 bucks at New Egg. If anyone has info on this board please feel free to add it to the thread. Thanks all. www.lontek.net
  12. Hi, I have an AMD Athlon XP 2600+ Mobile chip that I want to overclock. The mistake I made was that I bought an ABIT va-10 board that does not allow one to change the cpu multiplier. The board does not recognize the chip so it defaults it to 600 MGZ! OUCH! If if I jack the FSB all the way up in the bios I only get about 1500 MHZ. What I am looking for is a Mainboard that is MICRO ATX and has really nice overclocking bios features. And it's imperitive that it has multiplier change settings. Anyone know what a good board would be. What are others using? I know the Abit NF7-s would be a good board but it is ATX form factor. <b>Also does anyone know of a rescource on the web that actually describes a mainboard by the important features? <b> Most PC hardware sites (Even respectable sites like newegg and directron) desribe; this many PCI slots that much RAM -----BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH then you get to the bios decription and there is hardly any description!! How is a guy suppose to buy a mainboard if the seller doesn't even tell you what's important? For example: How high will it jack up the FSB? How high can you crank up the Multiplier so you can fry your CPU? How high will it let you smoke up the voltage? I am so sick af reading about "wake on LAN" "AC 97 Sound Codec" "supports plug and play" There must be a site that reviews the overclocking features of various mainboards. Please help in my mainboard "ignorance" Thanks.
  13. I have seen PC's restart after a power outage also. I had one that,, even if it were turned off, if we lost power then regained power the PC would boot up. Of course if you shut your PC down at the power strip this would be impossible.
  14. I'm so not jellin? I am not sure what that means except that it sounds like an insult.?? But at any rate thanks for the tip.
  15. That is one of the benefits of having the drive setup that way. A separate d drive allows you to work with the C drive while the d drive is seperate. ANYTIME you do major things to your hard drive file system you should back up your data though to CD or some other removable media. But technically speaking, whether you format the c drive to ntfs or fat32 you should still have access to the d drive. Technically speaking you should be able to format the c drive and install win 98 then format it again and install win 2000 then back to 98 then XP and so on without disturbing your D drive if you are careful. But I would have it all backed up if it is valuable to you. One thing to keep in mind though: Win 98 CANNOT read NTFS volumes at all. So if Win 98 is an option you better keep your d drive fat32.
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