SXRguyinMA

Thanks man, the real props go out to Rick Primeau and Rick mains that did the paint and airbrush work on this beast

Hey guys the only reason I'm not shipping overseas is because it'd probably be pretty expensive and I don't trust ANYONE to get a fully built computer overseas in one piece lol

damn typos lol. fixed $10 minimum donation guys! That's a STEAL for this rig!

Hey guys, I'm giving away my Arctic Cat build! I did the mod with the intention of giving it away for charity when I started it last year, and now it's done and the giveaway is live! All donations will go to the Huntington's Disease Society of America, as planned from day 1 of the mod. All the details and the donation form (PayPal) are on my website - just click the banner below! The minimum donation is only $10, which is an absolute STEAL for this rig! Check it out, donate and SHARE!!

If you guys liked my mod please go sign up at the CMS page and vote for me! Thanks!! http://showdown.newmodcity.com/final-round/

yea I ditched it when I realized I needed to space the rad out so far as it was. If I didn't need to have it out that far I would have put it on

Thanks man! I like the red as it helps break it up a bit Thanks!! Not sure what you mean about the mnpctech, I didn't use any of their stuff in this mod. The rust and weathering was done with an airbrush and red oxide paint from auto air colors Well Arctic Cat isn't done yet. The 5850 I've been using while my 6870 was in MS is going in Cat, then I've got a few details left to take care of and figure out the whole auctioning it off part I had thought about painting the rad actually, but I decided against it because I liked the look of the black being there. I may change it in the future, we'll see Thanks!!

Here's the final pics and video! Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5BsbkBxIk4

Minor update! I painted the CPU retention bracket to match the rest of the case I also got a pair of 12" UV cathodes installed the the side door. I ended up reusing the touch connector that came with the case for this. it simplifies the wiring a lot Next up I wired up 4 LEDs and hot-glued them into the top part of the front side window. The LEDs are all warm white colored. And it's now finished! But you'll have to wait until tomorrow for the good pics. In the meantime here's a few teaser shots

It's aliiiiiive!!!!! After doing the reflow procedure for the Indigo Extreme TIM Temps are VERY nice I'm getting ~34ºC idle and topping out at ~48ºC under Hyper Pi, OCCT and Prime95. All that's left to do is finish the coding and the wiring! Also, my coolant will be here this week, stay tuned

Another update I designed, etched and assembled the 2 circuit boards I'll be needing now that I'm only using 1 LCD. One board will house the ATMega328 and all it's associated components as well as have all the I/O pins for the accessories. The second board will mount to the LCD directly and allow me to use a 2x5 ribbon cable instead of the breadboard-friendly layout as the LCDs come. I used Fritzing to create the layouts and the PCBs. I started off by laying out everything in the breadboard view. I used that to create the PCB layouts as seen here. From the breadboard point to the ready-to-print PCB point was about 2 hours. This consisted of moving parts around the boards to get the best possible layout. Next I created etchable .pdf's (done with Fritzing) so I can print out the boards. You'll notice one side is mirrored. This is because when you transfer the image it'll come out oriented correctly. Here the boards are printed out and cut out. They are printed with a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper. The reason for this is that the toner, which is plastic, will not adhere to the inkjet photo paper. This will allow it to be transferred to the copper clad with an iron. Here are the top sides all transferred. Here I've drilled a set of holes and inserted pins through them. I use these pins to line up the back side traces for transferring. Fast forward a few steps and you've got a pair of freshly-etched and drilled boards ready for assembly! The blobby-ness on the traces is from a sharpie. If you get mostly good transfer but have a few little patches where it didn't stick you simply use a sharpie to draw it in. It works as an etch resist almost as good as the toner itself. And here we have the pair of completed boards. I still need to test these to make sure they're working 100% That's all for now!

I may add some supporting structure for those hoses, but as is they're not putting hardly any pressure at all on the VGA. The natural tension in the hoses themselves are actually keeping the assembly hovering above the card. Granted once the liquid is in that will change. I've got a neat idea in store for it though Thanks man!

Thanks, appreciate the feedback! Yes those clamps are for watercooling and they come in various sizes to fit various tubing. here's where I got them: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=32027

I put some zip ties on the PCI-e cables to clean them up a bit I also picked up these sweet aluminum hose clamps for all the 3/8" tubing. I wanted the same ones for the 1/4" but they were all out, so I got the standard plastic clamps I picked up this Bitspower radgrill for the rear fan But the green wasn't cutting it so I painted it to match the rest I also got a pair of Lian Li blank 5.25" drive covers and some military switches. I taped, marked, drilled and mounted everything The other holds a 16x2 LCD and a Bulgin button. I decided to go with a single LCD versus the 2 for simplicity's sake, and the fact that I only really needed one anyways. I also painted both panels to match as well. Now I figured I'd do something different with the 1/4" clear tubing for the RAM. I wanted them to do something rather than just be there. So I tried some different routing setups and settled on this one. I cut up some spare plexi I had laying around, sanded, drilled and painted, and here is the end result. This will look sick once the fluid is in there That's all for now. I've been working a lot with the coding for everything lately. All that's left to do really is finish the switch wiring, finish the airbrushing and integrate the flow meter into the coding one the system is up and running!

Thanks! Thanks fish